The Max

Could've saved me all the hard work installing my aftermarket system.

Wheel repairs in Sydney Hey everyone. Just doing a little homework on any recommendations for a wheel repairer in Sydney. Will be eventually getting around to fixing the Japanese owner's gutter rash incidents and could use someone who does the proper method of alloy filling and filing back rather than just blending. Going to stick with the stock standard shadow silver colour. I've seen black on a white vehicle and frankly, I get pulled over enough as it is without giving the car an even faster look. I'd much prefer powdercoating, unless anyone recommends otherwise.

It's more about the acceleration and braking. Particularly the braking, where many a test vehicle have failed NSW's stringent criteria. Besides which, if you believe cops adhere to the 160km/h pursuit rule (at least in NSW), trust me, they don't and I've seen that for myself. I won't explain how.

And to explain, there's nothing wrong with your stereo. It's the nature of Japan's FM broadcast system. They operate on a narrower range than many other nations.

While our population influences the size of our market, I fail to see how a per capita view has any bearing on what defines the best car. We either build the best vehicles as a nation or we don't. I would've thought "per capita" is used to represent a proportion of the population in whatever category that applies to an actual person, not an object's quality. Happy to hear your take on this though. I do agree about OH&S driving the labour costs up bit that's only one factor. There's also the unions, cost of living, just to name a couple. I'm sure there's more that I'm missing but my argument still stands. Quality suffered since the mid-90s and it only got worse from there. Best cars in the world? No chance.

...and if anyone has any recommendations for a good upholsterer in Sydney, I'm all ears.

Final entry in this saga. Even Amayama can't score one. I realise the car is eight years old but I expected a little more support than that. According to Nissan Australia (Melbourne), even the Infiniti seats won't fit because there's a difference in the floorpan where the seats clip into, etc. Smells of bullshit to me but there you have it. So I'm getting my mate to pick up the $1000 leather trim that he was able to obtain, thankfully, and I'll find an upholsterer who can fit it up for me when I get back from my work overseas. With a bit of luck, maybe the existing foam will be salvageable in that either the caustic liquid never made it past the leather and into the foam, or otherwise the foam can be cleaned up reasonably well to avoid a recurrence. Valuable lesson learned.

Pardon my tardiness. Been a little busy here. So, you're certain you have it paired with your phone but for whatever reason, it won't connect. My suggestion would be to try re-pairing it. Delete the MY-CAR profile from your phone and start again. Firstly, go to option 3/7 and set your BT password to whatever four digit PIN you want. Then go back to option 2/7 and register your handset, as per the instructions in the Jap > Eng manual on this site. It should come good. Sometimes, complex electronics like this needs to simply be wiped clean and recreated, because it's just one little setting that may get corrupted and it throws everything out of whack. Doesn't matter if it's a $200 head unit in a car or a $300,000 broadcast video multiviewer. They all have their moments like this. Good luck.

So it should be the same as mine then. Can you supply a photo of how the "greyed out" option looks, showing the full screen?

Try another battery. If it's not the battery, then it's likely to be your starter. Check for power to your starter and work your way back until you find the culprit. Simple process of elimination.

Access the rear of the headunit and check with a multimeter for +12V at the two power feeds that most aftermarket units take - one is the constant/battery feed and the other is typically the accessories feed. If both of those wires are showing +12V, then it's your headunit. Check if it has its own internal fuse and see if it has blown. Fuses blow for good reason, generally but it's worth just replacing the fuse one time to see if it happens again. If the wires are not showing +12V on each of them, then you need to trace the wiring back to where there may be an inline fuse perhaps. It's just about following the path. Nothing rocket science about it.

Best cars in the world? They're battleaxes but they're hardly best value. Come on, for the money you paid on a BA back in the day, you'd get a rice burner with a way better interior and one that wouldn't fall apart after ten years. Aussie cars failed in overall quality of construction since they had to compete against the Japanese and Koreans. Why? Because our expensive labourforce drove them to cut costs in materials. We've always been capable of producing quality vehicles that could take a beating. We just lost sight of that since the late 90s/early 2000s and frankly, I'm surprised the car industry lasted here as long as it did.

Why did you take the dash apart? You've got so much room in the centre console's internals to install that device and it's so much easier to access. Think back to what you pulled apart with your dash and retrace your steps. Go through each device one by one. If your dash lights are dimming when you press the button and whatnot, try checking your power wiring for your Miracast box. You may have derived your power mistakenly from a dash circuit that you shouldn't have, particularly your grounding if you just got it off something you thought was a negative wire but is in fact a drain wire through another device rather than direct to the vehicle's chassis.

