Marlin

You need a number plate like mine

Sure thing, I know your pain IMO using a gun to wind them on like you do is AOK, but too many guys use guns to tighten them. Not so flash. I also try to support the weight of the gun rather than let it hang off the nut.

Bolt on spacers make me nervous. I've held off using them even on my cheap car. With the weight and grip of the 35 any issues are only amplified. I personally would only be happy to use steel (bolt on) spacers on a 35, and if they weren't available I'd have them made. Sandwich spacers are a different kettle of fish, fine up to 5mm in my opinion if there's plenty of thread left or longer ARP studs are used.

A 34R with the Getrag and 4:11 gears from a 32/33 is great, much much better. Yes, I know and and raced both Highway cruise RPM is still totally fine and relaxed. This mod = perfect.

I tell you guys what IS the absolute best set of wheel nuts (sick aint it ) I've ever seen or used, and that's Project MU's. If money is no object (and this is beer money for you guys), I can't recommend anything more than these. They're steel, but of a hollow design so they are still light, and they have a captive washer on them so they don't bind. We use these on Mark's R34 time attack car, and although the wheels have been on/off literally hundreds of times, they're good as new. Got them from Racer Industries on the Gold Coast. From memory they're around $300 per set. I'll get these next, as they've proven themseves to me as good economy. (Drip a little oil between the washer and the nut itself prior to first use, just as you would tightening head studs, they torque up beautifully) This is the type we use; http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/o..._nut_racing.php

Yeah I have, they hurt when thrown by a man. So I reckon I'm safe.

Why does he persist on running them?

Oh yeah Snowflake, you're a hard carnt.

This soft? Fark that car when fitted with Kuhmos was EPIC in the wet OOPSY!

Cheeky Helen I'd say. She needs a good spanking Timmy.

HAHAHA, nice profile pic mate! You're up for Gold this year too aren't you?

She'll be right, he's just a fly in fly out rock star driver now. Bins them, doesn't even have to get his hands dirty fixing them. Good news is the old 32 is back better than ever, fresh faced, new set of legs, and ready to go! Well, nearly. It's got some of my parts on it to, so some speed may rub off hopefully haha

I've been campaigning quite hard to get some guys to come up, but the timing so close to other major southern events kind of hampers my efforts. I have one more crew that I reckon WILL come though, so that's good!

Eccentric bushes only is my understanding Serge, but I also hear that heaps of people cut and shorten upper arms to get camber (illegal). No idea about the undertray, or if it was even there when I ran the car. MPC took care of the car as you know, maybe they have it because I know they needed to tidy up under the car quite a bit after we used it in 2008. IMO, you're better off making an aluminium one that pushes snugly behind the lower lip, as the factory plastic one very quickly grinds the leading edge off on the road, and turns itself into a huge air scoop, and makes a horrendous flapping noise and bangs the whole car quite violently! First time it happened to us we stopped mid stage because we'd thought a wheel was loose in the wheel well! The factory ones are far too expensive too, but I can assure you, I didn't steal it and take it home with me as carry on luggage See what I mean? Rally Burnie, 2006;

Everyone tipping Eames for Classic? Have you all forgotten how quick Mr Broadbent and Pye are?

Ok, I know nothing about this box you have, so can't offer any more info for you sorry (pretty sure I met you at Eastern Creek a couple of wednesdays ago?). I do know someone who's just removed a perfectly working and quite fresh PPG dog box if you change your mind.

Harsh man, too harsh.

AhhhhHUH! Same guy, nice catch

We made some simple alloy sheet air guides up, just in an effort to guide air toward the centre of the rotor/hub area. 35's are fairly crowded (as are most other 4WD cars) around that area, and aren't as easy to fabricate a really effective ducting arrangment due to those pesky driveshafts while allowing for wheel and tyre clearance on lock. would it be more effective if someone came up with a wheel design mimicking E35 M5's? A case of back, to the future? http://www.bmwmregistry.com/images/E34-M5wheel.jpg http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/q/z/8.png

I concurr, that PWJDM unertray/ducting thingamajig is of no brake cooling benefit, it's yet another shiny thing to capitalise on 35 some owners.

No one is listing Classic proper? (wtf do they call it?! lol) The class that Paul Batten absolutely kicked arse in the old Volvo last year.......

No I haven't, but do you have a pic?

I'd think you'd be fine with either steel or titanium as long as they're a reputable make. Rattle guns are the work of the Devil.

riiiight!

Just replace your standard turbo first. If that fixes it and you enjoy your car in a few months time and it hasn't turned out to be a lemon, think about upgrading then. You'll always recoup your money on the standard turbo when you re-sell it down the track.