AlexanderWilde

ok so im planing to change my lower control arm bushings as well as my v35 is starting to bug me with the Creek noise. i seem to notice it as usual when going over a Bump or pothole but i took note that if i keep the brake on and while in drive or reverse if i give it just a little gas so that the car pushes the suspension up or down it creaks as well. here is a video someone filmed that is identical to my issue . im 90% sure this si from the bushels but should i change all or just the lower rear ones as most forums posts

Mate ! save the money and check your alighnment of your front quarter pannels and the bonnet itself. mine did the same and all i had to do is re lighn it

3) check the boddy lines usualy if the panels are closer at 1 end or more distant from eachother then the pannels have been taken off and placed back. not a must but this usualy indicates repairs or replacements. also if you look at the screws where the quarter pannels are connected in the engine bay if you see that the screw was undone and redone or sometimes the lines where it used to be and then painted over that is another indication repair or repaint was done. check engine bay paint collor as some spray painters wont remove the engine to paint the engine bay so you may notice new paint lines defining the old paint from the new one 5) Get RACV Check is good to make sure there is no loans or encumberance on the car. but other than that you wont know if it was a whreck in Japan and fixed up and sent over for cheap. i think u may need to do your due diligence when it comes to picking the importer. 7) Never heard of an importer bring a car and not provide a import cert to the owner. then again murder still happens in this day and age. im a second owner of my v35 and i called the original importer and asked them for teh certificate and after 2 years from import day the guys still had it on record and faxed it thru.

In Sydney i found Tempe tires to be the cheapest option and from what i understand they import the rubber directly from manufacturer. i got my Khumos from them for $160 each and everywhere else including BOBJANE and Jax tires who are meant to price match said they can only do it for $240 for the same rubber. RRP $300 each Check out Ebay store for Tempe tires as they sometimes put up specials including balance, fitment , alignment and the works if you buy 2 or more tires

solution: 1st tell her the tires were over inflated before and so the car was sitting just slightly higher and at the last service you put the Tyre pressure at the correct one so now it touches 2nd tell her it may be the extra weight she put on. Or that you got heavy stuff in the boot like a new Wheel 3rd just man up and tell her you modified your car cus you want it like that Now for a bit of a drilling : car wash = Swirl marks, bad scratches and worst of all chemical wash = bad PH for the paint all of these will half the life of your paint. Lowering your car: 1 won’t make it faster or add any HP (the same way painting your calipers Red will add 5 hp ) 2nd Direction needs to be checked as the camber will change and this brings a shitload of issues like Stability , under steer or over steer , and my pet hate uneven worn tires. give it 6 months like this and you will wake up with unused outer thread on the tire and ball rubber on the inside

as in the : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/ the best i have used and still use is Penrite SIN 600 (super DOT 4) realisticaly brake fluid is still brake fluid you will only see minor differences but for the best results i do recomend either the Penrite 600 or MOTUL.

search for importers in QLD and call one to see if they have a service department and if they can help you out with some advice i hear there are a few in Brisi

not sure if they would be different as i myself never had to deal with this on the V35's but considering you have 4 door and 2 door versions as well as auto and manual there may be differences. i would try and find a mechanic that works with import cars or a customs shop and see if he can help you. take your time and do your research. As for Nissan …. Get a gun next time and tell the wanker he should shoot himself with it. 1st and last time I talked to a Nissan Steallership was when I asked for a cam shaft sensor and they wanted $600 … I ended up ordering it from the States for $50 from a genuine USA Nissan dealer. And it took me 15 min to replace Ausie Nissan dealers are just a joke

I’m going to assume you unplugged the throttle body from the car. bummer i haven't been on the forum for a while. if you unplug it you have to do the relearn procedure or it will act up as you said. i clean my throttle body every second service and all i do is get some carby cleaner and remove the 4 intake, then unscrew the 4 bolts that hold it down (make sure not to lose the mettal wassher ) get a microfibre cloth and clean the throttle body and the little butterfly inside it. ( all this without disconnecting it from the car.and have a read of the G35 forums as there's heaps of info on the matter: http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06/402719-how-i-fixed-my-throttle-body-after-cleaning.html

from the description of the noise : it seems to be a baring. the reason it will be on the left hand side of the car is also detectable from the turning noise if you turn left the inertial force is greater on the opposite wheel IE you turn left but the right wheel gets the most pressure exerted on it. The opposite happens when you turn Right Ie the greter the force is exerted on the left wheel. hence the reason the issue is with the left wheel. think of it this way when you turn left your body tends to lean right and vice versa. if ur unsure take the car to a wheel and suspension specialist and they can check it out but id say by the sounds of it the diagnosis was correct .

try Team K Kustoms ask for Marcus http://www.teamk-kustoms.com.au/ or Try Concord Customs http://www.concordcustoms.com.au/secure/ i have Dealt with both and the service is impecable

1st before you open stuff up go to Jaycar electronics and ask the guys for Electrical cleaner and lubricant in aerosol can it will be in a can with a little nozzle . its alcohol based and its meant for electrical boards so its safe, i used before for buttons where there was stiky crap making in it the brand i use is Servisol and is in a yelow can. works like a charm http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NA1012

Id Say check your belts for tears if loose. power stearing is on one of them. you dont want to have the big one snap while your driving. aside from that just get somone outside to listen to it since you have it on while in Park as well. the V35's are notorious for directing external road and engine noises to the interiour so it may sound to you inside or behind dash but may actualy be in the engine compartment. and check if the noise is there with aircon on and off as it can even bee a leaf stuck in teh airvents. seen that one before as well.

