ferni

hmm nope not 100% sure, but i remember testing it on my old PPI amp in my old car and swear that the remote wire coming from the headunit was 5v... could be wrong

I would think anywhere from 70k-100k to import and from 80-120k local? Not sure R34 GTR prices vary a lot... Keep in mind even at the lower end say 70k to import one from japan, you're spending 70k on something you've never seen or driven before (unless you go over and check it out yourself)

the type of plugs shouldn't make much difference, its the gapping that will - Gap them at .8mm and try that.

Isn't it normally the exaust wheels that let go first, and should end up in your cat?

What kind of tuning has it had done? DOes it have Cams/Cam gears? I run the same power from my RB26 1bar stock turbos, stock ecu, stock injectors.

its only 5volts running through the remote control wire

ravensfan: Ignore my same size tyre part in my previous post, i assumed they were going on a GTR. You can put different sized tyres on if you want, its up to you... If you go for the same size tyres you could rotate the wheels/tyres front to rear.. on the other hand if you got say 265's on the back it may help with traction off the line and 245s on the front for a bit better handling.... (less sidewall flex)

somoeonestolecc: Thats your headunit, I had a cheap crap pioneer headunit in the car when i got it, it left the antenna up all the time when playing cds etc... i upgraded to a better headunit and now the antenna stays down when not on radio etc

The size of the R34 GTR rims is 18x9... standard sized tyres on them are 245/40/18... You could put 245/40/18, 255/35/18, 265/35/18, its up to you... make sure they are the same tyre/size all the way around to avoid issues with your ATTESA. As for the best tyre, it depends on what you want to use them for? and how many kms you want out of them.... SK: Is there such a thing as too much negative camber? If you get the camber wound out you loose handling performance... Is there anything wrong with running say -2 camber then at half way through the tyre life getting hte tyres swapped from L to R? (before excessive inside wear kicks in) Ronin: so the Pilot Sport 2 has a left and a right tyre? Interesting never seen that, is it used by any other tyres?

At a guess i'd say he's not running stock turbos... The Rb26 Internals usually can cope with the 320rwkw you want... as Leewah said the stock turbos/fuel system is what struggles If you've upgraded injectors/turbos and usually ECU, a good tuner should be able to get you well over 300rwkw - Go see Racepace.

better to be safe than sorry, no doubt about it, look after your shit, no one else will.

there you go I'd think twice about stoping for an unmarked car, if it wasn't the obvious late model holden/ford..

Looks good condition hard to tell - is there any wear or marks on it?

I think you'd have a pretty good defence in court if you didn't pull over for a black SS ute with personalised plates that tried to pull you over. Any yobo in his SS Ute could get a flashing blue/red light stick it in his window and pretend to be a cop. "I saw a late model SS Ute driving erratically, then suddenly started to try and pull me over, i feared for my safety, thats why i didn't pull over"

No way...I just bought a house - how am i suppose to afford this now Best street GTR ever.

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/priceli..._gtrstyling.htm There is a special price for SAU members - meshmesh hit up a deal with them, try and find the post from him about them....

bump

lwells: THeres not much info on here, he disapeared off the from right after it happend, and never really gave much info - maybe he was embarresed or something? Not sure. I thought you didn't want more power, that your car was quick enough? I remember a thread somewhere with you saying that We all do tho pablo: No haven't had my engine rebuilt yet - it hasn't blown up yet touch wood... but _when_ it does, it will be a racepace built engine, I'm in no rush for it, i'm happy with the power i have at the moment.

What else do you need to know? As it was said, you just take off the standard BOV, block off the hole it leaves, and install an aftermarket pod filter on, and you'll get the same noise... Most people seem to think its bad for your turbo (its what causes the flutter noise) and i agree with them.

If you were in Melbourne i'd recommend Racepace to build it, but not sure about sydney.. Merli got his whole engine rebuilt somewhere in sydney, spent big bucks on it, top of the line forged everything, no idea who rebuilt it, but first track day, BANG, not sure what the details are, but i could only guess the engine wasn't built properly Mechanics don't build engines, Engine builders usually build engines Find someone whos had thier RB26 rebuilt and races it, and find out who did it in Sydney and what they think of them, speak to them all then pick someone to do it for you and ask them all your questions, I think thats the best bet.

I probably know less than you, but have the same goal as you, daily driver i can race on weekends... I'd look into handling mods more than power mods from my expereince on the track they make a big difference.. I'd go HKS turbos, not the N1's, GTSS or 2530's are good stuff... PowerFC for sure, oil cooler for sure, sump baffle for sure.. rest of the stuff i don't know much about Biggest thing is make sure your engine builded knows RB26's, the oil system is suppose to be the weak part and needs to be reworked when rebuilding for more reliablity.

Mine drives fine on stock turbos running around 260rwkw biggest bitch is the clutch, and i don't think it be much difference to some small low mounts pushing out 300-350rwkw... test drive the cars, see if you think you could drive it in traffic everyday... I agree with you some good cars out there with good mods for a good price

I probably know less than you, but have the same goal as you, daily driver i can race on weekends... I'd look into handling mods more than power mods from my expereince on the track they make a big difference.. I'd go HKS turbos, not the N1's, GTSS or 2530's are good stuff... PowerFC for sure, oil cooler for sure, sump baffle for sure.. rest of the stuff i don't know much about Biggest thing is make sure your engine builded knows RB26's, the oil system is suppose to be the weak part and needs to be reworked when rebuilding for more reliablity.

Get it built by a good engine builder and make sure they tweak the oil system in it. I've been told thats the weakest bit in the RB26 and it needs to be reworked when rebuilding. How much power are you after? For track days i'd think more about handling mods than power mods... I'd also look at HKS turbos instead of the N1's unless there is a reason you're going for the N1's.. I have the same goal as you, daily driver i can race on the weekends... its a fine line... but when my engine/turbos go i'd prefer to go for HKS 2530's or GTSS's suppose to be a lot better than the N1's... I don't know much about the other stuff... PowerFC i agree with, Oil cooler definatly - get a biggest you can fit 16 row or something... I probably know less than you, but doesn't hurt for an extra opinion

I'm after the black box on the heaterbox that makes the ticking noise when its stuffed on the R33 skylines - should be the same between GTR/GTS... Photo attached, black box circled in blue is what i'm after... Held down by 2 screw/bolts, and has a plug on it... PM or reply in this thread if you have one, or even know what its called... Thanks...