The Max

Here's the thing though. You're feeding a balanced audio signal into an amp which likely only took unbalanced audio and at probably vastly different impedances too. If not properly matched, you will get the hiss/white noise you referred to. That has nothing to do with how Bose manipulate the audio through their built-in DSP. Sometimes you can get away with grounding the cold phase of a balanced signal directly but sometimes, if the impedance is way off, you need to use transformers (baluns) or active matching, which is what you've essentially achieved by using the Audison Bit.One, as I believe that also supports balanced and unbalanced inputs. But then the EQ'ing and delays that they introduce to suit their speakers, I agree, you then need to use your own DSP to counteract all that so that you can flavour it to the aftermarket speakers you've decided on, as they'll have different characteristics. The Audison Bit.One is a pretty good unit, so you definitely did well there but that's the nature of adapting things that weren't necessarily made to be adapted. Again, in my opinion, to do the sound right, all audio systems (home, professional and mobile) require DSPs to squeeze out the most performance out of your rig. I can't imagine not using a DSP in any scenario, personally.

What kind of processor? Neither system is terribly clean but by design, the Bose should be cleaner as it feeds the OEM amp in the boot with a balanced line level signal. With a good DSP, it should be able to take advantage of that balanced feed and therefore significantly reduce any analogue issues. If you tried to just feed those line level signals straight into an aftermarket amp without any balanced to unbalanced matching transformers at least, if not a well-designed DSP, then I'm not surprised you got the noise. Anyway, for my ears, all car audio systems ideally need some kind of DSP. Just a couple of tone and bass controls doesn't cut the mustard. Not all speakers are created equal, nor are amps, nor are the sources. Only when you have that detailed level of control will you squeeze the most out of it all and probably end up running it cleaner which means less abuse of your speakers. Mine has a very slight DC offset, which gives a little white noise as a consequence. I could design a line driver which would process the DC offset out of the speaker leads but it's only noticeable at low volumes and I barely run mine below moderate.

Typical behaviour of most vehicles. Put a voltmeter/multimeter across your battery terminals while the car is running and check voltage. You should be seeing around 14.4V. If it's under 14V, I'd be concerned. If you find it doesn't output much more when you're revving at around 2500RPM, it's gone for sure.

From my own perception, the Bose system does indeed sound better than the Clarion system. That said, though reasonably better than my BA wagon's crap, I consider both versions to be shite anyway. However, as I outlined in my write up on upgrading one's sound system in a V36, for the sake of making the installation an easier process, it is better to get a vehicle with the Bose system so that you can minimise rewiring in the vehicle if you decide to run split component speakers front and rear, unless you aim to push huge amounts of power, that is.

This thread needs an update after yesterday's discovery. I had my Samsung Note 4 repaired and this meant the OS was updated from the old v4.4.4 (KitKat) to v6.0.1 (Marshmallow). Sadly, it seems my recommended box will connect to the IP address but will not receive the RTSP video stream. Pain in the arse. So, I've made contact with the manufacturer in China and asked about a firmware update. I'm not holding my breath. Some are suggesting it only supports up to v5.0 but they could be old listings. I will report back with the answer I get from China and any results if there is a firmware update that I can perform on the unit. In which case, the only other option might be to install an MHL cable that breaks out the microUSB to the respective RCA plugs and USB A connector for simultaneously charging the phone. I was hoping to stick with a wireless solution but this may be the final nail in the coffin. Let's see. I've ordered the cable from China as a backup measure before Christmas, as I will be doing a bit of driving out of town for the holidays. While the voice guidance from an open source app in the Google Play store seems to work well for my audio setup (via the Bluetooth-connected phone audio, rather than media audio), it's still nice to have a visual guide to glance at every now and then.

