BenA31

yea i thought increase the noise too from 3" front and dump.......

3 Wire oxygen sensor (stock code=23011), price was $99 inc GST The oxygen sensor had the plug already on it, so required no wiring to be cut or soldered. was simply unplug old one and in goes the new! Coolant temp sensor (think its a boosh one, non nissan)(stock code = 0280130026) Injector parts set (stock code=9122067011), price for both sensor and wiring parts set were $19.80 incl GST because the sensor i got was not genuine nissan it was a univeral plug that fitted, though all that was needed for the wiring was to cut the nissan plug off the wiring put the two wires into these two clips that were in the parts set which slides nicely over the temp sensor, was very easy and does the job. Except only note, though i'm 99% sure it wasn't the temp sensor fault, but ive still got a few problems wth cold start but have traced it to the wiring circuit of the temp sensor, and i beleive my sensor was never at fault in first place. I'm going to re wire the sensor directly to the computer today and see how it goes.

well i've done a bit of checkin of things. did compression test got 140,145,145,150,140,140 or somthing similar (btw was on a guage that was a bit out as it was reading 50 even when not in use so basically we were just minusing the 50 from the readings to get what i got). Does that sound about right for a 1989 rb20det with about 170,000kms on the clock? also noticed that one of the coil packs is actually one from a rb25 and had different numbers on it, so i'm guess its the problem causing the missfire. the banging when cold is actually a backfire which i double checked with some mates who also believe it is. Also as its still reading code 13 coolant temp sensor circuit, we believe that the problem for the coldstarts till about the norm temp of >60 degrees are probally been caused from the wiring as i've changed the sensor. so tomor i'm prob gonna get around to replacing coil pack and re hardwiring the sensor in to the computer directly with some new wire and see how it goes.

well after doin a quick search i believe its either a T25 or T28 with a T3 flange.

yeah when i saw that car earlier today i think i got a little too excited!! i ****in love the look of it, i wanna get a kit on my 4dr 32!

i've been having a problem with my RB20Det l8ly where it runs like bog till it reaches the normal temp mode. To be sure it will run right i have to let car sit and idle for about 10min everyday b4 i drive it, much sooner and it won't rev freely but feel rather like the exhaust is clogged and then backfires at the engine end. When i try to drive it b4 its fully heated it simply won't go and has absolutly no power, hesitates alot!! And wierd thing is as soon as its fully heated at about normal operating temp on the temp guage, it runs fine, revs fine and everything, if anything just a little hesitent for a few kms then disappears but still keeps the annoying intermintent missfire what would be the problem? temp sensor or CPU cold start? on the diagnostics it keeps coming up with code 13 (coolant temp sensor) and is still after i've replaced the temp sensor with a new one. What should i look for now?

from what i believe, its a T28 non bb with ceramic wheel, thou don't quote me on that one.

dude i think the guy is in canada not NSW

yeah i wouldn't mind know where to get the remote oil filter kits from either...........anyone?

how much for the Computer and engine wiring loom?

i'll be interested early next month if you haven't sold it by then. well anyway, free bump for ya!

i'm looking into getting a guard roller soon (in process of enquiring about them), and yes you do have to heat the paint and metal before doing it to ensure the paint doesn't crack. I'll let ya all know if i get it.....

yeah pretty sure it sounds like the thrust bearing. i got the noise on mine really faintly when the clutch is depressed and i'm sitting with the car in netural. nothing really too big to worry about.

i did mine myself, cost me 99 bucks from petroject (and no wiring involved, the plug is already on it) and it was simply the case of removing the heatshield off the turbo and getting a spanner and taking the bugger off and switching it over, wasn't too difficult......don't pay someone to do it, save the dosh. btw go to http://www.petroject.com.au/ to find the contact details and as it states on the site "Function: The oxygen sensor is an essential component of the engine management system. It is used by the ECU to monitor the air/fuel ratio of the engine providing tighter control of engine emissions and improving fuel consumption."

are they stock or aftermarket shocks on the R32?

or just tow it with another car at 2am. doubt cops are gonna get ya for towing a car at 2am, its only 10km

what the hell is dry joints? i'm guessing bad connections where the solder cracks?

yeah you probally mean this one - she was the girlfriend of the guy in the blue mazda, the bastard swapped seats with her when the cop busted them all.

anyone????????

Dunno yet as only put it in last night. Do you think i should notice a difference in fuel consuption? i'll keep an eye out on that.

yeah from experience don't remove the mesh. Well my problem is now fixed. Firstly tried cleaning it, which failed to work, so got my hands on another AFM, and now it runs so much better and even now has a stable idle. Though even better was that i've also just replaced my O2 sensor, spark plugs and regapped to 0.8 , coolant temp sensor, and cleaned out my ACC valve, and holy shiet, it runs so much better. Very pleased now!!

well looks like my original post was wrong. was no import at all from what i recall on it. and as Jive said, alot of muzza's and bogans, plus shiet loads of commonhores. haha was actually quite funny watching the stupidity of some people. even more the point of going to the one location on a weekly basis. of coarse the cops are gonna catch on soon enough. LoL. and what a pisser that the cops set up a camera after the road block, and the stupid morons were caught speeding aswel. haha i hope they cop it bad as that was a disgrace.

i'm looking at doing my timing on my car tomor for the first time. just wondering what the stock timing should be set at for a R32 gtst? is it 15+ degrees? and is like SR20s where the first marker is -5 degrees not 0? for example does it go -5, 0, 5, 10, 15,20??? also where is the marker it has to align up with?? for example, on my mates 180sx it had a little line which you could check it with. cheers ben

Yeah i'd have to agree with ya on that. Thou it shits me when old people see these reports and when they hear a car with a slightly louder exhaust then normal drive past and think - "oooh theres another one of those illegal street racers up to trouble again", ahh ****em all. and **** authority.

Thanks, but already found one.