preferably on a sunday or later in the day as most of us work

have you considered a full service to spec ? i.e. new spark plugs (when was the last time you changed them if you have changed them) check them for incorrect gaps in the electrode and corrosion or carbon residue 2 - Check your throttle body for build-up gunk and carbon as that can actually become sticky and slow down ur throttle body from opening fast 3 - Check the injectors as these can get filled up with crap from the petrol tank. and it will push less petrol then needed 4 - check oil viscosity and if it looks sludgy an thick then you may need to give it a clean ( getting a qualified mechanic to do this will be expensive but a proper reconditoning will make it like new) there are a few products that say they can clean the engine before service that you add in the old oil and drive for a few min before service and oil replacement but i would be weary as they can cause engine wear and possibly more bad than good. 4 - When you have your service done do you have the fluids especially oils flushed and replaced or just the common drain and replace. i won’t go into the benefits of a full flush before new oil but its stuff like this that with time will eat up on ur power. 5 - i find that usually the maintenance kept on the car including previous owners can affect the performance more than you think Also good thing to keep in mind the V series skylines are quite heavy and last time i checked the Accord euro was quite a bit lighter so depending on weight and age of the car the accord may have more power to weight than an older v35 but like i said this depends allot on the maintenance i have seen a v35 pushing barely 100kw on the dino before service and a healthy 180kw after. and yes the engine inside was full of gunk from oil that was left to long and not flushed propperly. the mechanic had to plug it in a special machine and flush it as high presure with a cleaning product and then new oil , new spark plugs , and new injectors as 2 of the old ones were almost useless.

you can get yourself a copy of the workshop manual here: http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/ depending on year and body type check the IP section (instrument Pannel ) page 20 or 21 depending on transmision: http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2004/ip.pdf good luck

it should have a slide insert that should just easiley come out the same way as the cup holders in the middle betwen the front seats do. if you dont have the insert then the P.O. has most likely lost it and continued to use the actual body where the actual ashtray was meant to go if thats the case only way to wash it is to remove the center console Fascia and well unscrew it from the inside i guess. or take shit out by hand and a cloth. yuck try and take a picture of the ashtray open and we can tell you if the ashtray is missing

the Ausie Representative is Nahux Technology Pty Ltd U3/ 806 Beaudesert RdCoopers Plains, QLD, 4108 (07) 3216 6498 From What i have heard and seen thru Aquointances the Parts seem to be good Quality only coments i had from mates are if you got a problem dont expect much help from them as they seem to be more of an importer rather than manufacturer here in Oz (not 100% sure) so dont expect great technical support but you can always contact the US representative as for parts Quality they are much better than your made in China / hong kong ones. then again they ahve over 5000 Positive coments and only about 30 negative ones on Ebay so id say they should be prety safe and as Scotty sayd Flex Joins are worth heaps so id go for it !

Ok so it does tend to depend on Location (where you park your car) Age and Driving record - These are the bigest factors that will tip the cost for insurance. the cheapest and safest (will actualy honour a Claim with little or no drama ) are NRMA, JustCar and AMMI (Note Justcar is a subsidiary or AMMI ) i found the Best thing to do is get quotes from online sites such as Bingle or Budget Car insurance then call NRMA and just car insurance and play them against eachother in a bid to get the lowest price I curently have my V35 insured with NRMA for Agreed Value of 35,000 and i only pay $130/month and that includes mods and Glass insurance and im under 25 companies that give better deals like Budget direct have small disclaimers in the policies that state even if ur not at fault you have to pay an excess then once the claim has been formalised and the other party pays the cost of the repairs you get the excess reinbursed (my Gf copped that and is in the contract) Basicaly you pay the excess if they cant get the money back from the other person! I found GIO and Alianz take forever to get back to you and drag on the process,I Even have had a close relative under investigation and took 2 months to get the process approved, thats 2 months without a car. each person has and will have diferent expiriences but if you troll the forums enough you will find what you want and best suits you. and make sure you read the dam fineprint

send the seller a question asking if it works on Vq30DD also keep in mind the cost to have it shipped here from US before you order it

Id talk to a Barister as that to me looks like an easy case to winn by the fact you got hit in a roundabout on the left side (pasanger side ) this indicates his failuire to properly give way . simple as that its black and white ! no matter if you were hooning or not and even so that needs to be prooven as a separate offence as it itself did not cause the accident. the proof is in the puding ! (your door)

i plan to buy a set of these in a couple of months :http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-DRL-Angel-Eyes-Projector-Head-Lights-NIISAN-INFINITY-G35-V35-350GT-Coupe-2D-/130689091251?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6dad46b3 but id give them a call 1st to see if everything matches your car. they are located in Vic from what i see and they should be for RHD cars

id try posting that question on the 350z forums as well

the loud noise may be that one of the pads isn't sitting well in the slot check them properly by taking the wheels of and having a look also you mentioned having your rotors machined , If your rotors are warped or uneven, this will make a squealing sound did you put anti squeal compound before you installed the pads? it can dampen the vibrations that cause squealing. its a bluish looking liquid that you apply the the back of the pad where it contacts the piston do not stop to 0km when biding as it will leave marks on the rotor and cause squeaking and damage ur rotors surface have a read of this article as everyone i know has done this and worked like a charm : http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

I had mine done by the guys at solartint and they user a big clip to hold the little sensor on the dor wall down so the window was up at all times, i left the car in the morning while i went to work and it was a sunny day so the guys had the car in the shop most of the day with the doors open allowing for the glue to dry with the windows up for over like 6 hours this was more than enough to set the guy i spoke to said about 2 hours with a bit if heat and it wont move as long as you dont try to move or peal it. and generaly after 24 hours if it didnt budge its safe to say its stuck well