Where did you get those figures from? These guys are claiming it's 336kW. http://www.caradvice.com.au/399177/2017-infiniti-q60-coupe-spied-without-disguise/

Looks like after busting balls a little more, Nissan Australia (Melbourne) got back to my guy at Steve Jarvin and they do have a trim assembly, which is basically the seat without the frame. It's just a matter of unclipping the old seat from the existing frame and clipping the new one on in its place. Hopefully they're right because it's a $1080 mistake if they get it wrong for me. Still, I'm pretty chuffed to hear about that and I can finally restore Max Jr back to normal. Let's see what happens when it finally arrives in a few months (sea freight).

Getting the struts out isn't the problem. It'll be the annoying error light in your dash that will piss you off because it's nagging at you that you have them both disconnected. That's where you need a couple of plugs which have little electronic modules within (which I have yet to see for myself and inspect) to fool the system into thinking they're plugged in and ready to go. I believe this is becoming a standard feature worldwide. My European buddies tell me a lot more modern vehicles are made curvier and with all these fancy features in the interest of pedestrian safety, reducing the risk of them flying through your windscreen, etc. I can't say I agree with the practice but there you go.

Front looks good, rear looks good but at the side view, it looks cheap. I think it's the chrome edging around the windows. Not because I own one but I prefer the look of my 2009 V36 over that. It just seems classier. Otherwise, a twin-turbo 3L pumping out around 336kW, yes please!!

You could always ask a dealer for a quote. As for the parts, if you can score them from a wrecked vehicle, you could be in luck but I wouldn't know the probability of that. In which case, grab the part number pertaining to your series and search for it on Google, particularly from Amayama, who seem to be a pretty good source for Jap parts. Failing that, your dealership's spare parts division would be the only other way. Having recently resolved a problem with having to replace my rear seat, I've found the price from Amayama and the price from Steve Jarvin's spare parts division works out to be pretty much even. I'd rather pay a small percentage more with the local guys, if nothing else, to kick their arse if they got it wrong despite my best description and triple-checking with them.

That's the pre-2009 model front bar. From 2009 onwards, you got the one that you have usually seen.

Unfortunately, those things are like airbags. It's a one-time deal. You need to replace them with new ones. I'm contemplating unplugging mine and replacing them with little adapters that keep the BCM happy. May not be the legally appropriate thing to do but I don't have a heart to care enough.

There's definitely nothing for them to debate. They admitted themselves that it was working before they started working on it and it ceased to work after their job was completed. Ergo, they broke it. While there is a slim possibility that the system could fail on its own through a component failure but the timing of the events makes it a bit more than coincidental.

Well done! At least you've got proof that it was working before they got their mitts on it. That definitely places responsibility with them. Keep us posted on it. My guess is still just a simple matter of them not having reconnected some electronics back but hopefully they haven't mechanically busted something in the process. Either way, the problem is theirs to solve out of their own pocket, whether it's them doing the work or calling on an outsider to help them out.

When a dash has to come out for that sort of thing, it's easy for them to mess something up if they're not careful. Sounds to me like the mixer motor is either disconnected or jammed in one position. My guess, the dash needs to come out again. Man, dashboards are a pain in the arse to pull out. Thankfully I was able to leave mine in place while I pulled out every other panel working on the AV system. Good luck dude.

It will be marginally cheaper, however, the problem may possibly be that the caustic Damp Rid may still be lurking in the foam padding and if it is, it'll just destroy that leather trim as well. I'm thinking of checking out some local wreckers for any reasonably pristine candidates but failing that, I'll be looking for something new, albeit with the massive expense in shipping the damn thing.

Apologies for resurrecting this thread but for the sake of relevance, I'm sticking to it! So it turns out Nissan in Melbourne finally got back to my contact and advised that a complete rear bottom seat assembly is no longer in production. I'm having a very hard time believing that for a seven year old vehicle, personally. I'm thinking of going through Amayama and see if they have better luck than I do. Anyone have any experiences with Amayama they'd like to share with me before I go forking out close to $2k for a seat?

Same as mine, as expected. Either solution will work for you. The key is to keep it neat, use heatshrink wherever soldering is required and be sure to properly tie off any excess cabling to prevent any unwanted vibrations against the interior components. If you also cop the nasty scrolling feint lines across the screen because of ground loops, be sure to use an isolation transformer (75 ohm impedance).

