SS8_Gohan

i wouldn't stuff around with intakes if you've done the rev210 mod even at .63 rear you won't get flat boost curve... Trent and i have tried heaps of different things. Swapped out BOV's, run i don't know how many actuators, i've got arguably the best aftermarket EBC, Blitz Spec-R, rev210 mod, etc etc. Currently have such a beefy actuator in there at the moment that it runs 18psi with the Blitz turned off. .63's will drop about 2-3psi at redline. That's just the way it is. And you'll find similar sized turbo's from HKS etc will have very similar boost curves. You've probably got a few psi to pick up, but i still think at the end of the day, you'll get up to around 14psi at redline and that will be normal. Do the splitfires, see how it goes, and then sus things out a bit further. Also, i really don't think running 14psi at redline, after peaking at 17psi is really such a bad thing if your engine isn't built How's doing the work/tuning?

thanks for the comments guys and Trent, thanks mate. Considering how many 34's you've seen and worked on, i very much appreciate the comment And also many many thanks for all the work you've put into this car. Guys, this car has only ever been tuned by Trent. one of the best in Australia and the car has never missed a beat. Obviously, Trent has done the mapping for both E85 and BP98. finished claying the car the other day, will be polishing this week. Pics to follow asap

mine is 18psi without boost controller

I haven't tried this new wastage valve thingy, but with my OP6 rear, the .63's won't hold flat boost. I've got a mammoth actuator on the car at the moment (boost controller off it runs 18psi ) but will always drop that 3-4psi etc. That's the housing, not the actuator. And i'm pretty sure you'll find that with any turbo of similar size, you're not going to hold that sort of psi to redline. GCG highflow, HKS GTRS, HKS 2835 ProS... you'll find very similar boost curves. We overlaid a HKS 2835ProS boost curve with my OP6 rear housing curve, and they were very similar... the HKS just held out every so slightly longer, but it was very similar (and also a $4k kit i believe) So it's not an issue with they hypergear highflows... it's just a trade off for having a housing that is more street friendly. To be honest, i'm glad it doesn't run 17 or whatever at redline, even running E85, i'm not fussed it tapers off a bit. Sure it doesn't look pretty on a graph... but i'm sure your engine is preferring it

that's the rev210 mod... search it... massive thread i did the same... shoved a 3" stainless steel pipe in there... works a treat. no issues whatsoever.

nope, if it's a stock GTT, that's about bang on. 152rwkw - 145-150rwkw is pretty much the stock power number. So it's very much within the norm.

all gone, sorry mate.

apparently there are alternate versions of events... don't believe it's a daddy vehicle from what i know. How much would one of those go for these days anyway? it's an older model...

Matt, i found something similar with Gary. Overall he was pleasant, but because i wasn't rocking some euro badge, the interest didn't seem to be quite there. I was actually referring to Blackman's in Moorabbin. I had a good chat with the guy there once, and he was a lot more into it. All academic now, as i canned my ideas happy with the carbon overlay finish?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zML5ZeYmpZo there ya go

would probably have to see a pic... but keen to see if there is a powder coat option, because i know you can achieve that textured sorta finish with powder coating and it will be tough as nails as well. just afte OEM/factory at this stage.... if possible...

my normal powder coater guy can't do interior parts, just rims, which is a bugger. does anyone know of a place i could get interior parts powder coated? i have an idea, but not sure if it'll work out i am aware of the big thread about painting in the interior parts, but looking to see if i could replicate the stock OEM feel/look. cheers, daniel

don't quite know what your S15 is but as i said previously, no swaps. Straight sale only. Thanks

i'll give the $80k back... i promise! just gotta buy a few things first i worked on sunday, battling out the fraudsters in malaysia and indo

nice buy mind if ask how much? pm if you like black R34 GTR rims are the way to go

not a nice way to go, that's for sure. one of the 35 GTR guys had found a good ramp option. Some sort of caravaning kit. EDIT: just checked out the honda link... hahah, i actually made some wooden ramps from some spare wood lying around the house after some house modifications works well but obviously an issue if you're trying to take wheels off. But definitely handy things to have.

aaaawww members helping other members out... everyone sign up! look at the help you can get!

not sure where you are, but Dan @ Midas Brighton works on quite a few imports, he could probably sort out your exhaust, or at least give you an honest opinion on what can/can't be done to it.

the interior parts are so damn hard to clean! i resorted to using masking tape in the end! friggen masking tape! hahaha. I'd roll a bit around one of my finger tips and the gently press and remove on the interior bits to remove all the little bits of fluff etc. yes, i am completely sane.... dude, it's only been up like 1 week hahaha, and only sau and ns.com, i haven't even gone to carsales yet! and for those watching this car... let's just say i wouldn't hang around too long on this without going into details I haven't even got to the paint correction yet The shiny shots tend to get people going the most... interior is boring

don't go hiding mate! there are VERY few genuine kits getting around of ANY brand. Count yourself lucky if you bought it like that or good on ya for going genuine still cleaning up the engine bay, but have pretty much finished tackling the interior. It's kinda fun, do a full-on detail... gone a little crazy. Cotton wool, paint brushes bought from Riot to fiddle bits... custom made vacuum cleaner attachments she's pretty much spotless inside now... but i'm tempted to start getting the cotton wool onto the seat rail bolts, etc... the small details that make the difference here's some interior shots. I basically dismantled the whole interior (didn't take the seats out) and give it a real thorough clean. (cotton wool, Final Inspection GPC, MF cloths, etc) - the finish/paint on the interior parts for 34's is damn shite from the factory, so i did the best that i could. She's looking very shmick inside and the black floor mats are sooo much better than the standard nissan ones. I'll get some shots of the seats as well. Contemplating whether to get Damian @ Final Inspection to steam clean them... last time he did as part of an interior detail it really didn't look much different, which wasn't his fault at all... it's just the grey colouring of the seats doesn't exactly show this dramatic change, even if they are absolutely spotless. They basically look the same. Might still do it anyway, even if it looks the same, at least i'll know they're perfectly clean. You can see the boost controller install as well in some of the last pics. And steering wheel, handbrake, gearknob are all original items. Might try some FI GPC on the red stitching of the steering wheel, see if it brightens things up a bit. Interior has been cleaned more than this as well, all the kick panels, doors, etc. But basically just a wipe down with a damp MF cloth, with a bit of FI GPC, then wiped again with a clean damp MF cloth.

didn't get an email for this thread

a few threads i know i'm in, but not getting any email updates when there have been additional posts? checked settings, all are good. And was getting updates as of yesterday. I noticed a similar issue when SAU came back after some work the other week cheers, daniel

does a proper Carbon drive shaft make much of a difference? how much would a PST one go for?

670cc should be fine for that turbo 670cc = 670hp = 500kw (at the fly) - you're running 98 i assume, so those very rough calculations would be about right.