jiffo

Fan clutch hub and alternator belt pulley are both spigoted on the water pump shaft, some gentle jiggling will have it loose. Perhaps you've moved it slightly and it's jambed a bit crooked? Pays to loosen the alternator belt to remove load on the pulley.

And doing it back up???? don't tell me....... rattle gun.

Some info from the manual.

R34 GTR diff ratio is around 3.6, might be confusing the model.

Two types of pumps. Boom pump or a line pump. In this case the line pump would be fine, they're also cheaper. Good thing with any pump is you score an extra man. Your concretor mate will know a pump operator and will usually organise the whole show.

7.6+ metres? Don't think too many of you guys have wheeled concrete. A full to the brim barrow holds 0.2 mtrs, well the first few do after that they hold less and less. Hold the truck up filling barrows and you're paying waiting time. Mini mixes, nope, not long enough chutes to do that job, you'll either be shovelling lots or driving on your reo. Go the pump.

Pump, don't even think about wheeling it.

Why's it got an Rb20 plenum?

No idea Terry, probably the same argument could apply to run flats? I think their price will be through the roof though, great for the military with unlimited budgets but I have my doubts about use by the average car owner. Already we have tyre companies refusing to re-fit tyres older than 5 years. Those of us with garage queens are in trouble as soon as a tyre repair is needed, we have to source a 'suitable' tyre fitter/balancer. No doubt these things will have a long "spoke" life with Michelin applying the equivalent of a Bandag onto worn out units. I imagine they'd brand them NWR after a certain number of Bandags or years, same as they do presently with conventional cases. Bit hard to let your 4X's tyres down on the beach though.

I can't think of any company that makes a sequential setup really worth all the effort. With modern turbo design, a single just makes everything neater and if you're that hung up on milli seconds of lag, you shouldn't be on the street anyway. Ever humped the exhaust manifold, turbos, gates, valving etc from a 2JZ. It's bloody heavy and stupidly complicated. They're prone to sticking so the primary turbo ends up doing all the work, secondary doing nothing. You think your Skyline exhaust manifold studs are working hard, they're holding a fraction of the weight compared to a sequential, and all the additional manifold struts don't help with the thermal expansion. In a truck engine with maybe a 1000rpm usable rev range, the complications of sequential and exhaust recovery turbines are accepted whereas any modern car engine has a much larger usable rev range. Cat C-15 Acert went the sequential route, Detroit DD15 went single turbo plus exhaust recovery turbine. Cat is buried under lawsuits, clients suing for loss of income...........while MTU Detroit powers on.

We first saw these things on military spec Hummers. Now supposed to be available to the general public in August.

I think the OP asked the wrong question, should have asked how useful are the rear doors. Answer is, excellent. And not just for the obvious easy rear seat access, it's the shorter front doors that really make the difference. The seating position in a coupe combined with the much longer door means you have to open those doors a long way to get in/out. The shorter front doors of the 4-door make it a dream in crowded parking spots. Only downside with any 4-door is the huge number of window etc controls on the driver's door and of course you have a lot more door and window rubbers that will be showing their age, all expensive items to replace.

Here's what the window regulator looks like on a 33. The motor rarely gives any trouble but the gearbox is a different story. You could pull it apart to check if the nylon gear has lost teeth and jambed things up which is the usual fault.

Opps, just read all of your post #3 and there's a master cylinder problem. If it keeps making air, needs an overhaul/replacement. I never bother with kits for hydraulic items, either buy new or get them re-sleeved in stainless.

Remove the rubber dust boot and have a look in there with a torch. The fact that the pedal is staying down suggests the throw out lever isn't returning fully. The Skyline clutch pedal return spring goes over centre which actually helps the pedal to go down. Without full return from the slave, throw-out lever etc the pedal won't come back up.

Check the obvious things, snapped throw out lever, broken pedal etc. So many slave cylinders is just crazy.

Irrespective of the stud material chosen, you need to closely inspect the clearances. Use a straight edge to check for warp and if in doubt take the manifold to a machine shop. Old manifolds such as these will have stress relieved themselves and you may now find there's nowhere for the stud to move in the slotted holes. You'll notice the manifold holes at the centre cylinders are almost round whereas cylinders 2 and 5 have longer slots, 1 and 6 longer again. The slots are to allow for manifold movement when hot and if the studs are locking the manifold, they'll snap off. Dry fit up the manifold and check that the elongated manifold holes are not at the end of their slot. If they are you'll have to do some round file work. Next check the spot facing region when the thick washer is installed. The thick washer can get hung up on the spot facing and again if there's nowhere for the manifold to move, snapped stud.. A die grinder will soon relieve any excess. While the manifold is off check the turbo studs are in tight as it's very common for them to loosen.

Am I missing something? GTR's don't run a centre diff unless you're building a special transfer case using parts from some constant 4WD?

The way you said the light came on after an hour of driving, then stop, key off/on and all good again sounds to me like the steering angle sensor. Have you got an aftermarket steering wheel? That's the most common cause with the boss incorrectly aligned. Car thinks you're turning a huge diameter circle and then after a while it throws a fault. Most often seen when highway driving. (straight ahead) As for the ecu, you've swapped over everything else from a GTR, may as well go for the Rb26 PFc too. They're pretty cheap 2nd hand.

What's this in an Rb25? No need to split the plenum to remove injectors in a 25. But for cost to have it welded (properly) you could have bought something 2nd hand.

Won't blow white smoke unless the gasket has gone across to a combustion chamber too. If the gasket has only gone oil > water you'll see oil in the coolant. Not an easy one to test, especially with the stock heat exchanger also a suspect.

Plenty of room beside the factory sensors on a 25. Would be simple to trigger the relay via an internal switch if you want to run the fans manually.

Here's a link to some old info, although many members are still using oils listed in the tests. Shows that most owners are wasting $$$ big time. Many of our everyday cars are at an age where something like Shell Helix Semi Synthetic is perfectly fine. I think the Valvoline Durablend Synthetic was the most surprising of all, apart from the performance of Mobil 1. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Series/parallel relays will run your fans at two speeds. I don't like using the bottom tank thermo switch to trigger fans, overtemp switch perhaps. I prefer to mount the main thermo fan switch beside the ecu temp probe.

All looks pretty normal, even still got the tab washers. Pull off the heat shield and keep going because for sure there'll be manifold studs gone too. Do all that work properly and you won't know the same car.