proengines

Sold.

Just have a flange welded to the stainless manifold to suit the smaller turbo.

Blitz, the REV rods already use an ARP 2000 3/8 bolt which is all you'll ever need. You could fit the ARP custom age or SPS CARR bolts to them but they'll set you back half as much again as the rods do. The VG30 ARP bolts work fine in the 26, they have clearance problems with the cradle in an RB30 though and need a touch machined off the end of them.

What's the bore size like? every extra .001" bore diameter will give an extra ~.003" ring gap (using Pi*D). Most finished ring sets are made to give at least the minimum gap at the exact bore diameter they're made to suit for easy fitting by anyone. I know the Wiseco rings we use still require gapping even with .001" extra bore dia. They might be worth a try but off the top of my head the Arias pistons use a 1.5/1.5/3.0 ring set and the Wisecos use a 1.2mm top ring and maybe a 2.8mm oil ring. You could always go for a set of compression rings .010" bigger oversize, say .040" if the bore is .030" and file them to suit, they should have almost no gap to start with so you can set what you want. ACL might do file backs in the standard ring widths, otherwise try Colin at Special Piston Service in Melbourne, he might have something there.

Will take it. Can you drop it anywhere is Brisbane or organise a courier?

Yep, it locked in the thread half way out when I was taking the caps off to fit the bearings.

We used a set of REV rods in the last 26 we did. They aren't a bad looking rod, pretty similar to an argo in design. I heard they are made in China, but then so are Eagles and they are a fantastic rod for the price. We had a problem with a binding conrod bolt in one of the REV rods but UAS replaced it straight away. It's a pretty common problem if the bolts arent lubed properly when the rods are assembled at the factory. They use ARP bolts and come finished on bottom size on the big and little end tunnels, we had to finish them to size which is a good thing if you have the machine to do it as you can get the clearances spot on. A lot of conrod manufacturers do the same thing as it saves having to close the rod up to get it back to the size you want. For the dollars ($1500ish)they are a nice rod. One rod I'm really impressed with is the ones PAR make in Sydney. We've got an EJ25 here at the moment that runs 400ish RWKW and the rods look like brand new, the tunnels are still round and even the small end bush isn't hammered out. I think We'll use them from now on as they're Australian made and as good as anything I've seen. A bit more pricey than the REV rods though.

It would physically fit, the main journals are the same size, the conrod journals on an RB20 are the same as a CA18 so you'd have to have rods and pistons made to suit the journal and the length. To do something cheaply, why not try an RB25 or 26 crank in the RB20, a set of RB26 rods and have some pistons made or modify some 4AG-ZE pistons? The RB20 head will bolt straight on and apparently they still rev really well. You would want some decent quality valves and springs and solid lifters if you were planning on 9000rpm though, I doubt the hydraulics would take it for too long or if the head would flow enough air with the std valves to make worthwhile power at those sort of revs. It also still looks like an RB20 so if it runs good times it will look pretty impressive.

Is that price for bolts or studs and nuts? If it's studs it's worth every cent of it, the extra clamping force is cheap insurance.

Eagle don't make a rod for the RB26 unfortunately, only SR20 and VG30. The Wiseco pistons are listed at 8.0-8.4 in the catalogue, the last set we used came out at 8.6 by the time everything was machined and using a 1mm head gasket.

