SS8_Gohan

it's not quite what you guys think I've got the Qest LED lights in them now, same style as Nismo but brighter LED's and the indicators are LED as well - But the issue is that Qest mount the LED's on white/black or sparkle boards. Black is quite dark, looks cool but the LED's show too much for me - sparkle looks a little silly and white looks almost OEM, but being white background, it's slightly lighter. I just want to get back to the OEM colour, nothing more than that. So at the end of the day, i'm looking for a VERY light tint option.

Just want to archive all my PM's, but i really don't feel like going through them one by one, surely there must be a bulk way of doing it? In older versions, you could tick a whole bunch and then archive-delete them, but i can't seem to find it for this version?

Ok, just wondering what peoples experiences are with tinting tailights? I spoke to my panel workshop, they've 'sprayed' some lights before, but they said it doesn't look good at night and doesn't hang around too well. I wasn't really thinking of spraying, i was thinking of using a film to cover them, so it's nice and uniform. I also don't want to go really dark or that super smoked look some R34's have, i just want to darken them a touch. Is it possible to get a light tint film? Anyways, interested to see what you guys'n'girls have done cheers

Bride Stradia's can be a tight squeeze depending on your build and er.... weight

as much as some lamented the fact the yanks were finally getting the GTR, i'm sure most non-US owners see it as a real positive, increases the market just so much more to allow for these crazy after-market results. Would have been interesting to see how they would have gone had they has the 32-34 R.... seems to be some trash talk in that thread about a TT Lambo? a 1477rwkw lambo?????

1194awkw - dear jeebus.... that is truly monstrous

it can be a tricky thing because even if you think you've applied it all correctly, you don't really know until the next rain/storm event if you've applied it correctly or not, although you should get some sense whilst washing the car, the washing characteristics will give you an idea of how successful the application was. Not much to tell you what's happening at the time of application unfortunately.

good luck... is all i'll say how'd you get him to get you some seats? still in the import/parts game is he?

ahaha, "man this AC is awesome! getting a bit cold though, better turn up the heat" "man this heater is awesome!, getting a bit hold though, better turn up the AC" Oils have come a long way and i for the average driver with a quality synthetic, 3000 miles is ridiculous. Obviously for motorsport people, we follow a diff schedule but for general public the Cali campaign makes a lot of sense. just starting to getting oil testing now and i reckon with results that i get back, i foresee having extended drain intervals when all the good stuff of the oil are still present. Won't mind that at all as good oil is $$

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V. Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

which E85? caltex, united or drum?

kudos to the sponsors, kudos and Pedders Sth Melb is a new addition? dealskis for members?

this but as for what you're talking about, it's actually very common to have that 'step' in the power curve. Get a Nistune, and a decent tuner will be able to sort it out easy. Depending on the mods you have planned, consider getting a Link G4 as well. Where are you located?

most sealants will require different bonding times depending on the weather conditions. Humidity and temperature need to be taken into account. A very rough rule is if it's humid, add an extra minute or so of bonding time, the same for it it's cold. Obviously sealants are all designed differently, so i would imagine if it's a higher end product, they would have accounted for this and provided the correct application procedure info depending on conditions.

your engine went kaputskis?????

hell yeah! liking the non-6:45 start - will aim for 8:30

drags are off people - SnS still on

it'll be a LSP'off

well rain isn't going to affect the rally/motorsport stuff - as for the SnS i think it would still go ahead as well?

what Owgasm is trying to say is he still might have proof of purchase. So don't worry about what is or isn't checked on ebay. . was it paid from a credit card? if so, there's another avenue to dispute with your bank even if paypal says no, you can just say goods/services not received. if you just need the car back on the road etc, and you have a young family as you say (so tight budget)... why not just get a stock second hand turbo? should be cheap as

checked with Sean re moving cars for SnS, as long as you're in by 9am and he hopes to have the judging and what-not done by lunch-time, you're free to come and go (this has been helped by the change of locations away from the thunderdome, so they don't have to worry about rally traffic). So yeah, that's good, because i gotta be at work by 2:30! hahaha

i think i'm going to skip it for the WRX Calder round - one of the things i wanted to do this year was try some diff tracks, and i haven't even been to Calder before, let alone raced. ooohh... first outing for the new R Brandon? if so, you're going to have a ball....

my sensor was reading E80 but there was still maybe 10-15litres of E70 Eflex in there - so it looks just like the old United E85 ie generally on the higher side of E85, like Martin said. all the eflex should be out of the system now, so i'll fill again with United and see where it's at. Let you guys know interestingly though, for the last 5-6 months, Caltex has been bang on E70, never moved when i checked. I wonder why United doesn't control the % as much?

mines anything between 98 and E85, fuel map/timing changes real time depending on the ethanol % what are you running octane booster for? i thought all that stuff was pretty cruddy for the engine, unless you have to for a little extra protection at a track day or something...