Lazy-Bastard

I will have one also in the next few weeks, just have to find time to fit the ebc

this is the wheel http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=129387 pass on your one thanks $80 firm + post or you are welcome to pickup.

I have a series 1.5 wheel you can have for $100. It's in fairly good nick and has been modified to fit a S1. PM if interested

dont tell me......

payment made PM sent

bump

Overreact much?

Sorry for the late reply - the cooler has some bent fins on the front side, none on the back bump

+1 love the pumped guards

SOLD

$500 for a patition and CAI?!?!?!?!? How/where do I sign up

This thread is nearly 3 years old.....I suspect it has sold.....

Did a compression test 2 days ago. 1 - 164 2 - 165 3 - 158 4 - 165 5 - 165 6 - 165 Bump

Make:Nissan Model:1993 R33 GTST Milage:175xxx Transmission:Manual Colour:Black Location:Brisbane Complied?Yes RWC supplied?For serious buyer Currently registered?Yes Price:$15K oVno Contact:PM, post or 0414 249 292 Comments / Modifications: Engine/Drivetrain Apexi PowerFC with hand controller High flow RB25 turbo (max oversize from Sliding Performance) Deatschwerks 555cc injectors Splitfire coil packs Apexi pod filter with heat shield and CAI Greddy hard intake pipe Z32 AFM Stainless BATMBL split front/dump Faux 3” cat 3” exhaust from cat back with 5Zigen muffler 600x300x76 FMIC Walboro 255L fuel pump Sard FPR Oil Cooler and filter relocation kit Oil catch can Garage Defend carbon fibre air guide NPC 6 button clutch Shimmed factory LSD Suspension/Brakes/Wheels Tein height adjustable coilovers Whiteline swaybars front and rear Front adjustable castor rods Rear adjustable camber arms Pineapples HICAS Lock bar RDA slotted rotors (front) with Hawk HP+ pads Standard rear rotors with Lucas pads 18” Starcorp Impuls, deep dish on rear 235/40/18 Nexen N3000 90%(front) 255/35/18, Federal SS595 NEW(rear) Interior/Electrical/ICE Series 2 seats front and rear Series 1.5 steering wheel Autometer Sports comp gauges, Oil pres, Oil Temp, Boost Nismo GT gear knob Kenwood MP3 HU Kenwood 6” speakers f & r Fusion 12” sub with Jaycar 4ch response amp Body Type M front bar, grill, skirts and rear pods Series 2 rear wing Front bar has stone chips and bonnet has chips and a few scratches Paint is in good condition but there are numerous pin dents and a few scratches here and there. Timing belt was changed by previous owner at 80,000k’s, then again by me when I changed a leaking water pump at 120,000k’s Exhaust manifold was machined and gasket/studs replaced at around 160,000k’s due to a warped manifold and blown gasket. Engine oil changed religiously every 5000ks with Motul 8100, Brake fluid is Motul RBF600, Gearbox oil just changed (17/2/08) with Redline lightweight shockproof. Has run 12.5 @ 111mph and 64 seconds on the Sprint track at QR, both on street tyres Dyno'd at 263rwkw This car has been a daily driver for the past 4 years (70,000 kms) and has been extremely reliable. It’s a fairly complete package for a quick street car and is just as happy being driven sedately (regularly used to transport my 2 small children) as it is driven hard. Full boost (18psi) comes at around 3300rpm and power is very linear. Fuel consumption wise, Normal city/motorway driving sees 450 kms to 55 litres and I have seen 626 kms for 60 litres on a highway only trip. I don’t want it hanging around forever, so I am advertising at what I think is a very reasonable price, considering mileage, mods and performance. The car will come with 6 months QLD rego. Images:

I know for sure that the S1 and S2 do not have the same reo.

There are plenty for private sale around the $10K mark. I'm sure you wont have to look too far. You are never going to find one at that price from an importer/yard though.

We didn't have the throttle open, but you obviously could if need be. We used an air compressor, but wait for the compressor motor to stop before you start working so you don't have to listen over the compressor noise.

The easiest way to find the problem is going to be to pressure test your entire inlet tract, otherwise it could take ages to narrow it down. Another QLD user (FineLine) has had a tester fabricated and it is a VERY handy little tool. It's simply a 6" length of 90mm alloy pipe (he has a Q45 AFM, so you'd need 76mm from memory) closed on one end with a tyre valve attached. You simply remove your AFM, install the alloy tube in its place and slowly pressurise with a compressor up to your desired boost level (have someone watch your boost gauge!) It's amazing how many leaks you will find. Also, you aren't trying to listen for an air leak over a running engine which makes life a lot easier. After a 2 day road trip my car started having trouble developing boost. It would build really slowly and eventually hit full boost near redline, whereas previously it would hit ~3300rpm. We pressurised the system and found 3 boost leaks in the turbo/cooler plumbing. It's impossible to find them when stationary because you can't make any boost, and all the clamps/hoses etc seemed fine from visual and manual inspection. The owner was having idling issues the other day, he pressurised the inlet and found a hole in some flexible inlet piping and 2 leaking silicone joins. Fixed leaks/holes, fixed idle. If you went to an exhaust shop or the like I reckon you could get one knocked up for ~$25 and it would pay for itself in about 5 minutes.

100mm

Two air feeds > one