Trust33

go hrd son.

:laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

Heyaa Andrew and Jess.Throw me down as in for the night ..

FK.i allmost had a hrt attack.All i seen was tuesday and april and thought omg ive missed it.lucky its next week.

lol.youse gotta come to the autosalonz.This car is pretty speshel.

so there is a kit that fits in the stock housing?

i will give that a go!

Ok Its more like i am looking thru a lined glass window at a hospital

As the title suggests. I am tyring to get a decent compression done from the in car footage i have of the drift day.But i am finding the quality is not coming out all that well.There are alot of grainy lines. Do you have any suggestions on file compression of AVI format.ATM.It is 18gig in raw form.With 1:24:00 of footage.15mins decent driving. Ive tried divX,mpeg1,2 there are a number of different formats i can choose but i beleive the only way to make the pic come out good is if i play with custom settings.which so far i found only works with divx format. etc.The program i have is called Apollo-tech.No1.Video.Converter.v4.1. Do any of you have any experience in settings i should go about doing to compensate for grainy lines?Sound quality is good. I only ask because i need to send some footage of the recent drift day off to andrew n1r33gtr to make a display video for use at autosalon. Regards Craig.

Hey.I will bring the nissan flag.I have white race tape to tape it to whatever with. Tho if we neeed a different colour tape just say.Cause i dont want the tape to stand out like dogs balls.Otherwise we can pin it to somthing... Andrew:I am tyring to get a decent compression done from the in car footage i have of the drift day.But i am finding the quality is not coming out all that well.There are alot of grainy lines. Do you have any suggestions on file compression of AVI format.ATM.It is 18gig in raw form.With 1:24:00 of footage.15mins decent driving

Hi mate how new is the clutch?

what colour are they? EDIT:Ultra bright blue...:><

wing is now sold pending payment.

If you add 1.2mm extra to the lsd you will end up haveing 2.0mm of preload on one side and on the other if you dont change it there will be 0.8mm which all up=2.8mm. If you are going to attempt this mod you should buy some cheap "supercheap" plastic verneer callipers.I found they came in handy.As when i pulled the lsd apart to my suprise the stock shim had allready been replaced with a 1.1mm shim.Having them there and seeing the thickness gave me the idea of replacing the other 0.8mm side with the 1.1mm shim and buddying up the 0.8mm shim with my new 1.4mm shim. BTW:Cubes i see what you mean by the extra preload binding and unbinding feeling.If i am going slow and am in 2nd gear turning a corner and i dont have enough momentum,as i put my foot down the car starts to bunny hop till i straighten out.

Nice.I will have to get out there and try a car with a locker if someone will let me do it. I think i know why the mechanical lsd are better than a shimmed lsd.That is an investment for the future.

I gave it some in 1st coming out of the toll gates,from a rolling start,last night.And the stockers just chirped their way to redline,no one legging. Definently better on the launch than the old worn out diff. I can tell you the behaviour of the car arround corners is allot different.@ low speeds the ass tends to want to stick and it's a bit easier on the steering inputs.But like i said before.the throttle can only be fed on if i get to aggressive on the acc and i tighten the turning circle it's drft time. Id like to try it out at the circuit and see how it behaves.Prolly some time this winter.

it looks allot like a mazda3 to me.

gees haze good luck with this..These cars require more attention than a child..

Here is the link for the diy:r33 gtst diff shimming

It locked great and worked well at the recent sau/initial drift drift day.The ass felt predictable it's still locking good and straight off the line it locks up 2 whels pretty good.. Power needs to be fed into it arround corners.otherwise it's drift time.

i have drft damage. and found that i have a massive flat spot on 1 of the front yres and a small but noticeable one on the other.i will still drive it tho.

i dont know if i will be rideing in my car.i seem to have a either a bubble in my front tyre, a buckled rim, or somthing like a melted peice of rubber.i will check now actually. BTW:are we meeting @ 12-12:30?