Dry sump is a great option if you can do the work yourself. for my RB30 I picked up the pump used but in great condition for $152.50 from Ebay and the tank arrived today for less than $100, it is missing the bottom part which I didnt realise but it's not much to fabricate. I might just buy another, they go for around US$200 used from Nascar teams including a tank heater and usually some lines. Lines etc.. come to around $300 because the tank is being mounted in the tray of the ute. It's a bit of work to mount the pump and set up the drive belt etc so if you are paying by the hour it might add up to a bit to do. I'd say it will take a good Saturdays work and it will be all mounted up. I fitted a collar to a RB30 crank a couple of weeks ago and it's not a small job, you need to machine the fromt of the crank down, then shrink fit the collar and drill and tap for the screws supplied. It's about 2 hours labour and theres no way you could do it in the car. It comes to $500 or so to supply and fit the collar, then add the price of a Jun or HKS etc pump and you wont have much change out of$4000 including the labour to fit it. On a 33 you dont need to fit the drive collar so you can do it in the car but it still adds up. The dry sump setup will always make more power on the same engine because it reduces windage. The parasitic losses due to windage are pretty big. It also stops the oil pump sucking in aerated oil which doesnt lubricate anything all that well. The scavenge side of the dry sump pump can pick up oil straight from the back of the head so that oil doesn't have to run back past the crank to get to the sump. Most newer dry sump pumps also have a vaccum pump as the last stage which is great for reducing crankcase pressure. If it was my engine and I was paying for someone to do it and was on a budget, I would go for the 26 pump, stiffen up the relief spring and clean up the sharp edges in the oil feeds. I'd also knock some restrictors into the oil feeds to the head, we make them with a .75mm feed hole and tap the original down and our one in on top of it. The amount of oil that doesn't feed to the head after that would most likely make up most of the difference that a larger pump would make without the restrictors. You are better off making good use of the flow of the pump that's already there by sending the oil to the right places that by just pumping more oil to make up for a simple design flaw. Oil pumps use a fair bit of power to drive and the less power it takes to drive the pump, the more power at the flywheel. I'd also look at sump baffling, you can have the best oil pump money can buy but if the pickup isn't sitting in the oil it's not going to do any good.

In the photo that's hopefully below, the area with the red squigles on it is the quench/squish are. Basically it is the area where the flat surface of the head face sits over the flat areas on the piston. "quench" is because these areas run cooler than the rest of the chamber as very little combustion actually happens in these areas. "squish" is because these areas squish the air/fuel mixture in towards the spark plug. In order with your questions, 1. There is no direct relation between quench area and compression, although moving the piston closer to the head will increase compression. The closer the piston runs to the head, the more compression you can run without detonation or at the same compression you can run more timing. 2. Head gasket thickness does affect quench, the closer the piston sits to the head without hitting it, the more complete combustion you will have as a shock wave is formed between the flat areas, pushing the air/fuel mixture in towards the spark plug. A thicker head gasket will move the faces further apart and result in less efficient combustion. 3. If you modify the combustion chamber on the flat areas it will affect it, Jun machines most of the quench pads away and their engines make great power, I'm not sure of the exact reason why they do it though. It still leaves a ring around the outside of the chamber that sits over the piston though. 4. Machining the top of the block will move the pistons closer to the head, machining the head will not make any difference to piston to head clearance, it will increse compression and decrease piston to valve clearance though. 5. I'd say it's equally important in both turbo and n/a engines. There are a lot of different thoughts on quench area. Endyne in the US do a lot of hondas and say that the actual compression doesnt matter in a turbo engine as long as the piston top has the right profile. They also shape their pistons to push the air/fuel mixture towards the spark plug and the exhaust side of the chamber. It's an interesting idea and they have the numbers on the board to show it works. If you're interested, have a look at www.theoldone.com theres quite a few days reading there.

Chris, The thinnest we have found is a cometic gasket that comes out at very close to .040" compressed. It was 87.5mm bore size in the gasket. The last 26 we did we raised the compression slightly by milling the block until the piston protruded .010" out the top of the block. That gives .030" quench clearance between the quench pads on the piston and the head. I wouldn't go much less than this though, I'd say .025" clearance at a minimum depending on the RPM you're planning on using and the quality of rod/pin/piston. I think .030" is safe for 8500ish-9000RPM. I saw in another post you mentioned you've seen the quench pads removed from the head. I've wondered about this too, we normally radius the edge of the pad and that's about it. I'd like to know what the benefit of removing the pad is, it would help by unshrouding the valves and would probably improve flame travel slightly but I'd say you would have to use a different profile on the piston dome to benefit from it. I'd say they must still leave a ring around the chamber to give quench. I'd love to see someone with a lot more money than me make an aftermarket head with a flatter valve angle and smaller combustion chamber, something like an EJ20 or SR20 and use an almost flat top piston. I'd say the gains would be huge.

