The Max

What Colin said. If you're going to go to the trouble of taking things apart to upgrade them, you may as well do it significantly better than the Bose stuff and for probably around the same cash if you look in the right places.

Probably the best way to use them. After all, it's only to stop that nasty chill when you initially sit on the bastards! After that, good old body warmth is enough - even farting if you feel you must disrespect your vehicle.

Zaino you say? Hmmm. Always happy to try something new if it's better.

A good conditioner. I use Meguiars Gold Class leather conditioner around three-four times a year and avoid the sun where possible. Otherwise, I just gauge it by how dry it looks and give it another whack.

No need to apologise, I'm just curious. It's the engineering nerd in me coming out.

Did you then flip your probes around the other way to see if you got a high resistance too? If so, then yes, you've likely hit a diode.

Best way to be sure would be to put an oscilloscope to one of the pins to see what voltages you see. If it's constant, then you're right, it's likely to be a purely resistive load. But if you see a pulse train of some sort, then chances are there's more to it than just a resistor, particularly if there's more than just two pins to the connector.

That's because it's a Nissan. Well, in reality, it's Siemens-VDO but details, details.

If it can do all the Consult 3+ can do for a 2009 model vehicle, then it seems to be the frugal way to go, considering it only costs 10% of what the 3+ does.

I should mention I bought mine back in 2012, so prices are likely to have changed.

Consult 3+ or higher is the safe approach. I paid about $1500 or so for mine from Ali Baba, which is an exact replica of the Consult 3+ and comes with the Nissan software. Works great and has been an invaluable tool for me given I once needed to reset my steering angle sensor as well as a few diagnostic trouble codes brought on by my remote starter module. It is only reliable on a Windows XP OS. It is unstable on Windows 7, so unless there's a release newer than v15.12 out there to be downloaded, that's the only downside. Links etc can be found in another thread in this forum. I'm on a mobile and at work so I'll leave the searching to you.

Oh, you mean there's another rubber piece in that compartment near the cable entry rubber boot which I'm not remembering about?

What do you mean remove the rubber bung? The rubber cover sitting over the grommet is what's supposed to keep water from leaking down there. It might be worth checking it for any defects, especially if an aftermarket amp has been installed and someone has just jammed the power cable through it without properly sealing it or breaking the grommet clips and not replacing the grommet accordingly. I should know. I broke mine in the process of unclipping it but I can safely say that an intact grommet makes an excellent seal because of how well it squeezes down the rubber ring under it.

That GT emblem just doesn't look right to me. Each to their own. I'll stick to the Infiniti logo.

And in my opinion, you just mentioned a misnomer right there, the misnomer being "perfectly good". I've thrown my V36 around a fair bit and I can safely say that the KU31 tyres are absolutely lacking in grip. So often did my traction control trigger turning corners where even my crappy boat of a BA wagon wouldn't break traction (with Pilot Sport 3 tyres too). Even a near 90 degree bend at 50km/h has me screeching whereas my Pilot Sport 3 set up maintains excellent grip. While you have obviously had better luck with them, my experiences prevent me from having anything positive to say about them for the spirited driver. It was the first time I've ever used any Kumho tyre and it was on the recommendation of my compliance guy three years ago. Never again. As for all your other points, except for #10 since I'm not from Queensland, I agree!

Oh! Why did you only get the Vision and not the Extreme series?

See his post in #12 above. Philips Xtreme.

I thought he mentioned that in the last line of his last post?

And while we're talking about parking brakes, despite having had them professionally adjusted, I still don't have a lot of confidence in the grip of the parking brakes. I'm going to take the rears off and inspect them soon but I'm thinking it might be worth considering a better pad or at least a new set in the event they're just worn away from perhaps a careless previous owner who drove with them on for a bit now and then?

Poor thing.

I think so. If they were able to find my 2009 V36 in their system back in 2012, I see no reason why they couldn't find yours. They do list them as 370GT in my policy. Did he try to search for it under that?

Yep. Nothing worse than creating ground loops. Then you will definitely have noisy power.

No argument there. I just don't believe it applies to all components, particularly the minor ones, unless you're talking about a bloody Ford.

Not sure I agree with that comparison. Your greatest impediment in the intake path is the filter, not the pipework. With your cables being additional pipework, poking more points of air entry into your intake by means of more pipes won't do a thing if you still have that impediment in the path. With your grounding, unless you have corrosion/rust at any of your existing ground points (akin to a resistive air filter), those electrons aren't going to flow any differently when the minimum requirements are met. This is much like the debate about Monster Cable vs regular/more affordable oxygen free copper cable. They both push along electrons. The question is, does one do it so much better over the other? Will that extra 0.01V in a nominal 13.8V system really make that solenoid actuate that much better? My professional opinion, no. Therefore, we'll have to agree to disagree on this one. If, like Monster Cable users out there, you perceive a difference, then by all means enjoy. For anyone else thinking about it, take all the information on board and if you're still keen to experiment with it in the name of science, go for it. Be your own judge.

Unequivocally true. What people don't realise is that good grounding is important in any low voltage application, particularly where high current is required where greater current results in greater voltage drops across poor resistance (such as for solenoids, actuators, etc) as well as digital electronics, where noise can be catastrophic to the operation of the engine management and surrounding electronics. I truly believe if the grounding really was subpar, our vehicles would suffer. Just because there's an OEM kit in the market doesn't necessarily mean it's there to resolve an issue. It could very well be that Nissan realised there's a market for such placebo items and it would be remiss of them not to cash in on it too. Why not?