The Max

Whoops. I meant to say G35, given it's a 350GT from 2007. That suggests to me that it's a sedan and the appropriate air filter will be determined by looking up for an Infiniti G35 on Fram's site.

Not something else - someone else ... pretty much everything that Taine said. Takes a bit more than a multimeter and continuity testing to be sure you get it right. All Japanese vehicles are speed limited to 180km/h and as for having to use forced induction to see beyond 180km/h, well... (nah, I won't go there) And CAN stands for Controller Area Network, used by a variety of equipment outside of the automotive realm as well, but it's all about carrying control data around in motor vehicles predominantly as a means of minimising the wiring required since every device transmits and listens on the same wires, waiting for its turn in accordance with the ID transmitted at the head of each data packet before it responds accordingly.

What? Where did you come from with that nonsense?

I'm guessing it's the brand called "Horrible".

No idea what the V35 needs. Look up the Infiniti G35 on the Fram site and that'll give you the right part number.

I use Fram air filters. Cheap and work very well.

HEATHEN! Leave these hallowed halls NOW! Seriously though, Toyota haven't really impressed me with anything beyond their Landcruiser.

That's competitive.

Sounds about right. In my 2009, driving Sydney to Melbourne (and not behaving myself, ) I got 10.58km/L on the first half and 9.29km/L on the next leg, according to my fuel logging app I use on my phone (MyFuelLog - check it out, really handy). As I'm a bit of a stickler for BP fuel, on the way back I made the mistake of not stopping past the BP in Albury, thinking there was another one further up north but they didn't have Ultimate 98 (and were closed!!). With the trip meter not being able to calculate the remaining distance beyond the last estimate of 30km, I ended up stopping past the Caltex further up and filled up with 69.01L on 663km, so you're pretty close to the mark. Driving Sydney to Canberra last month, I got 11.88km/L on the return trip. City driving, I average 7.09km/L, again, driving somewhat enthusiastically. Now, with all that good news, you still haven't told us how much the dyno tune cost. So, tell us the price!

Yep. I've noticed that too. Unfortunately, I'm a bipolar driver so the vehicle can't make up its mind what's appropriate either.

Personally, I didn't notice any throttle lag in my 2009 and no change after the tune either. As for the gear shifts being snappier, I'm curious about this because mine feel the same but I usually shift down a couple gears in preparation for my squirt anyway - always on the ready.

Well, to be fair, you need to back up what you claim, otherwise, it's just another cool story. You have to appreciate that many a joker will jump on a forum, make a lot of claims about a particular business pretending to be a happy customer when in reality, they're a part of the said business. Hence if you take a look at my thread, I posted the graph along with my post, just to keep it all legitimate. Getting back to your tune, looks like you got 2kW more than I. Must be those funky little black things from AsM. I was curious about how they sound but if it sounds raspy, I might just stick to my Megan Racing muffler and leave it alone. How much did CRD charge you for the dyno tune?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451709-ecutek-flash-tune-dyno-results/

DPHAM?

No issues but check the little electric pump on the washer bottle (accessed from underneath the car).

Did they reflash using ECUtek like mine was? Post up your dyno graphs like I did in 2014. I'd like to compare.

By HU power supply, perhaps it's an issue with something as simple as capacitors drying up. Particularly if it's a common problem, it could be more likely a case of cheap capacitors or just a bad batch of them in which they eventually do dry out and present these issues. If you're handy with soldering/reworking surface mount components, replacing caps within the power supply of the HU would be a good place to start.

Heh. Remote start to get it to 900RPM before driving off is a good start for me. By that stage, we're warm enough. Good move with the teflon tape too. I use teflon paste but same deal really. Post pics when it's all done and in action. This is a mighty fine idea.

I'm glad you did because I'm clearly a spastic. Sorry dude. That'll teach me not to look at things in absolute detail! I read about the oil issues when I was looking into buying mine. I figure at 39,000km, I don't have much to worry about right now but at some point, I plan to put a sexy little Autometer Cobalt series unit in - either in the cup holder of the centre console or hidden under the ashtray panel, just exposing the display itself rather than the whole 2-1/16" dial. In which case, that adapter you've shown is a wise choice. The only thing that concerns me a little is whether or not you would need to keep a spare o-ring about, just in case if you end up unscrewing the adapter as you unscrew the filter during an oil change. What are your thoughts on this, just from your observations so far?

Ah, so you're not putting in an adjustable switch in that sandwich plate, it's an actual variable sensor for a gauge? Sorry, I didn't take a look at the photo until now. Please ignore EVERYTHING I've said earlier. In that case, you can't replace the stock one with that. A switch has two functions - on and off. Your sensor, on the other hand, actually gives you a reading of the pressure. Stick to your original plan with the sandwich plate then. Regardless, oil pressure is oil pressure so wherever you tap into the system, you will have the same pressure readings. In my Nissan Maxima, I had the pressure switch and pressure sensor both working off the same point on the engine block using a VDO brass t-piece adaptor just because I had the clearance and it was convenient. I haven't taken a good look at the VQ block to see where the pressure switch is to determine the best course of action. The smartest thing you did though was going electric instead of mechanical. That nylon line can fail and if it doesn't spew forth oil in your car's interior, you will definitely lose oil either way. Not good when you're away from home.

That's easy to answer. It's just a switch, not a variable output sensor. The computer won't respond any differently.

Ah, so it's more about having two sensors instead of just the one. Furry nuts then.

Damn. Lessons learned!

Isn't the OEM pressure switch replaceable with something more suitable? Seems like a lot of trouble for installing a better oil pressure switch.

I've had my speed tested with two devices at 160km/h on the speedometer: 1) GPS showed 150km/h 2) Cop's radar in Albury showed 149km/h