Marcus89

Found that my check engine light will come on sometimes after prolonged periods of high revs (when drifting at track or last night for a short moment on a mountain drive). When the light comes on I can't hear knock and the car does not run any differently. I also found that if I touch the accelerator pedal the light will go away straight away. After a drifting run the light is on if I let the revs drop down slowly the check engine light will disappear without me doing anything once the revs get below around 2500-3000. It seems like a very strange problem and am just worried about causing damage to the engine more than anything. I have: Rb25det Neo Full exhaust Splitfire coilpacks ARC FMIC Nistune also have but already noticed this problem before installing/tuning for: z32 AFM ATR43 G2.5 Bosch 023 Would the check engine light come on if there was a fault with the O2 sensor? Main reason I ask this is a long time ago the plug to my O2 sensor was badly melted yet it all seemed to work fine so I tucked it away from the exhaust so it wouldn't melt further and haven't really had any problems to indicate it isn't working under normal circumstances (I get normal economy for a r34)

From what I have gathered they are a helluva lot better than those Atomic or whatever the hell ebay specials up there but not as reliable as splitfires. theres a thread comparing all the ones of any interest here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/187108-jjr-coil-packs-vs-oem-vs-splitfire-vs-other/

If your not limiter bashing there should be next to no chance of engine damage unless like has been said your hitting high oil or coolant temps.

If you want to keep the standard manifold and a more stock look you cannot go wrong with the hypergear much much easier to fit up and very good results

I have a 2001 manual GTT and it worked fine with the standard nistune chip/software so I think that the ecus would be much the same with maybe very minor variations. Not sure what would be causing your problem may be worth putting old ECU back in and getting the one you bought checked out

You don't want backpressure on a turbo car

I had threaded it out real far to make sure it didn't make any more boost than actuator pressure on new turbo. Unfortunately didn't realise it was right on the edge of the thread. I noticed I had lost it the day before tuning the car so unfortunately was only able to tune on actuator pressure

Need to give big props to Turbotech for customer service. I have had a Turbotech MBC for a good while now and recently I lost the bolt and spring from the controller. Sent Turbotech an email on Ebay to see if I could buy the bits seperately and they straight away just offered to send them to me for free not even charging for postage. Very impressed by them

Sounds very similar to boost cut I was getting when tuning my car the other week but then your car shouldn't be hitting 14+ psi so I don't know

Could have a running car for $5k but it wouldn't be anywhere near what his car is going to be and sounds as though he paid that little that if he wanted he could get a stock rb25 motor drop it in and still have done well

I don't know a whole lot about tuning but I believe they will have to pull timing so at least off boost it will be doughy how bad that will be i have no idea. If your on stock injectors you will only be looking at 220rwkw's or thereabouts before they top out anyway so should be ok would be kind of interesting to see how it performs

8/6 too hard? what is wrong with you guys? The standard 8/6 on the BC's is fine it's a bit harsh but nothing too bad I have them with uprated swaybars and daily my car as well as drifting. If anything I'd prefer a bit stiffer say 10/8 or even thicker swaybars but I am happy with current setup. From memory I have 24mm and 22mm swaybars

Kuhmo Ku36 I believe are in this range as are the federal RSR or EVO's whchever they are. $150 isn't all that cheap should be able to get a reasonable tyre for the money

Wow you have more motivation then me lol I would have my car sit there till I could get it tuned

Sounds as though it's already been somewhat tuned to suit. You upgraded from stock injectors? If so there's no way it would of run ok without any tuning. Someone on here tested theirs on idle got overconfident and was lucky to limp the car home after going around the block far too much fuel

Today I am sorting few things out on my car for a tune tomorrow and I found my Turbotech manual boost controller had lost it's screw and ball adjustment piece. If someone in Brisbane area has one they aren't using and wants to sell please hit me up asap on 0423 424 834. If I can't get one will just need to tune on actuator pressure

Wanted to make sure I replied to this topic cause I know I hate it more than anything when I find a topic with almost the same problems and no final resolution

This was the problem cheers for that guys. Took it for a long drive tonight (after doing fuel pump rewire) and had zero problems all ready to be tuned up on Sunday now

Cheers mate will do your way and if i have issues rewire as necessary. Not pushing the pump that hard (similar power to what you have

So you don't need to take the pump back out and replace that wiring also? I really don't want to do that if i don't need to

I have installed a bosch fuel pump and haven't changed the wiring from stock so I guess that is a possibility. Still seems strange to start doing it when warm but I guess it is possible the ECU drops the fuel pump voltage when no longer in cold start due to needing less fuel? I have basic stuff installed: Fuel pump Atr43 turbo FMIC splitfire coilpacks (also have fairly new copper spark plugs in there i'd say <1000k's old) Nistune Most other stuff is stock ATM have got injectors that will be going in soon as well as Z32 AFM Oh also when changed spark plugs I changed the fuel filter and air filter

My r34 GTT has decided to develop a miss under 2k rpm but only when warm and only when under load (2nd gear with large amount of throttle will do it, 3rd and 4th gear is much worst). There are no error lights on the dash and car works perfectly while still warming up issue only begins once at operating temperature. I also have no problems at higher revs at all comes on boost well and revs throughout without any problems. I am stumped as to what could be causing this.Have had a look around to see if anything seems to be out of place (have changed the turbo a fair while back now) but don't see any obvious problems. Anyone got any ideas as to what would cause something like this? Seems to be very specific in the parameters it needs to cause the issue

Agreed really is not worth it

Are those samsung battery specs accurate? Good battery life is a big selling point for me and that shows the Samsung to have a massive advantage

Videos like that scare you so much. It's like hearing about flywheels letting go and coming through the cabin you would think there is a pretty high chance of the driver getting hit if that happens would not be pretty