The Max

It's a long thread but plenty of pointers in here:

Can't say I remember what the cost breakdown was 20 years ago but I do remember it costing me a total of around $7500 at the time. The guys at Level 10 declared it as a repaired transmission, with the costs attributed to labour and very little in parts. They were extremely helpful back then. I'm pretty sure the name of the guy I spoke to was Pat. Really nice folks back then.

Nickcorr is spot on here. It took around four months for my front bumper to arrive. If you want it quicker, it is identical to that of the 2012 G37 but you'll need to convince your dealer to get it in for you, as they usually ask for the VIN. Everyone gets treated as a second class citizen when it comes to imports, even when you have a friend at a dealership like I used to. Nissan Australia make it intentionally painful.

I agree with everything in that article. However, the one pro that I would give to the supercharger setup is that it's friendlier on the stock auto. If you're going to go Level 10, then go nuts with the turbo. I had them build the auto in my old J30 Maxima back in the day when I was on nitrous and eventually turbo. Not a single issue with it and well worth the $7k I paid for it back in '98. It's good to see you doing something different though and I'm keen to get progress updates on this project. It may well pique my interest and finally convince me to go forced induction.

Agreed. Typically, if it's flickering and it is a genuine component failure rather than just a dry joint, it's the semiconductors driving the LEDs rather than the LEDs themselves.

Hopefully the other lesson learned here was don't leave critical shit like that to the last day.

Amen to that. Precisely why I bought my own Consult knock-off scan tool and software. Besides which, I only really trust myself anyway.

No doubt about it, they got you good. I have the same model as you and it has never, ever need the occasional reset for the windows. I've had mine for just over five years and have only performed the reset three times because of disconnecting the battery working on stuff. I would be checking to see what the status is of the passenger door switch when you actuate the driver's door switch. If they're both grounding, that means someone's possibly mucked about with the wiring and got those two door switches working in parallel. I'd be taking a good look at the BCM and its loom for any evidence of tampering/modification. Anyway, that's a side note. Work through this dash light problem first and then progress to the windows. Good luck!

That ought to work for you, unless your ECU has been flashed with the UpRev Osiris. In which case, it either needs the OEM code flashed back to it or the UpRev guys need to get a data dump of your ECU, correct the bug which causes that light to come up and then provide you with the modified code accordingly. Good luck.

Actually, it's electronically where you're going to run into the majority of problems. If you're hoping to continue using all the other features you're currently enjoying on your display, such as the camera(s), maintenance screens, Bluetooth (phone and audio screens), then the integration of the Android kit becomes questionable. I have no interest in the device you're referring to, so forgive me for not caring enough to do the research myself but just be aware that the only thing you'll be able to take out without affecting your AC and even your instrument cluster, will be the LCD touchscreen currently in there. The headunit sitting directly behind the button panel (double-DIN size) needs to remain intact and in service. If the Android kit can take over all major duties, including the bluetooth phone connectivity, then you may have a reasonable solution on your hands. All that said, I don't trust Chinese engineering. They're clever at reverse engineering but not so clever at forward engineering.

Your determination to go with the PS4S is well-founded. I got them for the fronts because of the OEM size and they're worth every cent. They certainly outgrip my PS3 tyres in the rear.

The beeper module is in the engine bay. You could try disconnecting it but that may potentially disable other stuff too, or at least raise a warning on your dash. Nothing harmful but try unplugging it and see.

There are two bolts behind the door handle as well. You need to unclip the plastic trim panel off the door handle to reveal them.

Shouldn't you have asked these questions before you bought your car?

I don't really think there is a way. I've only ever used my phone purely for the handsfree connection and it does occasionally drop out but only for about ten seconds. Never happens during a call though, so it could well be that it's a power-saving feature in Android that kicks in and then the handsfree kit wakes it up again. You would think that while streaming music from your phone to the vehicle, the phone would stay awake at all times but I suppose something odd might be at play there. One thing you could try is preventing the phone from falling asleep on you by going into your phone's Settings -> Developer Options -> Stay Awake (enabled) and plugging it into a USB charger. That way, the phone will never sleep while it's charging and therefore, not put anything else to sleep, such as your Bluetooth connection. It's only a theory but doing this will either prove or disprove it.

Some of us would disagree and argue that it's not about getting to 180 from the moment one takes off at the lights.

Do it the right way. Either ECUtek or Cipher Osiris to reflash the ECU.

No idea how you're achieving that, given your Panasonic unit is a digital TV tuner (DVB-T), not radio (DAB, let alone even analogue). Short answer, I doubt you'll get anything else out of it, let alone anything at all.

Bureaucracy might suggest importing those Michelins would not be legal because they aren't stamped by an Australian authority. However, the tyre definitely exceeds Australian standards.

I'm not familiar with other sizes because I figure that Nissan have gone to reasonable lengths to determine the appropriate sizes for our tyres on what is a pretty serious performance vehicle. It's not a supercar but nevertheless, it's been built to do what it does very well as it is.

I'd need to get a look at a schematic to understand what's going on but I'd imagine there's a sensor, control circuit and a stepper motor. One of those three components will have failed. If it's an optical sensor, it might just need a clean with isopropyl alcohol. If it's a mechanical sensor, it'll either need a clean or replacement. If it's the control circuit, easiest approach would be to replace it but if it's just a dried out or shorted capacitor, that can probably be cheaply sorted out. If it's the stepper motor, you can determine that by feeding the appropriate pins with 12V to see if you get any movement out of it. Again, without a schematic, hard to be sure where to begin with the diagnosis past the obvious mechanical bits.

If you believe the exhaust is obnoxiously loud, why are you still interested in it? Only obnoxious people (aka wankers) take interest in such items for a street vehicle. They do it because they want to be noticed. Plain and simple. As I've said in a similar post, concerning custom exhausts: If you want to extract as much horsepower out of your NA vehicle as you possibly can, get an Akrapovic exhaust system. If you want a nice note that's tasteful and not obnoxious, get a Megan Racing muffler. If you want to be a wanker, get a custom exhaust made with tips that can house a whole illegal immigrant family.

You weren't reading all of what I wrote. Now I understand why you call yourself Pete_Repeat.

I'm of the (strong) opinion that Bridgestone tyres suck balls. I've tested a couple of them and they simply don't handle wet weather very well, for my spirited driving style. So, if you want to get serious with your grip, I would strongly urge you to go check out the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (or, if you're not that budget conscious, Pilot Sport 4S). I run PS3 on the rear (because I got them about a year ago) but when I was looking for the Nissan specification for the fronts, I could only find them in a PS4S and only outside of Australia. I ended up ordering in a pair from TireRack.com but they cost me a total of AUD$1100 for the pair. Was it worth it? Hell yeah. If anything, I find that I now need to balance out the grip in the rear with a pair of PS4S one day because the front end is exceedingly grippier than the rear end now. As for road noise, maybe it's because I'm so used to driving the old BA wagon nugget, which also has PS3 tyres but I have not noticed what some have complained - that the PS4 are a noticeably noisier tyre compared to the PS3. In the V36, I'm always blasting heavy metal so road noise is non-existent.

SFA. I did it for a pleasant note.