Trust33

Itd come through his streering wheel if it were that. A mates VK did this same thingvibrated under load.And because he never had it fixed,after doing so many burnouts it would spit a universal joint once a month.So he used to carry a spare with him.Rofl. Ive been with him when he has had to replace them on the side of the road.

What beer barron said..

They are good clutches.It all depends on what you want to do with your car,how much left leg work you want to do,and how much power it has to hold. Stock would be much like the one you have there.Full faced but with a heavy duty button. For 180-220rwkw i would recomend either a 8 puck as above "i have not seen these yet".5-puck,or 3 puck ceramic sprung/cushion button.They are easier on the leg for street not so much on/off feeling.And they will see you through track days well. For 250-320rwk.Maybe a super single or twin plate???The twin is a bit harsh for street/city driving so i am told.So would be that kind of power. Then you move into tripple plate etc.Cazy power cars. Personally i use the 5puck ceramic sprung button and it has held out well.Though for the numerous events it has seen plus daily driving at arround 1.5yrs.It is allmost time to replace it. Though others have differing opinions on what power they can hold.This is what i beleive they will comfortably hold.

Good clutch btw.Mine is xtreeme 5 puck ceramic cushion button.And has lasted all year with track,drift,and skid pan days all with daily driving as well.

dude it all depends on where you gat it installed. I was quoted through the nose @ $600 not inc clutch years ago.So i said bugger that i will do it myself.had never done anything like this beafore hand either but thought it would be good to give it a go.Sure the car was off the road for a a day extra but for the money i saved i couldnt complain.

There is some fair dinkum carnage going on there.Must be very quick on those roads.They'd be slippery enuf in the dry from leaves let alone a wet road. Better luck next year..

check that the afm is sending a signal also.

plugged your AFM back up?

1.low gives a slower outcome.High gives a quicker outcome. 2.Hot,cold.Restriction,no restirctions. 3.Brakes heat is a result of friction as allready stated.And various metallic non metallic compunds will give different thermal readings.So how much punishment it can stand up to,is directly related to the thermal properties of what it is made up of.Dont forget cold air has a higher O2 density hot lower.tho hot air can still be used to cool things down it has to be propelled to do so allong with a few other variables.(velocity)Murphys law really einstien. You came to a car forum why! to ask these questions?

but if he wants the fuel pressure he will need somthing else.. Fuel pump. And nearly all adjustable fpr's have>>ADJ fuel pressure regulator

DAMNNNN son!

Gimmie gimmie.i was reading on and it said that msd coils are prolly an option.Cheap and friken good.

I have found a post from here on sau but it diddnt have any pick.Though there was a link.it has pics and is a tutorial. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...n/vs+coil+packs Link: http://www.dsd.co.nz/coils.htm

Shim is sold.

What other coils (stock but other cars) are there out there that allow more spark and relativily easy install into our skylines?

Last time i was out circuit racing.(January hot summers day.) Circuit Name-Wakefield Park Time-1:14.3 Car:R33GTST Modifycations:- Engine/Power mods-Full zorst,13psi,pfc,gtr pump,adj fpr & pannel filter=185rwkw Suspension-Whiteline handeling kit,HKS hyper D shocks (Fronts rooted rears ok) & strut braces front and rear. Brakes-Rotors stock with rb74 pads and castrol response super dot 4.Though i have my reservations about the ones i was given.They sit 5mm down from the outer edge of the rotor.Which doesnt seem normal to me but was assured that it was. Tyres-Near new 17inch Federal 595SS street tyres.

I may not be able to make it to party .Reason:I mite have a new deck for the car to install at that date and the drive home will make the car uber dirty anyways.But i will be out at the fiddler next sat with every1.So see you all then. Things i plan to do to the car. *Install deck. *Touchup. *Degreaser. *Wash. *Quick clay. *Polish and buff. *Go arround with a pencil and shirt/cloth.And take the dirt out of the cracks and hard to reach places.(Poo Duty). *Vac. *Remove seat covers and floor mats. *Spray pretty smells. *Hang fluffy dice.

You may get a danger to manifold alerting you..Seriously tho..I wouldnt have a clue.

Enter the car in autosalon.ftw

Did you file the calliper down?Damn. 17's ftw!!only downside is extra cost.but i think the added performance certainly outweighs that.

I just read from another poster of this same video that these are "the hills" in adelaide.

r32 vs rx7 drifting/hill climb street racing. A road like this would test the celica being up hill but it would fly arround the corner with grip pretty well.

When i seen this it couldnt be excluded from the thread RH9 vs stock celica

Depending on the weight of the celica inc the tyres and handelling mods.I think it is feesable.thats only if there is more winding sweeping turns with little to no straights. But a skyline with 220 rwkw,good tyres and a full whiteline kit,would,in my opinion be faster. We are talking a 12sec skyline vs a 16sec celica. We are talking cars that both have worthy suspension mods. And we are talking who can actually drive the car better and who is willing to take the risk. i will try you tube and see if i can find same or similar races.

pm sent.