Looks like Nissan Australia got it wrong and sent what was only the leather trim but not the cushion as well. Steve Jarvin's boys (sadly, Raj is no longer there, so there goes any reliability from those guys too) are supposedly being told by Nissan (Melbourne) that now even that trim is no longer stocked in Japan. I suppose after eight years, they can only carry so many spares but the parts are dwindling fast for these vehicles. So my options are two: Seek out a wrecker in Sydney with a suitable seat Try out Amayama I've lodged an order with Amayama to see what they come back with for the entire seat assembly, at almost double the cost of what this trim order was, which thankfully I'm not paying for. Anyone dealt with them before? Anything you can share about your experiences or what you've heard would be nice. Otherwise, anyone know of a decent wrecker in Sydney for Nissans/Infinitis? At this rate, I don't care if it's not the exact same design as long as the colour is still black. I've been out of the spares game for a while when it comes to wreckers, so I'm open to all suggestions.

Meanwhile, speaking of bad workshops (without mentioning names), if you are thinking of getting your engine and/or vehicle done by a certain competition engines guy in Campsie (NSW), send me a private message and I'll tell you my horror story, which resulted in a successful tribunal hearing.

So, the video was entertaining and took me back to the good old days of races in industrial zones, which is where I presume they were having these races. Ah, to be back in those days when highway patrol vehicles weren't as plentiful. The only thing I have a gripe with them was that they should've avoided roads in industrial zones which had side streets. Blocking them would be the total opposite of courteous to other road users but otherwise, they were definitely putting someone at risk. Cruising around, it's one thing to have a little fun on an empty highway but it's another thing to have fun with cars that are so excessively high powered that they're too difficult to tame. That's when I get a little worried. It's one thing to do 250km/h on a freeway at 3am but it's something totally different to be tapping into all that horsepower on roads which just aren't made for holding such wild animals. They should definitely save those things for the track if they want to tap into all that horsepower. If it was 600hp or something similar, I personally wouldn't have a problem with it as they seemed to choose their time and place reasonably well, with a couple exceptions (such as the single-carriageway with an oncoming truck - that was stupid).

The incriminating five minutes, I'm guessing. [emoji14] Cheers.

Re-uploaded it where?

Nice looking rims but I'd like to slap these retarded owners for having such an unnecessary ridiculous camber on them.

Nice. Looking at mine, which I'm guessing are still OEM, the rubber surround felt too fragile for that. Just threw on a set of Trico Ultra blades on the shitbox BA Falcon. Not bad but they're no Bosch Icon. Those passed the high speed test last night on the freeway. I might still flip the housings around eventually, just because of my OCD.

How did you even get the ends of the wiper assemblies exposed enough to slide out/in the rubbers? Mine seem impossible to do that on.

The PIN tag is a little metal plate, around 5mm x 12mm which has four digits stamped into it. Mine was attached to both of my keys when I received the car. If that's missing, you need the immobiliser module for the Consult III+ tool to bypass the PIN checking, or otherwise it's a matter of making enquiries back to Japan to have it calculated from other numbers found on the BCM sticker or something like that. There's a thread all about that somewhere in this forum. If the ECU is brand new, then you'll be able to start the car as per the virgin ECU procedure. If it's a second hand ECU, which therefore has the details of another vehicle programmed into it, then you will need to reprogram it as previously stated. Alternatively, do what I did five years ago when I bought my car and jump on AliBaba.com to buy a Consult III+ tool, software and immobiliser module.

There's a fair bit that needs doing, according to the workshop manual: Initialise the NATS system and re-register all keys Register the VIN Relearn accelerator pedal released position Relearn throttle valve closed position Relearn idle air volume If the ECU you buy is a new one (i.e. completely virgin, no prior data programmed into it), then the procedure for step 1 should be fairly straightforward and automatic. Otherwise, it will need Nissan to do that for you with their Consult tool. Steps 2 and 5 will definitely also require the same Consult tool. Steps 3 and 4 don't need the Consult tool. All in all, there's no technical reason why your local Nissan dealer couldn't do this for you, unless they're arseholes. In which case, if I was in WA, I'd be happy to volunteer my Consult III+ tool and have some nerdy fun helping you out, provided you have the PIN tag, as I don't have the immobiliser module for the scan tool.

To be fair, my OEM ones have lasted for five years. I can't really complain but then again, that's largely because it's off the road around five months in every 1.5 years. Still, if the rubber can last even longer, why not? Like I said, this is in the name of science. If they give me the same longevity, then I won't bother importing in future, depending on what changes with the product in another five years' time.

Apologies for the thread resurrection but I thought I'd offer a little insight as it hasn't been mentioned here before. I read through a number of reviews and forums that the Bosch Icon and Aerotwin are two different beasts, with the Icon being the better one, particularly for longevity. Only thing is, it seems to be exclusively a North American product. The problem with that, if it is an actual problem, is that the aerodynamic profile will sit upside down on our vehicles. So, in the name of science, I bought a 24A and 17B for mine off eBay and mounted them today with that expected upside down result. Now to wait for rain during a high speed drive to see if that will be to my detriment or not.