Any other limitations, as in what year models he can do this to, how long the work takes, is it just a drop-in replacement or rewire job?

With that TV box already in place, it sounds like you've had all the hard work already taken care of for you. As you said, a pity you're changing cars though.

Personally, yes, I do still recommend the device. It's by no means the best thing since sliced bread. After all, it's still using composite video output, but it's definitely usable. To answer the rest respectively: Hard to say. How clever are you at following a workshop manual or some write ups in forums about pulling out a few pieces of your interior? For me, it's a piece of cake. For someone else, it might be a bitch. I can only speak for my auto transmission '09, where there is a little grommet at the back of the centre console pocket. That's where I've passed my wires through. I probably should've taken some photos to demonstrate this. Can't do that for another month and a half though. However, I should note, I've only passed the AV cables through that grommet. The power cable doesn't plug into my cigarette lighter socket, as that is already occupied by my low profile dual-USB power adaptor. Instead, I've hardwired my unit from behind the cigarette lighter socket. Out of sight, out of mind. Not the two units I assessed. They both require 12V DC. You could certainly just plug it all in and leave it all sitting inside the console pocket but man that would look seriously ugly and take up otherwise precious space. You don't need access to the unit once it's all set up anyway, so my advice would be to put a little pride in your work, remove the centre console and neatly install it. That's the next step. I ordered it long ago but never got around to installing it. Once I get back home, I have a bit of time up my sleeve, so I might actually make the effort to install it. I can safely say, if you are not confident about taking the vehicle's dash apart nor experienced with slightly fragile ribbon cables, you will not manage the installation of the mimicsX2 on your own and could very well damage something in the process. Not trying to be a condescending dick about it all. I know it seems that way in text but that's the reality of installing these devices in the least obtrusive way.

You didn't Google that well after all. Google searches revealed it is indeed a "winker position system", which basically modifies how your indicators perform, with different flash rates and if fitted with aftermarket indicators, even different colours. A very Japanese kind of mod but I'm more disgusted by the wiring itself. Get an auto sparkie to trace the wiring, remove it and restore the connections back to their factory state, if it irks you. I know I wouldn't want it.

That's very Merc'ish of Nissan! Wow.

To break down your questions then: 1) I'd leave the transmission fluid alone. It's intended to never be changed anyway but if you're feeling paranoid, it's going to be seriously expensive compared to all other fluids. If nothing else, just inspect the fluid for anything out of the ordinary, likewise with the diff and power steering. Otherwise, just do the brake, engine and coolant, which will be somewhere around the $130 mark off the top of my head along with an oil filter (based on around $70 for 6L of Penrite full synthetic, $30 for coolant and the rest on the oil filter and a bottle of brake fluid). If air filters need replacing as well, budget for another $60 or so. I got a couple Fram ones off eBay. While I was at it, I bought a cabin air filter for another $20 or so. 2) Unless you heard something weird with the timing chain and need to do some work there (or if the vehicle is exhibiting leaks or temperature issues), I see no reason to change the water pump as a preventative maintenance thing. These motors haven't been flagged as having any known issue where you need to replace them at 100,000km. 3) Spark plugs, of course. Budget for around $180 for platinums again. 4) Pre-purchase inspections typically range from around $300-$400 depending on who's providing the service, so budget for that and hopefully you'll be pleasantly surprised instead.

The fact you have the evidence there that the vehicle has had its odometer wound back is enough to go back to them with a price suitable for a vehicle with 120,000km and only serviced twice, when I would've preferred four times (i.e. every 10,000km instead of 5,000km). The truth might hurt them but it is what it is. Furthermore, nice old couple or not, I would report the vehicle to whichever site they've advertised it on with this evidence so that they adjust their ad accordingly, to prevent someone else getting sucked in. It's unfortunate for them but they can't reasonably expect someone else to pay for their lack of diligence by offloading it under such dishonest circumstances. It is what it is.