chris_82

whats the difference in the 16G 18G and 20G with these kando's. would a 16G spool faster than a 20

Mine sits just a lil bit above the 4 when cruising. I also have the stalling when pulling up but mines caused by a atmos bov.

Oh no sorry dude this isnt for my 33, It was for a different car im going to build. I wasnt sure which turbo would suit but at this stage im gonna go with a Kando. An R32 turbo would be a good option but soon figured i couldnt get the exhaust dump pipe to work. (curves the wrong way to which i need)

Dont mention "ebay" and "turbo" in the same sentence on this site or u will get mauled lol trust me i know.

If he was to run a bigger turbo but ran the same psi setting as before it shat itself does it still need a re-tune ? Could always get the supporting mods later on.

I noticed just jap have sold out of the mild steel bellmouth front pipe but still have plenty stainless steel ones. Theres $20 difference or so. Is there a reason for this besides the price. Varience in the steel ?

Didnt know this thread was still going. What about an R32 factory turbo. 10psi actuator ? Can they be clocked ? I have no water lines on my car so do u think they would crap itself being oil fed only ? I know this is the wrong section. I put some new wheels on my car yesterday. Hiro gold 19x10.5 and 19x9. Whats yous think. Had to roll the rear guards. Now i have my cooler to install

Go with these bad boys, i just bought them for my 33. http://www.bigotyres.com.au/Product-Details/wheeltyre/rpmwheels/58

lol u guys burr up easy. or what about this one, comes with a 16psi actuator so id have to swap it out for a 7psi one. http://www.ebay.com....#ht_6487wt_1396 And yes i will post pics when its all completed

Like i said but few of u actually took note of what i was saying, I know its a crap turbo. But that wasnt what i was asking, i was asking if they can be pulled apart and altered. so thanks sarge thats all i needed to know.

I havent bought anything yet. But it would be handy to know if they can be pulled apart and swapped around. Also redirecting the cold side a different angle for easier cooler pipes install

Hi guys, just a quick question. I plan to build a project car soon and having a bit of trouble finding a turbo to suit, can this turbo be modified so that the centre section (oil feed and return inlet/outlets) are on the opposite side as shown, I need to have the oil feed to be on the same side as the flange. Is it just a matter of unbolting and turning it around then rebolting it up. I know its only a cheap and nasty turbo but it would work for a starting point. I asked the seller and he doesnt seem to have much of an idea. http://www.ebay.com....E:X:RTQ:AU:1123

What about an oil and water cooled turbo but only running it as oil cooled. Only cause it would be on a project car and have no water lines. Would i have to bung up the water holes/threads on the turbo if not used or leave them open? or that would be a stupid question cause it would get dirt/dust etc inside the turbo.

Im chasing a stock pipe from the cross over pipe to the cooler so i can take out this blitz bov. Anyone have one they want to sell.

While we are on this topic, does anyone have a spare stock intake pipe for an R33 GTST. (from the cooler to the crossover pipe) Ive got a Blitz BOV and its causing me idle issues. Want to get rid of it.

Just buy a Blitz return flow like i did. There in stock now at Just jap and a QLD mob on ebay. Plus there legal

Why does a bov interupt the idle ? wouldnt it be a full time issue if this is the case ?

Yeah its a genuine Blitz bov with the aftermarket pipe. Im also still running the stock bov aswel, so 2 operating BOVs.

Hi guys, just wanted to get some info or thoughts on my R33, its a series 2. Ive only had the car a few months and noticed its got an idle issue, this issue isnt full time, it mostly occurs when being driven for half hour or so (completely warmed up). When i stop at traffic lights or pull into my garage it has a slight hesitation if the accelerator is stabbed quickly., (to say i was creeping forward in traffic). Once it recovers the idle drops below 500rpm and struggles then goes back up to about 800-1000rpm and sometimes it even stalls. Ive also noticed there is a clicking noise when the accel pedal is pushed in when this is happening. My other issue is a small backfire between gear change, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. Its a slight pop but sometimes louder than others. It doesnt pop when on near to full boost or if completely off boost. Sort of mid range 0-3 PSI. Also is this backfiring doing any damage? Mods of the car are- 3in cat back exh Blitz SUS filter Blitz BOV Turbosmart T boost (8PSI) Other than that its stock. I run Vortex 95 and 98 in it. Any help would be good.

Yeah will do, According to matt at jattus dot com, they can handle about 15 psi with matching fuel and ecu to suit, im not gonna go that high tho, wont be for a lil while yet until i start the project. Thanks for ur help guys

Ok cheers, can the actuator be adjusted or best to get another one ?

Hi guys, I have an R33 but want to turbo my gf's Hyundai Lantra when she get a new car lol A bit of fun and project we can do together, anyway i want to start off low boost so i dont break something. Most internal waste gate turbos come with an 8 PSI actuator. Can i lower the PSI to around 5-6 with a manual boost controller or can u only go as low as the 8 PSI actuator ?