ferni

Im not sure if you can tell by looking at VIN numbers without using the FAST software... Vspecs have Active LSD and should have an A-LSD light on the dash, the rear diff should have fins on it

Keep in mind boost doesn't mean much, its the amount of air you flow... 3psi boost may not be much on a smaller stock turbo, but on a bigger turbo, 3psi could be twice as much air, hence twice the power increase. The boost controllers are illegal because it changes your emissions

Process of elimination? Hook up the wire coming from the speaker that doesn't work, to the output on the amp taht you know does work (ie hook up Rear Left speaker to Rear right output), if sound comes out, you know the wiring to the speaker is fine and you rule that out... Then put the rear right RCA input into the rear left RCA, if the audio then works out the rear left channel, then you can assume either the RCA cable is stuffed or the output for the rear left is stuffed on the headunit, or its come unplugged at the headunit, or a setting in the headunit is wrong... i'm sure you get the picture

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I drive my R33 GTR everyday etc... it hits full boost WELL before the 5grand you're talking about, its actually on full boost very close to the 3400rpm you are talking about from the WRX, well before 4000rpm anyway, that and it revs out further than the WRX.. It runs low 12's, maybe a high 11 if someone who could drive took it down the strip, so the only difference between my GTR and the WRX you want is mine will be worth more in a few years haha naa you do get the warrenty and the new car etc... and i do agree with where you are coming from, WRX would be a better daily driver, but its alot closer to the top end of its performance than my GTR is, yet they will both perform the same functions, and i think my GTR would be quicker on the strip, track and road than the WRX you're talking about.

Aren't they built for different things? the WRX for rally and the GTR for circuit? From my experience the STI's are good on very tight corners/hairpins etc, no long straights, but as soon as there are some more average corners and long sweepers, with some straights thats where the GTR comes into its own Theres a guy with a 04 black WRX, can't remember if its STI tho? has it stripped out and a roll cage in it etc.. few little mods i think... does sprints every weekend so has some idea of how to steer, me, scottsmen, snowman were at phillip island track with him one weekend, Scottsmen (R33 GTR, stock suspension setup, with semi slicks (wrx had semis as well), and basic mods, exaust etc..) and Snowman(R34 GTR) basic mods, we running times a 2-4 seconds quicker than him... the GTR's weren't stripped out at all, they were full daily drivable... the WRX was trailered there... thats just an example i know of... Another one is RacePace's R33 GTR... that thing drives to sandown on the road, semi slicks etc... runs 1.15's around sandown (quick enough to be back of the pack with the v8 supercars) not stripped out at all and then drives back.... I'd like to see a WRX do that ... What do you actually want the car for? 1/4 mile? circuit? street?

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this is where Denton replies with 'i built it, you bought it'

No, i told you save a bit more for PowerFC

What actually happened to the GTR? paint damange? dents?

These are now SOLD Edit: One has been sold with airbag, I now only have the leather re-upholstered one with no airbag/centre peice. Asking $300ono Both are of R33 GTR's and will fit all R33 GTR's, not sure about Gtst - don't see why not though (obviously the airbag will only work if you have a car that already has/had an airbag and all the stuff that goes with it). Only 1 airbag/centre part between the 2 wheels, will sell with or without the airbag. One wheel is in average condition - worn in the usual spots, perfect if you wanted to get it re-upholstered in any material/colour you like while not having to loose the use of your car while its getting done. $50 without airbag, $300 with airbag. One wheel has been reupholstered in top quality leather, worth over $300 for the reupholstering alone, perfect condition. Without airbag $300, with airbag $550. Photos attached. Can install for you if you pick up, I'm located near Melbourne. PM or reply in this thread for more details.

Still worth throwing it on the dyno and getting the A/F ratios checked.. and let the experts look at it... for the sake of $100 or so. I wouldn't bother with a SAFC2, if you're going to spend the money just get a PowerFC - for about $1000 bucks you can get one with a hand controller.

Assuming you have an airbag steering wheel.... Does it go clink, sounding like metal on metal? does it happen when you go over say traintracks or a very rough surface? If so, its probably the steering wheel vibration absorber (at least thats what i think it is... You'll need to pull the airbag cover off your steering wheel (don'nt need to disconnected so don't stress about it going off)... there should be 2 black plastic tabs on the L and R side of the steering wheel, flick them off with a flat head or knife or something.. under there are 2 tamper proof T50 torx screws... you'll need a T50 security torx key to get them off - can get a set at dick smith for $17.... undo them, then the airbag (center part) should fall/pull forward, leave the plug, plugged in down the bottom. Look towards the top of the section that the cover was covering, there should be a bracket, held in by 2 screws, with a rubber weight inbetween, its probably snapped the rubber bits and only 1 side is holding it, either: a) take it out completly B) superglue the rubber bits back where they are meant to be and put it back in c) snap the rubber weight off completly hope that helps.

Aren't you some kind of lawyer Abo Bob? sorry if your not just got the impression you know a bit about law from previous posts of yours... I guess its up to you ... settle less headaches and be a bit out of pocket for a new set of rims ( you are getting a free respray out of it as well etc.. ) but i guess you do have the right to say that's not acceptable and that the car should be returned to the same condition it was in, same rims or money to replace the rims of the same value.

Doesn't look too bad... the 400R rear bar helps pull it off.

I don't get that, what about taxi's that have thier computers mounted above the dash, or the cops them selfs have computers mounted up there?

WHat was your oil and water temps like? they are the main things i look at.... also as others said, get rid of the magnatec, i don't think its fully synthentic? I use Castrol forumula R fully synth 10-60w

It depends on other things... what other mods do you have?

Do a search in the for sale forum, these turbos come up quite often... think i've seen them go for around 400-700 a pair....

Heath: why not take it back to the same guy who roadworthied it when you bought it from Denton? can't see him picking on anything on it since he just passed it?

LMAO this has turned into a photoshop thread... Anyways thats stuffed, hope something good comes from it.

1. I just use BKR6E or BKR7E coppers and change them every 10,000ks 2. I use castrol formula R full synth 10-60w 3. I run about 1bar stock internals/turbos for over 40,000ks (before i had the car to current) 4. Remove the front drive shaft

adjustable cam gears with a proper tune should help boost come on earlier.

Shaun: that sucks, sorry to hear that Jerry: ok - its my work email so dont usually check it on the weekend

Or the exaust wheels heat up too much and one of the blades let go? Whats the most common cause of the standard gtr ceramic turbos blowing? I'd be interested to know what boost Shaun was running, and how long for.