rambocarebear

Glad to hear firmware 28 resolved your issues! unfortunately it has not for me... GROM support send me the v28 file as it does not appear to be available on the website. Should I get an RMA on this unit or is it my head unit ?

after the radio unit hangs in CD Changer mode (the display showing track number with minutes and seconds freezes and no controls i.e. volume, seek, next does not respond) turning the car on and off after the unit hangs on me doesnt fix the problem. Usually i leave the car over night and the next morning i will be able to access the CD Changer mode again for a couple of minutes before it hangs again....

sweet. well that got it working... till the unit crashed and now the radio can not recognise the grom unit at all again... surely it is faulty ? or are these units just that buggy?

guys, got my grom usb2 unit in the mail, installed it but my non Bose headunit won't recognize it at all even though the unit charges battery through to my phone. When i hit the cd(disc) button it doesnt flick over to external cd changer as expected. Any ideas?

I had the same problem on my old 33 - turned out to be bad connections in the afm which i re soldered. To my surprise it fixed the bad idling and studdering on accelrate permanently! saved replacing a $200+ part.

Congrats! Would love to see some photos !

sweet. let me know how the 10w40 compares.

Guys, Recently flushed the oil and replaced it with this and ever since the engine sound and whilst driving the car, it doesn't seem to be running at optimum performance. It is very strange. Best way I can describe is as though the performance of the car after the oil change is performing like a car that is due for an oil change... . Anyone able to offer feedback on this ? Am I using the wrong oil ? Car has got 78kms on the odometer

what ended up being the cause if you dont mind me asking.

Awesome wheels, would love to buy a set. If anyone knows anyone selling a set of these please point them in my direction.

Sure does. Let me rephrase - a 'feature'

Thanks ! No proof of km's however the seller mentioned that he was the first owner who purchased it from a dealership in Bayswater who imported it @ 56kms. He purchased it for $26.5K back in early 2011 too so a significant price drop over 2 years . The only evidence that I have supporting the legitimate kms would be that the body kit and specifically the rear bumper has been resprayed which may mean that it was sold in Japan due to cosmetic damage.

Hi Guys, Recently purchased a V35 03' 350gt Pearl White Auto Its got 73kms on the clock and its in decent shape. Its got the typical issues that I have read on the forums such as: ABS grinding noise at the front on first start Door lock actuator playing up But the upside was that I picked it up for 11.5k which appears to be below market price...pending any under discovered problems with the car (touch wood) Photo below:

Hi Mate, Can you please PM me your details ?

Fixed. Had a look at the AFM connections and the soldered joints that connect to the plug broke away (probably due to vibration and age of vehicle) I carefully resoldered them back and now the car has run back to normal for the last 300km.

Thanks for the advice! I checked the error code and go code:55 which means that the computer hasn't reported any issues lol I will check the AFM and report back.

Hey all, Hoping anyone can shed some light and wisdom on my current issue. Background history is that i did clean I've got an R33 RB25DE n/a AUTO (dont laugh, im on my P's) which is idling really badly. It happens when the engine is warm. The car idles between 200-1500RPM. I also noticed that when I am at a set of traffic lights and the car is struggling I have to put it into neutral to prevent it from cutting out the RPM then bounces bewteen 200-1500RPM. Whenever I brake to a halt the car will occasionally cut out while im driving. Also, when I am driving at cruising speed (60-100km/h) and I release the throttle the RPM will drop really low (1000-1200RPM) causing the car to slow down as it is acting as an engine brake. Finally, I noticed that when the idle is bouncing up and down the headlights a dimming !!!! so that really mixes things up.. anyway, I've uploaded a few videos to help better explain my description. In neutral In drive with brake applied Rolling in drive without throttle applied Thanks in advance lads!

woops posted in wrong section, please remove... Sorry!

Hey all, Hoping anyone can shed some light and wisdom on my current issue. Background history is that i did clean I've got an R33 RB25DE n/a AUTO (dont laugh, im on my P's) which is idling really badly. It happens when the engine is warm. The car idles between 200-1500RPM. I also noticed that when I am at a set of traffic lights and the car is struggling I have to put it into neutral to prevent it from cutting out the RPM then bounces bewteen 200-1500RPM. Whenever I brake to a halt the car will occasionally cut out while im driving. Also, when I am driving at cruising speed (60-100km/h) and I release the throttle the RPM will drop really low (1000-1200RPM) causing the car to slow down as it is acting as an engine brake. Finally, I noticed that when the idle is bouncing up and down the headlights a dimming !!!! so that really mixes things up.. anyway, I've uploaded a few videos to help better explain my description. In neutral In drive with brake applied Rolling in drive without throttle applied Thanks in advance lads!

r33 auto getting around 450KM on a full tank with mixed driving after 220,000kms of mileage and a recent fuel filter replacement (saved about 20-3kms/tank)