It is necessary. metal head gaskets require a very low Ra (roughness average) finish to seal properly as there is very little give in the gasket to conform to the head. The head also needs to be dead flat. Most machine shops use PCD cutters in their surface mills now to get the finish fine enough to seal properly with these gaskets. Makes sure the block is spotless as well. It doesnt hurt to use an oil stone to finish the block to remove any small high spots, you find the block does pull up a little around the head bolt holes. It should cost less that $100 to have it machined as long as you remove the manifolds and cams/buckets/shims. Make sure you keep the buckets and shims in order so you can put them back on the same valve.

I'm not 100% sure of the limits of the block. The OS Giken kit uses an N1 block and they have those running into the thousand and a bit hp. The regular 26 block is a bit more solid than a 30 block so it should last longer at the same power levels. The sleeves should add some extra strength and they are better quality material than the original block and are centrifugally cast. The redline depends on a lot of things, a counterweighted crank will be able to rev reliably to higher revs than a non counterweighted one but saying that, the 26 crank isn't fully counterweighted. If money is no object you would go for a counterweighted crank. As for the reliability of the RB30 crank it is the same material as an RB26, the same hardness, similar design apart from the extra stroke and a slightly larger conrod journal. I'd be interested to run a fluid style damper and see what difference this makes to the harmonics. What made me think of doing this is we recently machined up an RB30 for a conversion into a GTR, if you are paying by the hour for all the mods required it would come to a similar cost. I know that doesnt sound right but if you add up the mods to fit an adapter plate, mods to the sump and oil pickup system, air cond brackets, welding and redriling the rear bellhousing bolts on the sump, oil lines for an external feed to the pump, oil feed and returns for the turbos and all the other bits and pieces, plus the adapter plate to begin with it soon adds up. I'm doing an engine for myself for an HR ute I have. It's a RB30 SOHC but what I might do is use an RB26 block I have here with these mods and see how it holds up. It will be a fairly high HP engine running 30ish psi with a HS50 or similar holset turbo and it will cop a hard time so any problems will show up fairly quickly. It will be a while before it's up and running. I'm just gathering bits and pieces at the moment. It's amazing what's around, in the last 2 days I picked up a dry sump pump for $152.50 and a ex nascar dry sump oil tank for under $100 delivered. It makes the japanese aftermarket pumps look a bit ordinary for the price. I'd like to aim for the 700ish HP mark and then some nitrous on top. It should be fairly quick in a 1200kg car with a high stalled trimatic.

I'm just putting out the feelers to gauge interest in a setup similar to the OS Giken 3 litre conversion. What the coversion will involve is an owner supplied RB26 block resleeved using a high burst pressure thick walled flanged sleeve pressed into the block and able to be finished anywhere between 86 and 88mm bore size. A CNC milled cast iron spacer plate will take the block height to the height of the sleeve and have an open deck to allow coolant to flow around the top of the sleeves. The spacer plate will have a viton o-ring style seal around the water and oil holes between the block and the plate. Any type of head gasket that can be used on an RB26 can still be used. This will increase the block height to take an RB30 crankshaft and RB30 length conrod and a Wiseco piston. The idea of using the RB30 crank is to save the cost of an aftermarket crankshaft, you could use an aftermarket crankshaft but this would increase the cost significantly. Conrods would be billet I or H-beam 6" using RB30 conrod bearings. We haven't decided on a conrod yet. We're also considering a 6.070" VG30 conrod using piston thrust location. The crankshaft, conrods and pistons would all be balanced along with the flywheel and balancer. Head studs are ARP 12mm with 12pt nuts. Main studs are ARP as well. The crankshaft will be fitted with screw in o/g plugs and an oil pump drive collar to suit the later pumps. a timing belt is also included. The plan is to keep as many parts as possible "off the shelf" to make it more affordable. The price for an assembled short engine would come in at less than half the OS Giken kit, somewhere between 10 and 11 grand. It still sounds a bit pricy but considering that there is no need to fit an adapter plate, modify the sump or oil system, all the mounts and accessories bolt straight in place on the block plus you have a slightly stronger block with more ribbing to start with, plus you still retain the piston oil squirters. At the moment this is only in the early stages. I still need to dummy fit the parts in the block to check rod to bore and rod to cradle clearances etc.. I just want to see if there is much interest if we did do this?

