The Max

The VQ37HR is a high compression engine and is built for 98RON. Don't cheap out on your fuel. Be sure to use the very consistent BP Ultimate.

The fact is, it doesn't need to come down in order to open the door, as it doesn't sit deep in the body to begin with. There's enough flex to account for such a situation and not do damage. Otherwise, imagine how many would be locked out of their vehicles due to a flat battery. It wouldn't be a clever design.

I believe the touchscreen panel is a 4-wire serial but that's the last step in the homework I intend to do and develop some kind of sharing switch for, in the event that I want to use the touchscreen to dial a number on the handsfree (rarely the case). I don't have anything about the video resolution, though I assume being from Japan, it will be the typical NTSC-J standard, which is still 525 lines, 60Hz refresh. Even if the converter you find only does NTSC-M, the only significant difference is the colour temperature in which it operates (9300K vs 6500K). Not really a big deal when you're going to be displaying maps on it.

No internet connection available for our AV systems dude. That's just the way it is. While I'm not inspired by CDDB for anything, I'm actually building my own navigation and music source in a little Gigabyte i7 NUC (hand-sized mini computer), which will have a Garmin GPS antenna plugged into it. The external DAC will plug into one of the other USB ports to convert to decent analogue audio to feed into the Aux input in my console, while the HDMI feed will be converted through a composite video converter (a quality one though) to feed the video Aux input. Then the next step will be to adapt the touchscreen's serial output to feed the NUC as a mouse, effectively. That should complete my navigation and audio solution. I've had enough of Mirrorlink devices to connect to mobile phones because quite frankly, mobile phones shit the bed too often, battery issues arise, etc. So yes, it will then be possible to have internet connectivity in my car to take advantage of. :)

Yeah, more money wasted to the tune of around US$700 or so. Worst part is not being able to find them in the usual places. Good thing is, I've found out what EEPROM they use and my programmer can definitely deal with it. It's going to be a busy weekend.

Scratch that. No idea what the guys in the UK were smoking about their R35. Seems that in my situation, there is a pop-up hood module, similar to the SRS airbag module, which stores permanent crash data. That means I need to find where the module is located, which is a bit difficult to identify from the Japanese parts catalogue. Unlike the SRS module, which is on the drivetrain tunnel under the armrest, the pop-up module is located somewhere near the back seat, on either side of it. I'm dreading having to dismantle half the vehicle to find the damn thing. Once out, I'll reset the EEPROM living in it and that'll be that. If I can't be bothered taking the car apart for that thing, I'll just live with the warning lamp. It's a retarded how difficult they've made it to be cleared after repairs.

Well, you guys were right. It is a part substitution. Works just fine. Unfortunately, I'm still getting a current state error on the pop up hood, so I need to figure out which sensor works with that and is the dud.

I know, right? I wish I knew about these guys before I bought my Infiniti wheel centrecaps from Infiniti Parts Online. I would've paid about 1/3rd of the price after shipping. Oh well.

That was the response from Partsouq as well. It's just concerning that information on part JK00A is in abundance (and listed on most of the major suppliers' sites) but nothing on the JK06A. I didn't get a chance to do it last night but I'll do a wire-by-wire comparison by the weekend, to be sure that the pins are all there to support all wires, as I've yet to come across a single vehicle which has unused wires in its harness. Meanwhile, Infiniti Parts Online got back to me and they claim that their systems strictly have the JK00A listed as being currently available and replaces an older unit JA80A. I'm hoping that it is an undocumented replacement as Rusty suggested. Aside from that, I'm very impressed by how quick these Partsouq guys are. As long as this story finishes up with a happy ending then I'll probably be very comfortable to deal with them again. Thanks gents!

I did take a closer look at some photos of other JK00A units and I can say that in comparison, this JK06A is missing a couple of pins. That said, I see in the G37 FSM that those pins aren't used anyway but of course, that's taking a USDM manual into consideration rather than a JDM, so there may well be some bits which will still suffer from this. I'll check later tonight when I get home and see if there are any actual wires in the harness leading to these missing pins. That, and I'll wait to hear back from the fellas in Dubai. Meanwhile, I've also shot an email to the guys at Infiniti Parts Online to see what their take is on those two part numbers. Hopefully you're on the money with what you've suggested. Otherwise, I'm going to have an interesting battle with the UAE and possibly spark a war that will get Russia's attention.

