Deep Dish V35

i rocked them on a 4 cylinder about a decade ago. heaviest wheels ive ever seen. dropped my mallala lap times down a long way

that all depends on which tyre you choose. i had 285s, then bought 265s in a different brand. the 265s were actually wider due to thicker sidewalls. i had no choice but to buy another set of 255s and sell the 265s after also, when it comes to any system that uses sensors on wheels to create stability (attezza, abs, asm, traction control...) the only thing that creates a problem is having tyres that have different circumference. a bigger circumference causes less RPM of the tyre. the sensors on the wheels need to sense matching revolutions from each of the 4 wheels for the system to not be initiated. when one or more wheels does more RPM, the appropriate management system is engaged. the width of tyre does not affect the system whatsoever UNLESS the width/profile ratio and subsequent circumference does not match.

rear will have stretched tyres. might look a bit funny. if you go up 2 or 3 widths and down 5% on profile of rear tyre it will keep the right tyre height without upsetting ABS etc probably a 265-35-18 will be best for rears if it isnt too wide, to keep a square tyre profile all round

white v35 coupe on stanced bronze 19/20s, NSW or WA yellow plates, south road @ darlington. female at the wheel. doubt i can say you didnt see me

only you will know, when its all put together. plus it is impossible to know any answer when none of the parts are on the car yet. you cant guess the amount of lowering a spring will give you, and they take a month or 2 to settle aswell also, dont forget that sub boxes or whatever will make the car even lower

they might not even have known. couldve been prior to them, or even happened in japan. assumptions are never as good as evidence

this might help http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406593-this-is-how-to-measure-your-car-for-new-wheels/page__pid__6483653

outside and inside fogging have different causes. just do an external resto first, youtube it if you have to. when thats done you will see whether the inside is cloudy or not. that ones harder.

seano, wasnt your car slightly lower than your mates? just because you havent upgraded springs doesnt mean a previous owner didnt. you could have Z springs and not know it... clean the springs and check for any spots of paint colour, theyll ID the springs,

ebay ones are rubbish. you pay 2 dollars, it sounds like 2 dollars. if you can afford to throw away 2 dollars and wait a whole month, buy one and torture your ears. want a good one? pay $50, go a reputable brand. Aeropro, belkin... tape adapters.... same deal. $2 is $2 aux input is the best direct way to do it and that will cost about $10 if youre handy with a soldering iron

one inch lower, perfect

^^ 360 degrees? havent seen that since 80's horror films

my welder is only 100amp, not enough penetration for exhaust standards. ive had a fab shop go over the lot after i was happy with the setup p.s. second vid added

action vids no noise when driving normally, nice note under acceleration and yes all within local speed limits http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/sc850/V35/twin%20exhaust/98637495.mp4 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/sc850/V35/twin%20exhaust/06945b11.mp4

concave wheels are measured exactly as ive described.... not sure what your drama is, maybe post a pic

it depends on the level of oxidisation as to whether the lense can be saved. meguiars do a headlight restoration kit, seen it done on an r34 and looks good i did a DIY version on my v35 - 1000 then 1500 grit wet rub with soapy water, plastic polish, then plastic protector. apart from needing to repolish the headlights once a month, its perfect. tried both techniques on a 2003 holden astra - fail. those could not be saved.

unfortunately sr20s are sought after in the datsun scene.... plenty dodgey people there wanting to turbo their rust bucket

brake trim panel is normally that price brand new, when you take out the middle man

Heres one for someone who wants to pay the right amount http://www.ebay.com....=item4d03b0da07

and it was this

^^ thats if the wheels already stick out past the guards.. but i think you were referring to putting the straight edge on the face of a wheel with pokey spokes... which is actually CONVEX concave means curved inward convex means curved out convex faced wheels are yet another small can of worms. you just need to add equal sized spacers to the ends of the straight edge that space the straight edge out from the wheel face. then allow for the spacers in the calculations. once again, it requires another big post with pictures to explain it properly

for concave wheels, its a bit more difficult. requires either a block against the edge of the wheel arch (the width of that you would account for in your calculations) or other tools that most people dont have... a gyprock L shaped square and a spirit level. or an engineers magnetic post and a plumb bob would work too. generally it requires a bit more specialised tooling that the average person doesnt have. i could write a completely different "how to" using those tools if people want to buy them i use pretty much a similar method to do my own wheel alignments too

F 20x8.5 +35 with 225-35-20 slightly tucked R 20x10 +42 with 255-30-20 slightly poking 2003 350z shocks and springs all round car sits at a safe height for everyday driving, could use another inch lower to look better, but im getting a bit old for that... would be happier if the fronts were +25 offset to match the poke of the rear. i dont post any full pics apart from the couple in the G35 thread. dont like to advertise.

looks pretty much like an oversized lexus is200

Another point of interest for V35 Sedan owners..... have a read thru the following thread on G35Driver.com.... 55+ pages of fitment pictures with details. My wheel whoreing is listed on page 54 http://g35driver.com/forums/media-share-g35-sedan-v35/225137-03-06-aftermarket-modded-oem-wheel-pics-thread.html