opps, accidental double post, can someone delete this one?

It all depends on what else you have done. Be careful as a little change on the cam timing can make quite a big change to the AFR. Your best bet is to get the car on a dyno and work in small steps, monitoring the air/fuel ratios.

There is a brand of pistons called Hypatec, they are hypereutectic pistons made by Right Way Piston Co. in Taiwan. theyre a nice piston but from what I know they dont make anything forged for the RB. There is a Hypatec liquid forged piston that is excellent but not available from what I know for an RB engine at all. They are made by pouring the liquid alloy into the die and forging it once it starts to solidify. This is the same way that Toyotas forged pistons are made and when you see some 1000hp-ish 2jz's they are awfully strong. I've seen coated pistons for the RB30ET but not for the n/a engine. It's actually an anodising they use. Be careful if it has a slightly dished piston rather than a dome as you will have way to low compression. It is a good buy, just depends if it fits your needs.

As some other guys have said, have a look at the ignition timing, I've see even N/A engines with the manifold running red hot when the timing has been retarded too far.

It might be worth having a good look at your harmonic balancer and see if the outer ring has slipped/moved.

We had a GTR on a dyno yesterday and it was showing signs of the ignition breaking down at around 7000rpm, the power curve flattened off at around 295kw and the line looked like a bush saw. We regapped the plugs from 1mm down to .8mm and it made 320kW with the power curve doing the same thing at the top end. It's a pretty good sign that the ignition system is on the way out and this one will be getting a new set of coils and plugs gapped to what they should be. This engine has the compression bumped up slightly and is running around 22psi from 4000ish onwards so it does place a lot more load on the ignition. It will be interesting to see what sort of power this engine makes with enough spark to make another useful 1500 or so RPM as the power curve was heading up at around 70ish degrees and it hit its peak torque at around 5500-6000ish and the line stayed almost horizontal until the ignition died off. Usually if you have to close the plug gap up to stop ignition problems it means that you have an ignition problem further down the line and without fixing that first you will never make the power that the engine has the potential to. Because coils are expensive to replace, a lot of people ignore them and try to band-aid the problem by other methods but you'll never make the power that you should. Compared to the price of other mods, $7-800 for a new set of performance coils is really pretty cheap power.

You might find they are 1/2" unf on the top but taken down to 12mm to screw into the block. I'm 99% sure the SR20 studs also use an imperial thread on the top of them. It saves making a different nut especially for them.

It's not the belt that wears the pulley, it's the dirt and dust that gets squeezed through between the belt and gear. The dirt can embed in the belt and continually wear away at the pulley, similar to sandpaper. It's a good reason to run a belt cover.

The force on the bolts is not really a shear force. The bolts dont transfer the majority of the force, they clamp the 2 halves of the gear together and the friction between the 2 mating surfaces provides the drive. the load of the bolts is mostly tensile. If you're worried about 3 6mm bolts providing enough clamping to drive the cam, never look at an OS-giken twin plate clutch, they use 6 or 8 6mm bolts to hold the pressure plate on and these can transmit 600Nm of torque.