jiffo

You got any thing like this?

Check that the length of the adjusting cam wheel bolts aren't too long.

I doubt an aftermarket ecu would need the speed signal to the extent that the stock one does. Someone else could perhaps confirm that info. It doesn't go into safe mode, hard to explain what it does but power delivery varies from day to day, seat of the pants stuff. Here's a partial scan from an old Zoom mag. They experienced the same problem and eventually sorted it. Like I said, tricked much smarter blokes than me as well.

You have a 20 gearbox??? it's got a cable drive speedo. At the speedo head there's a reed switch which generates the speed signal pulse for the ecu. But speed signal is the fine tuning stuff. Your engine will run fine and "most" of the time never miss not having a speed signal. Certainly not the cause of a high idle. Neutral switch is closest to the shifter, reverse switch is closest to the bell housing. Both are simple on/off switches. Pin 43 gets it's signal straight from the start position of the IGN key. It's NOT a constant 12V feed, only an input while the engine is cranking. Air con and power steer inputs only bump up idle a small amount. With your engine idling at such high rpm they'd have no effect even if they were connected and incorrectly switched. I had presumed they were not connected. By a rough check of timing I meant are the cams lining up with their respective dots at TDC and is the CAS central in its adjusting slots. Running out of ideas……..

Pin 18 won't cause any grief to the ecu, but you need to somehow control the fuel pump and using this pin is the best way. When the engine stops, your fuel pump must also stop/time out. (You don't want fuel pumping in the event of a crash) Pin 43 starts the timer for the fuel pump. It also re-sets at every IGN start signal. (I always believed the ecu would not continue without this signal, must have been wrong on that one) Pin 53 input is vital once you get the car moving. The ECU will operate OK without a speed signal but after a while it gets confused. It see's RPM, TPS, AFM and so on but no speed. It thinks you're sitting still and free revving. You will have inconsistent power delivery without a speed signal input as the ecu will eventually pull timing. (Many, many smarter blokes than I have been fooled by this one) Pin 104 is for the fuel pump control module and won't have any effect if left unconnected. Pin 44 (neutral switch) won't effect your engine as it's a Normally Open switch when in gear. But if you were using HICAS etc then you wouldn't be able to do self checks without this input. Reverse switch has no input to the ecu. You need to do thorough testing for vacuum leaks if it still idles so high. These are a tiny engine and only need a small amount of air when idling, so it doesn't take much of a leak to raise the idle. How many inches Hg does it pull when idling and have you got your IGN timing as correct as you can with these crazy RPM's?

Agree, back off the throttle cable a touch before you get too carried away.

Although cars like Commos and Falcons were relatively simple machines, one could buy a Haynes, Gregory's or factory workshop manual and do some reading. Can't do that these days. When the 32 GTR was released, it cost $1100 Au for a workshop manual, I still payed $500 from Nissan a few years back. The first Rb20 I dropped into a VB was all wired in using multi meter, no pin-outs available back then. Wife has an i-30, can't buy a workshop manual. Best choice is a pretty useless CD from the States. So when the "experts" service the car, it's all a guess as most of them seem limited to oil changing. These things really are a throw away vehicle once the 5-year warranty expires. And this is only petrols. With Euro 6 diesels it's all but over. Anyone wanting a long life simple technology engine can no longer think diesel.

You didn't report on how the adjusting went. You can see in your photo, the clevis isn't even in line with the push rod, it's bent up. The push rod is usually tapped into the clevis for adjustments, the locknut just follows down and is nipped up once the settings are correct. I wonder if you got the wrong master cylinder as that clevis looks very short. Not much adjustment before the end of the push rod is hard against the pedal which will then jamb and cause the clevis to bend.

Is it the same filter thread as the Rb30? Can get those from Nissan.

Have any of you blokes experimented with these ceramic beads (inserted via the valve stem) to automatically balance a tyre? Sounds pretty trick. Apparently mine dump trucks use big steel balls. Their tyres tend to tear off massive chunks of rubber and by using the balls the wheel always stays balanced. http://www.abcbeads.com.au/#!tech-reports/cfcw

Have a closer look at your clevis and push rod. ' From the photo I think the end of the push rod is actually rubbing against the pedal arm, think I can see some shiny metal on the arm. It may be adjusted incorrectly and the pedal arm is actually doing the pushing on the push rod, not the clevis. Then when you release the pedal, the push rod follows out and at some point clicks as it takes up the slack in the clevis pin.

There's a few different styles of clutch, should be this one with luck: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168895-r32-aircon-pulley-bearing/?hl=%2Baircon+%2Bclutch

Haven't heard of igniter dropping all 6, usually they just develop a miss when she's hot. I'd be checking AFM and associated wiring. By far the quickest way to trouble shoot these rockets is to swap items with known working examples, rather than mucking about with multi meters etc.

25-year old ceramic turbos and excessive boost, not necessarily the k's travelled. (or wound back)

Here's some info, let me know if you find any errors and I'll check.

When this happens, do you see 2-black lines on the road behind you? Seriously though, sounds like a turbo to manifold gasket. They can make some crazy noises and mostly only start to play up once boost builds.

My info shows a trimatic as 1:1 (direct) in top gear. With stock tyres that gives> 4.3 diff ratio > 100kph = 3580rpm 4.1 diff ratio > 100kph = 3450rpm. 3.8 diff ratio > 100kph = 3200rpm.

Should fair piss out so your pump may be feeble, blocked filter etc. It should still fire though if there's fuel there. Have you tried any start you bastard etc to see if it wants to fire.

I've had them start with the most feeble pumps, wouldn't try for a power run of course. But have you got the fuel coming and leaving the fuel manifold correctly? If you can smell fuel I guess you have it OK.

Have you got fuel at the injectors? Wouldn't be the first to have the fuel lines wrong way around.

Those Snap On valve collet remove/replace tools you've shown are the go. Don't go feeding rope etc down the bore, just set her at TDC for each PAIR of cylinders you're working on. Be sure to lock the crank, it will spin off TDC otherwise. Take lots of care, no collets down oil drain holes or valve springs shot off into space. Old valve stem seals tend to disintegrate too so watch that gunge.

25 into what car?

Mate you're on the Sunny Coast, drive her up to Nambour. Farrows Shafting Service, Mill Lane, 54417277 It would be very strange for the transfer case spline drive to worn, most likely the peened-in style universal joints. Clearance issues are the problem with a front shaft but Farrows can modify ANYTHING and prices are excellent. It's a good idea to take the car, not just the shaft and then he'll put it over the pit and realise the tight fit, can't just use any old yokes or they'll hit the sump.

What gearbox are you using? 100kph at 4000 means top gear is extremely under driven or your rpm's are reading way wrong. Using that same gear box and swapping to a 3.8 diff ratio from the 4.3 will only drop 100kph to 3500rpm, More info needed.

A suggestion, try to list the sequence of events, otherwise we're just guessing. eg Car was running perfectly and I only fitted a new turbo, now she won't start. OR Fitted new turbo, manifold, cam belt etc, etc Just a heads up, TDC/firing on No1 will have all No1 valves closed. TDC/firing on No6 will have inlet and exhaust valves swapping over on No1.