I'll add my two cents to this now. I got all my bits and pieces in yesterday, which is a pretty solid effort considering I ordered everything on Thursday. However, I'm disappointed in the fact that I've received a different part number for the IPDM. Instead of 284B7-JK00A, I've received a 284B7-JK06A. I've asked them for an explanation as to why I didn't get the JK00A part number, since that is still current according to Infinitipartsonline.com. We'll see what they come back with. Physically, the units look the same, in terms of fuse ratings, placement, relays, connectors but the concern is the CPU may be different and the worst thing is, I can't even land much information when performing a Google search on it, unlike the JK00A original. Good thing I paid with PayPal. I can at least raise a dispute if this needs to be escalated.

I know I'm a bit late to this party but since people have been nice enough to help me out with a question earlier this week, I thought I'd contribute to this one. Not sure if you've had any luck since but most certainly one of those wires going to the A/C and Instrumentation Amplifier will be your speed sensor. The only way to be truly sure though is to grab an oscilloscope and measure the waveform. I haven't got the FSM handy on my laptop but when stationary, the signal should either be constantly high or low and when in motion, you should see a pulse train that increases in frequency proportional to speed (you'd need to have the rear wheels up in the air or on a roller dyno of sorts to confirm this though). Basically, the pulses should start to pack together closer as speed increases. That's how you'd find it without any reliable documentation. It's similar to the park brake wire (also going to the same unit) I had to find for a device I built, where it wasn't in the place the FSM indicated, so I had to sniff it out with a multimeter and see which one changed between active low and high.

I did check out Amayama but they are actually more expensive than Partsouq and take a little longer to ship as well. That's why I thought the Partsouq guys were too good to be true on those two counts. I checked with Suttons Parts. They are just as useless as the Peter Warren guys. Either Nissan Australia no longer supplies its dealers with a worldwide database or these guys don't know where (or can't be bothered) to look like Raj used to. Anyway, thanks everyone. All went well with placing the Partsouq order. Seems like the PayPal payment is automatically signalled back to their ordering page, so there's no need to take any additional steps after the PayPal process other than checking the shipping address in PayPal is the same as whatever is entered in the Partsouq order page. Meanwhile, I've ordered 20 plastic rivetted clips (because you can never have too many) and an ashtray assembly, which I'm going to neatly modify to accommodate my Arc Audio PS8 controller. May as well take advantage of the existing shipment! Let's see how we go early next week when the order arrives. Thanks again guys!

Nice. I spoke to my panel beater and apparently, Suttons Spares have taken over from Steve Jarvin, so hopefully I'll get a little more traction with them. If they give me the same story, then I'll just order from Partsouq and be done with it. Might get me a bunch of plastic clips as well. Can never have too many of those, especially when discovering some of them only have three out of four plastic leaves still intact and weaken their grip. What a ball-ache this pedestrian safety bonnet bullshit is turning out to be.

Excellent advice. Thanks guys. I'm going to talk to my panelbeater on Thursday to see who he uses for Nissan (not Infiniti) parts and see if they can be bothered to access the global Nissan parts database, like Raj used to before Steve Jarvin shut down. Failing that, we'll see how he wants to deal with an overseas purchase.

Anyone had any experiences using these guys? They seem to be awfully cheap compared to Infiniti Parts Online in the US, probably partly because they're based in Dubai. I need to get a replacement IPDM for mine since the front-ender triggered the rams for the bonnet. In order to reset the fault code (and extinguish the warning LED in the instrument cluster), one needs to replace the friggin' IPDM. That's a very retarded feature on Nissan's part. I'll definitely examine the old one once I replace it to see what can be done to return it to a fully working state again. My panelbeater gave Peter Warren Infiniti Spares the part number, who claim that they don't have visibility of that specific code. When I pressed Peter Warren Spares about getting in touch with Nissan Melbourne to place a special order from Japan like my (now retired) mate Raj from Steve Jarvin Spares used to, they really didn't want to do it. Unimpressed. Gone are the days of people who give a damn about their customers, even import vehicle owners. Anyway, I'm resorting to overseas sources who still supply them. Partsouq are the cheapest at US$355 shipped, compared to Infiniti Parts Online at US$520 before shipping and Amayama at US$462. All new. Check (if you live in usa): CVS Weekly Ad, or Myer specials. So, anyone dealt with these guys before? I should've picked up my wheel centre caps from them as a test because that kind of saving seems almost too good to be true and I have a rule about things being too good to be true. Seems the general consensus on Google is that they're pretty good but I haven't seen any Aussies having dealt with them.

