The Max

Then maybe the fuel system needs a good check, starting with your vapour capture components - neck breather outlet, hose, carbon canister.

Sounds to me like we have different definitions of "a bit lowered".

Absolutely. I've navigated bends at sedate and ridiculous speeds. The 4WAS is a massive benefit in any setting, even for a u-turn.

Relax dude. We all share our experiences here. No difference. I'm not always this verbose, typically when someone doesn't bother searching through existing threads, much to their offence. Screw 'em.

It isn't a definite thing with performance pads but it is certainly possible. Like I said, I've gone squeal-free with mine, even when cold, but others have had the slight cold squeal. Unless it's happening every time to apply the brakes across the entire temperature range, it's hardly annoying enough to be an issue for me. As another example, I use Bendix Ultimate pad on my shitbox Ford wagon with DBA4000 series discs. I get zero squeal out of them. However, a friend did the same to his XR6 ute and he gets a squeal at low speed. He breaks balls about it because mine doesn't do it but he doesn't seem to understand that it's just luck of the draw. Slotted discs are beneficial for removing dust that normally gets trapped between the pad and the disc, giving your pads better bite. I don't know if they do anything for temperature so much because on my roughest days, I've managed to warp a set of DBA4000 slotted after around 12,000km on my Maxima back in the day. If you want to keep the temperature down, you use cross-drilled discs. HOWEVER, don't waste your money on cross-drilled. You're not driving a race car, smashing your brakes in from > 200km/h at bends every 200m. The holes inevitably develop fractures which is a sign to throw them out not long after. Slotted is the most you ever need to go in my opinion, even if you drive like a bastard like I do at times. It used to be all the time, which is why I managed to warp those discs so soon, but traffic these days is bad enough in Sydney such that there's nowhere to speed your bum off anyway. As for the muffler, beauty is in the ear of the beholder. I like cars that sound tough but I can't drive them all day with that horrible drone in the cabin. The Megan Racing muffler gives the vehicle a nice note without being obnoxious. Others here have other preferences which you should check out too.

If it's only when cold, chances are you might still cop it with the EBC brakes too. I bought them for their stopping power and minimal dust under abuse. So far, I've been fortunate to go squeal-free but on a cold morning just rolling out of the garage, they do give a little vibration until they've warmed up after a couple stops. If you still decide to go ahead with them, no harm in just replacing one end for the moment. It'll feel better than what you already have but once you do the fronts, where most of the braking power is, you'll want to stop more than you speed. ...not really.

There is truth to it. Read this thread. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/437969-Programming-A-New-Key-For-V36

What he said. Even if it only exists in their US catalogue, you can still order them from any DBA supplier here. Don't let them tell you otherwise. I had this argument with my local supplier, who couldn't find the 4000 series discs part number for my Maxima in his Australian catalogue. He insisted it didn't exist. I could've saved myself five minutes of arguing by showing him the email from the beginning rather than at the end but I enjoy a good argument and like to see what kind of people I'm dealing with.

Sounds about right then if you have about 8L to spare at that point. If you can't hear the bubbling, which is definitely an obvious sound, then there may be something going on with your breather or the vapour canister. Probably from the previous owner overfilling it too. There is absolutely no advantage to filling it past the first click. At most, I gently continue to the nearest dollar, which is only about another 500mL at most. Anything more than that is asking for trouble with your vapour capture system.

You can't hear it bubbling like a blowing bubbles into a milkshake?

Agreed. Can't hide behind age. It's our responsibility as adults to help further mankind through education.

I just hope that Just Cars don't pick the cheapest and nastiest repairer for you. Best of luck dude.

Ah, this is what I love about this community. We really do come together when it's for the greater good.

And after it's all done, tell your friend that we all think he's a mongo for loving that bar.

Keep us informed on the progress of your conversion. I'm curious as to how this works out.

Not that anyone else drives my vehicle but I'll try this with my 2nd key and see if it actually works. Reason why I'm skeptical about it is because there are definitely differences between the JDM BCMs and the USDM BCMs.

1) When the battery in your smart key runs flat, you can still start the car by inserting it in the key slot 2) Not that I'm aware of 3) Which is the seat memory as well - set up your seat, steering wheel and mirrors how you like them. Press the "Set" button momentarily. Buttons "1" and "2" should both light up. Press and hold the desired numbered button until the light goes out. Saved. To recall the memory, you must be in park or neutral first and then press the desired button momentarily.

Heheh.

And despite the noise I've made to Carpoint, no changes have been made to the ad. That's pretty much what I expected. Call me bored but this is proving to be an interesting challenge. There must be a way to kick this guy in the nuts.

Don't go thinking $10 for HID lamps is a good thing. Be prepared to spend a reasonable amount for a good set of Osram or Phillips. Check out previous threads here about recommendations for good HID bulbs and places to get them. Anyway, if your HID lamps keep blowing, then you're most likely to be right about the ballast. Perhaps an eBay search for replacement ballasts is a good place to start? That's where I'd start looking.

I remember the upgraded Maxima ones were then changed to metal so perhaps not plastic these days. All I can say is my '09 model doesn't act that way. It's a smooth small drop, a slight vibration can be felt in the door but nothing significant and then it comes back up with a gentle thud as all windows do. The only click I get is the sound of the relay.

For what model?

Reminds me of the plastic bearings on the old J30 Maxima regulators doing the same thing. Have you taken the door trim off to see if there's anything obvious to the eye?

It's not ugly but I do prefer a badge than something which just looks like a gaping hole in the front of the car.

Seems to indicate to me that the previous owner added some Nismo flavour to it himself. I wouldn't put any stock into the Nismo stuff.