
Tony de Wonderful
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Everything posted by Tony de Wonderful
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I was just wondering if my FPR could be set up wrong because it was only recently put on? It's a Tomei one and I have a gauge on the FPR - the gauge should show the adjusted pressure yeah? So will be lower at idle and higher at boost? What's it supposed to be on a GTST anyway? Is it 2.5 bar?
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I forgot to mention I did add some octane booster about 3 weeks ago.
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That is a Lambda of 0.9 at fast idle (3000 rpm)? The only thing I can think off is that 'cos the easily burned volatiles have been lost from the fuel you get incomplete combustion or something and excess fuel in the exhaust??? The old fuel burning like crap to be blunt? I did bypass the throttle-body coolant so I'm a bit worried that might be causing it as well though?
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You need to consider the system as a whole not just a given unit of water in the radiator and how much time it spends there Put it this way if you pumped slow enough you would have a stone cold rad but the rest of the system would be boiling hot/overheating. It's not just the turbulance either, because the faster you pump the less time a given unit of water spends in the rad and this means it cools less. This actually makes the radiator more efficient because cooling rates are faster when the temp difference between the rad and outside air is highest. It sounds like a paradox but it is becase you are feeding in units of hot water behind the unit in question; the whole system cools at a faster rate. .
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Well no the radiator cap sets a maximum pressure at one part of the cooling system only. The pressures seen upstream of the radiator are going to be higher because of the sum total of frictional losses; the water pump has to force that water through all the galleries etc and that creates frictional losses before it gets to the rad. My understanding is you might have 30 psi in the block or so.
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Well that is my point that fast flow rates don't mean 'the water doesn't get a chance to cool in the radiator'. My boiling water comment was to demonstrate that heat exchange would still occur at higher flow rates.
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Diesel Fuel Conversion
Tony de Wonderful replied to AcurrentAffair's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Here's a rough guide: 1) Disconnect coil pack loom. 2) Cut throttle cable and tie off so throttle is always open. 3) Drill and tap the middle of the throttle body and send fuel line there. 4) Install a butterfly valve on fuel line and send throttle cable there from the pedal. 5) Fill with diesel 6) Drive -
Apparently that is 100% not true. It would probably cool a given unit of water faster because you get more turbulence. You are flowing more units of water per unit of time so this compensates for a unit of water 'dwelling' in the radiator for less time. Trying poring boiling water or your hand, first slow and then fast and get back to use about cooling rates!
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Double.
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double
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As I understand it you need to consider pressure in the system also, because pressure helps stop steam pockets from forming which lead to hot spots. You could increase flow rate by removing any restriction/restrictior (such as a thermostat) but this would reduce the pressure and could lead to worse cooling by virtue of steam pockets forming. Also flow paths and flow split between the head and bottom end should be considered. You might be able to flow 'smarter' ,rather than flow faster, to cool the engine as well or better, and this won't rob HP.
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Diesel Fuel Conversion
Tony de Wonderful replied to AcurrentAffair's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Put a diesel motor in it. -
R33 Gt-R Rear Brake Torque Specs
Tony de Wonderful replied to albertm7's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
152.1 - 154.9 Nm sound huge for the front which are M12 I think? The caliper is made of aluminum alloy so I think it should be less? -
I don't believe that the hardlines are very strong, they are meant to go from a to b with b being a fitting, not to a long length of waggly braided hose which tugs and pulls as the steering mechanism moves etc and suspension goes up and down. Just me 2 pence, 'cos I was thinking of just doing that and when I got down and started doing it I could see it was a piss poor engineering solution and was gonna stress the flare nut going into the Brembo, instead of a braket/fitting taking all the loads/stress. So that is why I got the HEL line instead.
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Help With Finding Where This Wire Is Meant To Go.
Tony de Wonderful replied to L0Ki's topic in General Maintenance
Yeah just go around the car tearing out all the earthing wires! -
Help With Finding Where This Wire Is Meant To Go.
Tony de Wonderful replied to L0Ki's topic in General Maintenance
Yeah just go around the car tearing out all the earthing wires! -
Well I wouldn't use a ziptie etc or some half-assed clip (no offense). When I had the GTR front braided lines I was thinking of cobbling together a DIY mount etc but decided against it; you have the suspension travel and steering motion - all pulling etc on the lines, you don't want them to get kinked etc or suffer too much stress - last thing you want is a line breaking when you are on the road - the OEM mountings are well designed
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I'd say the mounts/brakets for the brake lines/hardlines are they key. If the OP is retaining the BNR32 brakets he needs braided lines suitable for them not for a 33 GTR just because the brakes came from a 33 GTR. He should have a look at his car and envisage how the 33 brembos calipers are gonna hook up to his car and where the brakets/mounts are. Don't just chuck out his OEM brakets/mounts. I would guess he needs braided lines for a BNR32 specifically, if the rear ones are long enough to replace and hardlines etc like with 33 GTST kits. I made a mistake when I got lines for putting brembos on my R33 GTST; I ordered R33 GTR goodridge ones and the front lines were female-female and no good. So I just got HEL GTST lines and put the brembos on retaining the GTST front mounts/brakets. The rear lines replaced the hardline and mounts though. I'd be careful about that. The HEL front line for the GTST is a long male-female line with a plastic fitting in the middle which slides up and down. The plastic fitting is designed to fit in that hole on the GTST braket/mount, so the lines is secure and not free to vibrate etc. Yes this line would fit on a GTR but I don't think it will mount as designed line for the GTST and you would have to conjure up your own mount otherwise the line would be loose which is bad.
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Clear cam gear covers all like tight speedos....a way to show off your manhood.
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stuff idiots say about skylines
Tony de Wonderful replied to pentae's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I mean it takes more skill to drive a modified manual car, and makes you more of a man! -
stuff idiots say about skylines
Tony de Wonderful replied to pentae's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I'd say an R35 is easier to drive. I see women doing school runs in 'em where I live. You have flappy paddles and ATTESA so any muppet can look good driving 'em. Try doing school runs with a twin or triple plate!