abr33

I havent cleaned mine as they were already clean, not knowing any better i hit them with compressed air and blew the old oil out after a soak in petrol. I hope I havent damaged them? a few were pumped up by air, will this bleed out or is this bad? engine not started yet. Any info would be good thanks

How is your crankcase ventilation setup? the stock pcv yeah? sounds like your crankcase is pumping up and pushing oil out of turbo seals and/or the rings. Check lines for blockages

I used an n1 in mine for 8000kms never bashed limiter but revved it to 7k making near 300kw without a collar and looks like brand new. I dont want to pull the motor out for a long time now so i lashed out on a tomei. Make sure the pressure it set too.

It will idle high and suck shit in at idle if your pcv is still operational

get the plug p/n AGSP22YE09 from ford. genuine plug made by denso. my tuner insisted i use them as they are the best they've used and are platinum i think? and only 15 bucks each

Thats true, but water gets pretty hot.. up to 100 under some conditions. Oil begins degrading over 95.. I stated what its intended for, not saying it would'nt sometimes act as a cooler

Unbeknown to many people, but that factory oil 'cooler' is actually a heater. These cars are designed for Japan, where it gets VERY cold and that little devil is just to warm the oil to operating temps... Its best to disconnect it if your oils getting hot. And a thermostatic cooler if you have anything over stock output :-)

na, if its factory fit its in the right spot id assume, just making sure its not a dodgy install

Also, where is your oil temp taken from?

The temp guages in question are in 34's or 33's? my 33 gtst stays halfway all the time except in heavy traffic or stopped on a 45*+ day. I didnt even have a thermo fan. I do now. 2 of them. But when it was getting hot it was a needle width above halfway. And normally was half a needle width under half. Never boiled. Now i have 2 thermo's, a 52mm twin core radiator and new thermostatic HEL oil cooler, id be fitting a good cooler and bigger radiator if your cooking it on the track IMO

Na i meant i wont know how it performs till dyno run next month :-)

no worries, ill hold off putting it in till i hear from you

Is fitting between fmic and radiator a bad idea? obviously can get warmer air there which isnt as good

Ok how do i go about this? wanna pm me some details please?

Got my new pump today... looks little. but where impeller is is huge... wont know how it goes till next dyno run next month

Also check your ecu temp sender, on front of inlet manifold into water jacket, if its busted/missing/covered in sealant, could be still telling ecu to run on cold start (tune) but maybe not...

I just looked at the hel kit with thermostatic sanga plate. buy from hel uk site 460 AUD including postage. whole kit for r33 gts/r. I bought one, i currently have a chinese cooler that never let me down... but i want thermostat now because i scrapped the factory oil heater Note postage is 5 days tops... Hel australia want 700+++......... Cant go wrong imho...

Ah ok point taken

Crawl under??? i always get my filter from the top? lol. I think he told me something about the drainback valve not working to flash when mounted vertical also.

I was strongly advised by a very reputable rb builder to not relocate filter, sure cooler, but dont touch relocation kits. More shit to go wrong, more leaks to have, and the factory position is fine anyway, use cardboard so you dont make a mess. problem solved. Each to their own but

how cold does it get where you are? Do you run the factory oil heater? (on filter unit) Over cooling oil isnt too fatal depending on type of oil and how its being driven.

Really bad detonation?

Yeah i know its not ideal for a structure like it, but iv sent alot of even lighter things down and got done.. and it would add a couple of kgs... it was just a thought, i can get the blokes to do it a special way if need be and slow cool

i found doing the gaps square hard by hand, got em pretty good except 1 had the right gap at the bore, and prob 4 or 5 thou (at a guess) on the inside, however that will be covered by piston right? im not going as crazy with power as you but

Im not too worried about deformation, its a pretty solid structure, more so in denaturing the metal and softening it. ill test it soon for hardness. Powdercoating wont get inside properly and will be expensive. all else failing ill respray it myself, just like the idea of gal.. might be onto a good thing Or it might be a total failure... ill try source a second cradle so if i screw it, it wont matter