skylinekid

dont be a cheap bastard and just got buy an r33 turbo motor... simple

bcuz 1 sensor for one turbo ya dont need 2 plus i dont wanna have to run more wiring capeesch

on closer inspection i have noticed that the 2 sensors for rb26 have to different plugs hence to not cofuse fron turbo with rear turbo sensors id say. the good thing is the 2nd sensor has the same connector as the rb25 so it will just be plug and play. but i will double check its functioning and not just hope it is lol. thnx for all the help guys much appreciated.

but just for shits and giggle i want the 02 sensor in there and functionable neways..... i have been doing sum reasearch and according to a couple of ppl the gtr sensor when the car is started the internal heater is on until car is hot then heater is turned off.... gtst sensor heater is constantly on also i have been told sum of the gtr sensor came with 4 wires not 3.... so yeh got me stumped for the minute lol and as i said earlier i would just bridge the 2 inputs so i can get a reading for both and just even it out but yeh im aware thats its not needed for tuning with power fc. the main thing i need to know is if i can or cant use the 25 sensor to a 26 computer thats my only issue

yes but i want fuel economy aswell...... so says paul earlier.... and like i said i would bridge the wires for the 2 02 sensor inputs on computer.... shouldnt be to hard.....

well with the knock setting there is a max value as to wen the engine light will flash.... aka u set to 80 u cop a light in the face at 80 knock lol if uve never mucked round with it b4 its prolly best u leave it to sumone whos done this sorta stuff b4 ya dont wanna mess with sumthing and kill ur motor.... unless u got sum skilled friends lol good luck with it bud

maby u should go see a tuner down there and get it diagnosed incase.... cant hurt either that or if u tune it urself pull out timing up top and see if ur knock decreases if so u may need a tune.... riteo

after my hours of pointless driving getting to know my car i regularly had knock values as high as 90 but only in certain situations.... plus u could get a bad dose of petrol and ur knock value would increase. i find i could consistently make it knock if i sat in 5th on the highway at about 100 and having a fairly big turbo it would lag until about 130 but from 100 to 130 it would knock on and off from 15 to 90 only a test i dont do it regularly. but as for knock at idle thats a lil odd maby u have a lil bit of valvetrain noise coming through sumwhere could be nethin.... as even sumthing like a lil rock hitting the sump can cause a knock reading to go ballistic...

thnx paul im running an apexi power fc d-jetro

hey everyone im currently puttin a rb26 into a gtst and im using the 25 harness.... is basically the same except for knock sensor plugs.... in regard to using one single 02 sensor im unsure if i could use the rb25 sensor and it will compute properly with the 26 computer.... unsure if they are the same band width as such. thye different i see is the plug and the wires are different coulours 25= white red black 26= white white black apart from that does neone know if it would work thnx and yes im aware i will have to splice wires since im running single turbo setup..

my thoughts exactly

if its an r34gtr and they've used cheap an nasty cam gears wat a knob u'd own a 50 to 60g car so u'd do it right with decent gear... lol

no offence but if u can manage to install cam gears the wrong way wat a f*kin muppet..... i could see that as almost impossible because the company who made the cam gears would have only made the gears with writing on one side that makes no sence at all... i repeat muppet

ive had the clutch for the last 8months and the plates are worn quite abit on outer edges therefore flywheel has never been machined... im building the motor aswell so al seals will be brand new.... the only part im unsure of is if i need to get the suface the same as i originally got it to reduce chances of shudder hence it being a ceramic plated twin plate its always a worry.

twinpower HKS DLI with splitfire coilpacks they do the trick i reckon

therefore after all this poppy wat would be better to have in between the diff and gbox/transfer......????

i have a hks gd-max twin plate clutch and its due for a new set of plates..... does neone know if the flywheels can be machined or just left how they are bcuz u cant touch them.... yeh if neone has ne idea thats much appreciated or who i could call to find out would be gr8 aswell

im keen to know aswell buddy neone got an idea

HAHAHAHAHAHA u got owned........ points and laughs cant argue with the facts

so wat ur saying is go with lightweight for g box and heavy for diff

technically if its for an ecr33 its 3 nuts..... 2 bottom 1 top

yeh but how much of a bastard are they to setup properly

i like tomei... so i guess tomei is the winner

wen i first bought my car it was still stocker with a cooler xaust 14psi and a mines tuned ecu. it was a freak for a stock car it only made 244hp but i was chewing cars with dyno sheets for 290hp and so forth i was very suprised at wat it did for a stocker... i bought it with 97thousand k's on it and they were very hard kilometers as the car was an import x weekend flog car... was cheap enough so i bought it... then i got sick of the power i had and went and put a greddy plenum on it 650hp turbonetics turbo power fc and so forth and was making 340rwhp safely.... the car had 165000km on it and the reason i pulled it was bcuz the rings just started to let go and it started losing compression in #6... i service my car very very regularly call me pedantic but i do it every 3000kms.... oil and filter... i look afta it, it looks afta me. mate skylines motor from wat i have seen are one of the most reliable motors ever built if they are serviced rite and treated to with reason theres no reason y u couldnt possibly get 200000kms out of it... neways mate good luck

u have a car which u cant even put 5 pounds of boost into unless u run av gas ARGHAHAHAHA