It won't be difficult. You'll just need to crosscheck the correct dimensions against an G37 Infiniti or 370Z listing and you'll have the DBA part number ready to order.

They definitely make them. You just need to know the equivalents to search for. In my case, the discs I bought for my '09 SP coupe (built Dec '08) were the 42314S (front) and 42315S (rear), which are both said to be suitable for the '09 370Z. Best approach is to take a look at DBA's USA catalogue, find the Infiniti G37 base model in the listing and see how many variants they have listed. Get out the vernier calipers and a straight rule, measure the discs on yours and then you'll find your match. I bought mine on eBay. There was a mob in Queensland flogging the front sets pretty damn cheap. At almost half the price, I thought it was too good to be true but they were indeed the real deal. Maybe they just had them in their warehouse for too long and desperately wanted to offload them. The rears, the cheapest dudes ended up being MRT in Sydney (again, on eBay) and they even went as far as checking with me what vehicle they were for before they shipped. The dude wasn't familiar with the 370GT but I managed to convince him by claiming full responsibility for the accuracy of the order. So yep, prepare for a little uphill battle but once you do find them, make a note of the model and keep that safe so you don't have to remember again when you need to replace them in future.

I can't give up my side mirror camera. No doubt they're retrofitting USDM units. So what are you doing with your old unit? Do you have to return it to them as a core exchange unit?

Maybe because the relay you swapped it with was for the A/C? At any rate, definitely a dud relay. Replace that and hopefully that'll be all you need to do.

I'm curious as to whether or not one retains the functionality of both the rear and side mirror cameras. In the meantime, I'm thinking of another little project. I recall there being a (Panasonic) OEM navigation module in the boot of the V36 and I'm thinking of developing a navigation unit of my own, built from a little Intel NUC which can live in the same space alongside the Panasonic module and intercept the video signals coming from the OEM unit. I'm hoping it's a DVI feed for clarity's sake but will accept an RGB solution if I have to. Worst case scenario, I'll have to feed the awful composite video input instead. The GPS antenna will be a Garmin module with serial data output to feed the NUC with. Software will be based on a freebie (and maybe later their paid version) of MapFactor Navigator, which uses either open source or TomTom maps. It works well as an app on my phone but no phone has a reasonable amount of grunt to operate reliably, let alone smash the life out of the battery, even with a car charger. The point of all this drivel from me is, does anyone have even an excerpt of the JDM workshop manual that shows the pinouts of the Panasonic navigation module? Google is of no help and I'm close to asking my importer from 2011 about getting in touch with one of his Japanese contacts for one if desperation sets in.

Exactly what Ben suggested. Swap with another one that's known to be working and see if it kicks in. Just don't pick a relay that disables anything else that the AV+A/C system would rely on, in accordance with the workshop manual. If you know someone with access to a multimeter, just check the relay coil to be sure it's still in good working order (compared to another relay) and if it passes the resistance test, then feed the relay coil with a 12V power supply and check continuity between the contactors, as indicated on the diagram that's engraved into the relay. That way, you won't be wasting money on an expensive Nissan relay.

Not necessarily. Wiring harnesses typically come in LHD and RHD flavours, so it's still very likely that those relays and fuses will be on the driver's side in your vehicle, as they are in mine when compared against the US G37 workshop manual.

Have you checked near your accelerator pedal as the diagram indicates?

Extracts of the G35 workshop manual, which might be a good starting point. http://zinref.ru/avtomobili/Infiniti/032_010_00_Infiniti_G35_V35_Sedan_service_manual_2007_ENGLISH/999.htm http://zinref.ru/avtomobili/Infiniti/032_010_00_Infiniti_G35_V35_Sedan_service_manual_2007_ENGLISH/996.htm