Hey all.I have recently wanted to buy an lsd for my 33 but found the prices a little bit to high.so i pondered and pondered and pondered some more,could i do anything to my stock item to give it better lock.thats when i found out about "diff shimming". Its a process which puts extra preload on the stock viscious lsd centre,(dependant on how thick it is shimmed),whereby exherting quicker,sharper and more lock than the old worn out stock unit could ever provide.thus giving more torque to both wheels simultainiously. Step 1: Jack the rear up nice and high so you have plenty of room to move around.You have to undo the half shafts,tailshaft and diff housing nuts and bolts yet. Step 2: Drain the diff oil (make sure you undo the filler plug at the mid way point of the diff).And clean everything up.Ie:The metallic sludge that has formed on the drain plug.Then put it back in place.Tighten it up.You most lilkely wont be un-doing this again.But leave the filler plug loose for the time being.You will use it at the end. Step 3: Put the gearbox in neutral and make sure the handbrake is on.Loosen the 4 bolts holding the tailshaft to the diff flange.You can't reach them all.Remove the handbrake and rotate driveshaft to gain access then repeat.(loosen dont remove yet) Step 4: Its now time for the half shaft flanges.On either side of the diff there will be a stub with a 5-bolt pattern (gts-t, factory turbo a31/c33) or a 6-bolt pattern (3 lots of 2, regular a31/c33 etc etc).Once again,remove the handbrake and the rotate wheel etc. Some WD-40/CRC/WURTH won't go astray either if this is the first time the diff's ever been disturbed.The reason you do this last and the driveshaft first is that if you unbolted the 2 halfshafts first you couldn't utilise the handbrake to hold the driveshaft still while you undo the bolts. Step 5: Now we're ready to remove everything.Before you do this make sure all the nuts & bolts are removed that were loosened off.Lever the driveshaft out of the way with a screwdriver the driveshafts are 5 stud flanges that are just 2 flat faces and are easy to slide out the way. Check (if you live in usa): Publix Weekly Ad, or Big W toy catalogue. Remove the hics bolts and lever the hicas out of the way. Now there are 2 holes & 3 nuts,(the reason there is 3 and not 4 nuts is because one of the nuts holds down an earth strap),remove these first(you may have to lower the diff cradle to gain sufficient access). Now remove the 4 bolts that hold the swaybar to the floor pan,(this will give you room to manuver the diff out).There are still the 2 bolts at the front of the diff housing by the driveshaft flange,remove these and the diff will fall on the swaybar and sit there.Then it just takes a bit of dicking around to get it out.Utilise a trolley jack to help lower it down easily. Step 6: Remove the rear diff cover. Now,before you do anything else tap the half shafts out of the diff housing.They need a good whack in the right spot(id recomend after every whack or 2 that you turn the half shafts arround to make everything exit evenly).Make sure u mark them left and right. Now there are 2 bolts either side,undo these and remove the bearing caps (again remember which way around and what side these go on.it is so easy to forget). You will then see some bearings and spacers and things beside the diff head on either side.Lever the crownwheel & diff centre out with a big bar and make sure u keep all the bearings and shims etc in the correct order and sides. Step 7: Now there are 10 large bolts holding the crown wheel on.They are F$$KING tight!!!!! I'd recommend a decent vice and large powerbar or powerbar & 5pound hammer and possibly some WD-40 (dont root the bolt heads) - alternatively a pneumatic gun will work(Dont try to lever off the bearings they arnt in the way.just dont get sand or grit in or on them). Once the crownwheel's off, you'l see 2 large phillips screws.Remove these and off comes the viscous center.pry these apart with a flathead. You'll see once u pull it off a washer sitting on a flat surface.That's your original preload shim. Now if you want to shim up the other side also (i did) you will have to take the spider gears and the smaller centre out of the hat(Housing) and you will find that there is another shim. Step 8: Do everything in reverse. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Before you screw the diff center back together,after inserting shim and the centre,take the 'longer' of the 2 stub axles and insert it through the center of the diff all the way(in the same side it came out of).This splines the 2 different splined parts of the diff center together so that when you go to insert the diff stubs at the end they'll actually fit (easiest way to explain it).Otherwise you'll be screamin' your head off wondering what you did wrong. Also when reinserting the lsd and crown wheel back into the housing you can use the caps to push it back into the the housing make sure they are the right way arround.Saves u beating unessisarily on the lsd. Pour the diff oil in before you put the diff back into the car. In conclusion: -Now,ive heard allot of different stories about shims and their results and how long they last.some say that they have added 1 standard 0.8mm shims to the existing shim and it wasnt what they were expecting performance wise. -others have added 2 extra 0.8mm shims and say that it has lasted them for a long time others not so long but both say that there was a noticeable increase in lock/performance. -I am the the only person i know of to shim it up to 3.3mm of preload.of course there are crazier.The results were excellent for drifting.both wheels locked consistantly and predictably.I will repost if it ever gives up the ghost.I have never driven or been in a car with either a 1.5way or 2way lsd though i have been passenger in a car with a welded diff. Side notes: *There is a little breather plug at the rear top back position of the diff housing dont forget to unplug it before you lower the diff. *Try to get not dirt,sand,grit etc in the diff or lsd whilst doing this job.keep a cover over things you arnt working with like the diff housing.which now has the cover off etc.. *A bit of WD-40 wont go astray anywhyere it feels to tight to undo *It is so easy to forget.so mark everthing! *Clean all your parts before reinstallation.A little smear of clean diff oil wont go astray when putting the lsd centre back together.i also lubed up the shims before i put them back in.The teeth of the half shafts dont need lube.just dont wipe what they have on there off. These are not as easy to find a car seat on Target Catalogue. Shim Sizes & Prices (@tradeprice): 0.80mm = 3842440f60 price = $10.12 0.85mm = 3842440f62 price = $14.67 0.90mm = 3842440f63 price = $9.97 1.01mm = 3842440f67 price = $9.79 1.05mm = 3842440f68 price = $14.40 1.10mm = 3842440f70 price = $6.37 1.20mm = 3842440f73 price = $6.37 1.30mm = 3842440f76 price = $10.89 1.40mm = 3842440f80 price = $6.37 1.49mm = 3842440f83 price = $6.37 There is nearly allways a wait on these shims so i am told.no-one has them in australia so they have to be ordered from japland.and they have a wait of 1.5-3wks.<<From Nissan Spare Parts. Attempt this mod at your own risk.I am not a mechanic.this is only a guideline.

puts in $100 for raffle tickets =winner

The whole thing that started the leaking ryco filter here on SAU was a few years back some of us bought an oill cooler kit.and what happened was the ryco filters had a thread that was not quite so tight fitting on the sandwich plate thread and they would leak oil.Before that i have used ryco and had no problems. Since then i have only ever used valvoline oil filters for the nissan Z145A.if you ever go to auto-one (they only sell ryco & a generic brand)and ask for their generic oil filter to have a look at.look at the rubber seal and look at how flimsy it is.. when you get the valvoline oil filter from supercheap look at how meaty the rubber seal is. The rubber seal needs to be that meaty so the filter when tight doesnt stop dead on the block after being tightened,thus not creating the seal and oil will leak.So meaty seal and the right thread is the way to go.dont force the thread make sure it goes on smoothly before tightening to much.you dont want a threaded oil filter thread. Remember to smear a thin film of new oil everywhere on the new oil filters rubber seal to create an excellent seal.