Deep Dish V35

looked into all of them, wanted the pm35 front with arx arches all round. decided it was a waste of time and money

^^ try it on injectors too if you can get to them

a bit of backyard mechanics 101 here... you can use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope. press one end onto the part of the engine you want to listen to. grip the handle with your thumb on the top of the handle. press the tip of that thumb into your ear with a bit of pressure the sounds travel up the screwdriver, thru the thumb and directly into the ear. if you can put the thumb tip onto bone it works better. you can listen in to various spots on the motor and almost pin point where its coming from

to date, thats definitely the best advice youve given yourself

as i said before its a standard T10 twist-in base you obviously have ALOT more research to do. to transplant the turbo motor and trans requires stripping the sedan to a COMPLETELY BARE shell. the entire electrical loom and dash needs to be swapped aswell - which means seats, carpet, dash, a/c, heater... all need to come out

hell no! i bought a used set with just 20,000km of use for 250 delivered from perth

ive already done all the research and planning on this... yes, quarter panel indicator looms needs to be extended approx 1 metre. same bulb fitting. headlight plug should be interchangeable. assuming both are HID of course you have to swap the bonnet, guards, bumper, rad support, grille, radiator, headlights, splash guards... when all parts are changed the bonnet catch and hinges will line up. oh and you'll be struggling to get all the bits for under $3000 im placing bets on this never happening

in adelaide - iron chef imports

the weakest nut on any gearbox is the nut behind the steering wheel. the key is to treat it nice, service it regularly, and dont be a tool. i personally find the auto shifts much better at 3/4 acceleration than when your foot is to the floor. the ecu tends to override manual mode when youre pushing it and you only really hear about the CVT8 gearboxes being problematic

hope i'll get there on time... currently doing a "shouldnt take long" repair on the other halfs car so she can go out today.

i was thinking injector, valve, maybe a cam lobe... most likely an injector wont be an inlet gasket because it would hiss, could possibly be an exhaust manifold gasket leak you could try using a mechanics stethoscope to have a clearer listen... the pdf's above should help you see what is under the area of the sound

try the Z springs first (with matching shocks if possible). if you dont like them, theyll easily sell

for mechanical info see here index http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2004/idx.pdf'>http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2004/idx.pdf then relate section by letters and page number http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2004/

you can imagine what a translated fuse sticker from china would be like

she said she had a big booking for the bar side too... oh well, we'll find out tomorrow

the place is going to be quite busy tomorrow theyre asking a deposit of $10 per head to book a table for this many people, so i suggest people get there just before 12 so we can 1) get a park, and 2) have a chat, then grab a table or choose to drive somewhere better

^^ yeah hate that too. mine clunks (and even get a click from the back end)

You always hear about the plenum spacer mod, but I never hear anything about the runner spacer or throttle body spacer. would either of these be helpful in an N/A setup?

I found my standard suspension was too soft for my local bad roads... was too easy for the body to float/bottom out but i agree, smaller sidewalls make it easier to dent a rim on potholes and things like that if your roads are that bad, id be buying that delorean.

If your budget is a bit lower, you can buy a full set of used (low KM) 350z shocks and springs for around $250 if you do some searching. most have under 50,000km when those guys upgrade. doesnt mean they'll be better than a new set, just comes down to personal preference

The stagea guys are doing a group buy on the trim panel the covers the brake booster which matches the battery cover if anyones interested, see this link. gotta be quick ! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/311501-m35-brake-fluid-panel-cover/

I linked them to a shop on ebay that was selling them not long ago, all 10 sold. I doubt they visit the stagea forum so I'll link this thread

Chris- these are something I believe need to be in this thread. edit it if you need to. For anyone requiring service manuals, see the following link NOTE -These are from USA so year models are slightly different (japan 2001/2002 = usa 2003/2004) -interior wiring is 90% opposite sides. -only covers VQ35 engine type. VQ25/30 versions are similar but not covered in these manuals http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/

Andrew, saying youve locked it in, does that mean you booked it?

For the rear, you are aiming quite wide. 10 inches wide, maximum +45 (will still poke out JUST A BIT) but will need a stretched 255 tyre so it doesnt rub on the guard lip 9.5 inches wide, +45 will be flush you'll struggle to find anything on the market higher than +45 offset either way.... on the front 8.5 inches wide, +30 offset... will be flush. +40 offset or higher and your tyre will rub the upper suspension arm 9's are the widest you'll get in there, unless you get aggressive offset having the rims poke out and stretch a narrow tyre. on a 9, nothing lower than +35 offset or you will hit the inner arm AND the guard lip as far as tyre fitments go..... every tyre is different. some 255's are physically wider than others. I found that out the hard way