The Max

I think that's where I have a difference of opinion with them. In upgrading the fronts only, I believe you're messing with the balance of the vehicle's braking system. But then again, if you don't drive like a maniac, then perhaps it will be sufficient.

Why not the 4000 series? Way better longevity.

A very large penis.

That's what threw me too but I figure Nissan have a better idea than they do. The measurements are the same, I've checked that, so it's all good as far as I'm concerned.

Correct. No idea if the 2009 SPs ever came out with Brembo calipers but mine are definitely Akebono. Honestly, like I've said before, I use red because I'm an arsehole of a driver (not a late braker though)! Lately this year, with more cops around, I'm seeing myself driving at less nutty speeds, so the greens might be the reasonable answer again. Oh, so even the SP sedans use the same smaller brakes?

For the Sport version as well? I can understand if it's the non-sport but when I look at my copy of the EBC catalogue, it seems to suggest that it's the same pad for both the G37S and the 370Z (14" brake rotor size), whereas the non-sport version has a 13" brake rotor size. For what it's worth, I use the EBC RedStuff DP31823C in the front and DP31824C in the rear. Shortly I'm going to be replacing my OEM discs though as I noticed yesterday on the freeway that they've warped somewhat.

Can't help you with the sticky dash as mine seems to have survived well, though it is a 2009 model. As for your flashing AFS, chances are it's because of the headlight modification to comply with ADRs. My advice for the moment is to switch off AFS to avoid any potential damage to the motors which move your headlights around for turning corners and dipping. Then, check inside the headlamp assembly (from the rear, that is, so you'll need to pop the cap off, etc). Check to see if the original HID lamp fittings are still sitting inside. My guess is that they are and that's why the motors are jamming and therefore, the vehicle's smarts are switching off the system and alerting you to an issue. If you don't plan on converting them back to HID, then just drive with AFS off in case you do change your mind later on. Otherwise, do what I did and reverse the modification so that you can use those HID lamps again and enjoy a much brighter headlight system. I specifically asked my compliance workshop to ensure the modification was reversible, so hopefully the ones who complied your vehicle ensured they left enough cable behind on the ballasts to be able to reconnect to them and revert it all back to factory. Good luck. Those headlight assemblies are a bitch to get to.

Dude, it's not good manners to post the same question in more than one thread. Ask once, people will respond. Truly.

Was it cheaper getting them in from the US than it was buying locally?

Android.

About four years too late. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332357-v36-skyline-japanese-translation-document-work-in-progress/

More accurately, Japan decommissioned analogue in March 2012, so any vehicle manufactured up until then (if not slightly earlier), would have an analogue tuner. Thereafter, I'd expect them to have DVB-T receivers but nevertheless, the colour system that Japan uses is completely different to Australia (NTSC vs PAL) so even if it did receive our channels, there's the possibility that the receiver doesn't function as a multistandard unit anyway. It's not an expensive exercise to make it multisystem but we're talking about motor vehicle manufacturers here. Nonetheless, your recommendation is the best one but I don't watch any FTA TV at home, so I'm happy just screen mirroring from my mobile phone instead for the GPS or the occasional live webstream.

I guess doing a little homework here on this site is a very rude expectation. Updates (as in English conversions) - information is here (second from the top of the thread list): http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421465-v36-nav-and-language-swap-faq/ and if you used the search box in the top right corner just using the letters "TV", here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436316-japanese-to-english-conversion-for-v36-oem-swap/ In short, language conversion is difficult and expensive. TV conversion is not feasible, better to consider an external unit plugged into the car's AV sockets in the centre console. For the rest, do some searching and reading like the rest of us. It's not as difficult as the conversions.

Ah, OK, that makes a little more sense. It does look good, without a doubt but it's still too impractical on Sydney roads at least. You'll be forever snaking your way over speed humps at a snail's pace. I'd aim for a finger's gap between the top of the tyre and lip, for practicality's sake. Also, if you think it's going to improve handling around bends significantly, keep in mind you already have 4WAS on this beast. If I can navigate 90km/h bends at 180km/h on factory height, you'll only be a little tighter around them by comparison. If you're going to throw it around the track, then it makes sense to do what you plan on. But if it's just to drive around town (and flirt with the law every now and then), the benefits are far outweighed by the impracticality. Not trying to shatter dreams here. Just giving food for though. That and I just don't like being stuck behind vehicles that take years to navigate over speed humps because they dropped the thing too damn low.

What kept you?

Any lower and you may as well keep it on the track full time. Totally impractical over any speed humps. Anyway, if it makes you happy, scraped undercarriage and all, that's all that matters.

Bugger. The only vibration I get is when I apply the brakes at high speeds. Then again, I do drive like an arsehole. You'd want to be careful though because those vibrations carry through to other hardware in the chain that will prematurely wear or fail as a result. It's not just about what's happening at your steering wheel.

For what it's worth, it's not entirely impossible. Mine is a 2009 model, had 22,000km on the clock when I imported it beginning of 2012 and I'm only up to 37,846km after owning it for three years. Just depends on the use it gets.

Just giving credit where it's due. Forums are handy for informing people of whom to avoid but rarely are they used for who is recommended. How badly are they buckled? They can't be reset at all?

Just thought I'd chime in and give major credit to AsM for being a pleasure to do business with. If he ever has anything else to sell you, what you see is what you'll definitely get without any mucking around. I'm still not sure about the rims being black - very good paintjob though! Even if I do repaint them to OEM spec, it's still going to work out cheaper than buying a new set from the dealership! Many thanks AsM.

I think he meant 20-digit PIN code as opposed to the 5-digit PIN code. Functionally, no difference. It's just a matter of how it's achieved with the appropriate scan tool.

It's not about whether or not we like it (to be honest, I don't). As long as they look good to you, that's all that matters.

I don't think it compares because with Commonwhore to Chev thing. It's basically going from shit to shite.

If all else fails, use a freight forwarder like ShipItTo or PriceUSA. Don't use Australia Post's "Shopmate" though. Too expensive and they wash their hands clean when things go wrong because they've subcontracted Singapore Post to do the work for them.

Hah! Got to love the simplest of things. Much like a loose heat shield problem a friend of mine had with his car - sounded like it was pinging at a certain load.