The Max

Thanks n15m0. Looks like it'll be Pirelli PZeros in a 225/40R19 and 245/40R19 combination then.

It's starting to bum me out a little considering I can't find a single manufacturer that supplies the 224/45R19 rubber that's recommended for the fronts and I would like to figure out the best formula before RAWS receive my '09 V36 coming in from Japan soon. I was keen on getting a set of Dunlop Sport Maxx as they served me well on the old Maxima but the front tyres seem to be the stumbling block here. Considering they must be readily available in Japan and most of Dunlop's top-end tyres are manufactured there, I'm hoping that perhaps something is available on a special order perhaps. Anyone else already done this homework or should I embark on it myself?

Has anyone tried EBC Redstuff? I used to use them on my J30 Maxima (after coming to the realisation that the Greenstuff just didn't last with my spirited driving). Of course, I didn't have as wide a selection to choose from with that car so I'd be interested to know with the greater choices for the V35/36's what people's findings are.

I think it was more the wording of your question. First you ask the best cables to get in Australia. Then you state you imagine the US is the best source for them. Anyway, the cables don't have to be terribly fancy. As long as they are the correct gauge, have the correct size lugs for the task and are well sheathed to protect them from the extreme conditions of an engine bay then they will serve their purpose well as long as they're properly installed. I'll make my own when the time comes.

This sounds like a more viable modification than going twin turbo not to mention a simpler installation too, relatively speaking. I think this will have to be the way to go when the 370GT sedans finally get the green light.

Is the automatic transmission control unit separate to the ECU or is it all in the one box? Reason why I ask is because if I ever were to decide to do a turbo upgrade to a 370GT and couldn't use the Uprev Osiris on it, I would have to do what I did in my former Maxima where the MoTeC M800 pretty much took all the sensors away from the factory ECU leaving it with the tach signal, ground speed, TPS and a few other essentials which allowed it to continue to communicate successfully with the separate TCU for the auto.

Hmm. More homework for me then when the time comes.

I suppose this means sourcing a lot of 370GT bits from Japan too. Any good sources anyone can recommend?

I see. So in which case, other than the cross-referencing, one way to check would be to try the Osiris Tuner version and extract the existing maps first to see if the Osiris is really capable. On the other hand, another desperation tactic (though very expensive) would be to replace the ECU with the US version provided they're pin compatible and then go to town on it. Either that or go for a MoTeC M800. I'm starting to think I shouldn't have sold my M800 last year...

You were definitely wise to avoid the Unichip. Although, has anyone here considered the Uprev Osiris? Seems like a lot of turbo kits in the US use this particular set up as there's no wiring to mess about with and you're no longer at the mercy of the maps determined by Nissan.

Agreed.

I've never liked leather trimmed seats so mine will have to get a tasteful set of velour seat covers when the sedans are cleared for compliance.

If that thing was hydrolocked, he'd know about it. At any rate, this is exactly why you don't install a low-hanging cold air intake. If you want to do it properly, get your cold air in from the scuttle panel or somewhere relatively high.

Absolutely gay and ridiculous. Installing them on a V35/V36 takes the elegance away from the vehicle and seriously, what is the appeal?

EBC is a better language anyway. I'm a big fan of the red pads myself. The greens only lasted me about 12,000km.

RC = Reserve Capacity (measured in Ampere Hours) ... what you really should be looking for when you want to run things off the battery only. CCA isn't an indication of how long the battery will run with all your electronics in the car. That's an indication of how much current can be drawn from the battery by your starter motor (and other electronics on the ignition circuit). The higher the CCA, the crisper your starts will be until they can be no more crisper. So in effect, if you get a battery with say a CCA of 600A and a RC of 40Ah, it's not going to be a better battery than say one with CCA of 500A and RC of 65Ah which will still give you the same crisp starts in your vehicle with an even greater reserve capacity for playing your DVD's for longer shits and giggles.

I had the same problem with my 92 Maxima. I'd like to blame it on a dirty resistive track on the fuel sender in the tank but with all the fuel sloshing around, that should keep it clean. I ended up fixing mine myself by painting a thin film of conductive carbon ink on the worn pads but this stuff isn't cheap to come by (about $200 a bottle) but I use it for a number of other applications in my line of work so that was my justification for it. I'm not sure if you can just get that as a replacement part. I do remember asking around for my own reference including my favourite Nissan dealership but I can't remember if I had to get the whole assembly (minus the pump) or not.

Great. Sorry to dredge up this old topic but in preparation for bringing in an 08/09 V36, I have my tried and true Clifford Avantguard 4 unit from my old car that I want to carry across to this vehicle particularly for its Blackjax (anti-carjacking) feature but also for its great performance with its various sensors. This is just too good an alarm for me and I'd like to continue using this beast rather than give it up for something I may not be happy with as its replacement. I guess with all that I have read in this thread, this alarm will not meet ADR and Australian Standards requirements since the wiring harness is colour coded. That and the fact that I am an electrical engineer but not licensed for this sort of automotive work probably won't help me out here. Am I really stuck with having to pay for someone licensed to install an alarm that they supply in order to meet compliance requirements?

Nicely done mate.

It is a good place to be. Though I've got my sights set on a 2009 V36 SP instead so I'll be going for the more expensive solution ... perhaps.

From a cold start (so you don't get hot coolant blowing up in your face), take the radiator cap off and check if you can see the water flowing. Gradually accelerate and the water flow should increase with it. Check for any water dripping from the engine which would indicate any leaks from the water pump itself or possibly a blown welsh plug. If your radiator fan isn't working, your car will overheat at idle after about 5 - 10 min and you'll know about it. Worst case scenario, could be a blown head gasket. Happened in my old Maxima like that once.

I'm not surprised by that price. Here's what I suggest, get in touch with your local Auto One or Auto Pro and buy the belts from them instead of Nissan. According to the Bando USA site for the Infiniti G35 (2003 model) the belt sizes are 6PK1185 and alternator and 4PK930 but they don't specify the engine model to be 100% sure that we're talking about the same motor (and hence, same accessories). If the belt sizes you've quoted came from the Nissan dealership, then order those ones from your local auto parts shop. My personal recommendation though is that in terms of brands, you should only go Bando or Gates. I remember going through 2 alternator belts in 3 months from some rubbish brand called Roband (Danish made) which I bought from Robbos and will never buy again. Once I replaced the belt with a Bando, it was absolutely reliable. I should've stuck to Bando and Gates since that's all I used for over a decade anyway. I just went to Robbos because it was late on a Saturday on both occasions.

Meguiars Final Inspection and a cotton cloth. Very handy for bird droppings too when they're no older than a few hours. As was said before, make sure it's only dust or light dirt and not medium-heavy dirt when using this stuff.

I'm a major fan of Meguiars' products. I go by the one rule I was given when my Maxima was resprayed over a decade ago ... polish and wax your vehicle when the water stops beading. That's typically every 6 months in my case, with 300km long trips perhaps 10 times in a year and often garaged up whether at home or at work. When the time comes, it's a five step process: Wash, Scratch-X for the more stubborn spots, surface prep/polish with their Gold Class Surface Prep, Show Car (#7) glaze and wax with Gold Class Wax.

Ah, so they didn't use the same transmission unit then. Ah well.