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Lazy-Bastard

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Everything posted by Lazy-Bastard

  1. It's a pretty basic camera, pretty basic operator as well
  2. I believe Mr Fineline may have one for sale if you ask nicely
  3. pics
  4. I reckon you will have a hard time trying to fit a pod in the standard airbox. You'd be better off getting something like a K&N panel if you want to retain the airbox.
  5. The knock readings on the PFC may or may not be actual engine knock. Sometimes a noise in the engine bay at whatever frequency the knock sensors are set to pick up will set them off. Regardless, the terms "pinging" and "knocking" are both detonation.
  6. They are the same thing dude
  7. I'll resize them when I get home and post them up
  8. Shouldn't the Sunny Coast thread be deleted as well for consistency?...............
  9. Niiiice Is there a ding in the turbo inlet pipe where the BOV return joins?
  10. Arsebandit
  11. That was Lunatik - apparently he had an alarm issue and was stuck there for a bit
  12. Here's 2 for you Noel. I haven't resized them yet so they are like 2mb+ Engine Bay 1 Engine Bay 2 Josh 1 Josh 2 I need a tripod and a better camera
  13. Great night, thanks to everyone, although I feel like arse this morning after 3 hours sleep :littleviolin: Gee, I wonder who deleted the other westside thread
  14. He makes a cameo every now and then Happy B'day James
  15. Item: R33 factory side skirts Age: off a 93 model Condition: passenger side has a crack and a paint chip - see pics Price: SOLD To Fit: R33 S1 or S2 Item: R33 stock injectors in rail Age: off a 93 model Condition: A couple of the pintle caps are broken and they will need a clean Price: $120 ONO To Fit: R33 GTST Item: 17" Seneca rims - NO TYRES Age: No idea.....came with the car Condition: both fronts and 1 rear have rash Price: SOLD To Fit: Whatever they fit - Front are 17x8 +35, Rears are 17x9 +38, 5x114.3 Item: 15 row oil cooler core - bought from "Performance wise" Age: 12 months old Condition: 1 mount has been removed to suit my install, another is slightly bent, has been sprayed black. works fine, no leaks Price:SOLD To Fit: Whatever Item: R33 factory intercooler Age: off a 93 model Condition: typical for age Price: $20 ONO To Fit: R33 S1 or S2 Item: R33 factory fuel pressure regulator Age: off a 93 model Condition: working fine when removed Price: $40 ONO To Fit: R33 GTST S1 or S2 Item: R33 GTST actuator Age: unknown Condition: Came with a blown turbo I bought, so unsure Price: $30 ONO To Fit: whatever Item: R33 factory castor rods with aftermarket bushes Age: off a 93 model Condition: good Price: $50 ONO To Fit: R33 Item: R33 factory rear camber arms Age: off a 93 model Condition: normal Price: $40 ONO To Fit: R33 S1 or S2 Item: R33 GTST series 1 AFM (Green sticker) Age: off a 93 model Condition: Works fine, but one of the 4 bolt holes where it mounts to the airbox/pod is broken. Price: SOLD To Fit: R33 S1 Location: Brisbane west Contact: PM, post or call/text 0414249292
  16. I have a crossover pipe, but no BOV ($20) and also 370cc injectors still in rail ($100). The injectors will need cleaning though. PM if interested.
  17. Can't see anything obvious in the pic but it almost looks like you are missing some turbo gasket material. Is the leak between the head and exhaust manifold, or between the manifold and the turbo? Either way it sounds like new gasket time.
  18. I have had 2 snapped and recessed studs removed using this method. I'm pretty sure this is how most exhaust places would do it too.
  19. I picked up a spare crossover pipe for cheap so decided to have a go at polishing. Deleted the seams on either side as well as some "unnecessary" fittings just to neaten it up a bit. Then gave it a once over with a 120 grit sanding disk using a drill to get rid of the really rough stuff, then by hand with 180, 400, 800 and 1200 (contemplated 2000 but CBA), then just polished it with some Autosol. It's by no means perfect, but I'm happy enough, and it almost matches the sheen of the cooler piping.
  20. Keep it in the DIN pocket and mount your gauges elsewhere? IMO it's gonna be ugly hanging off the side of the tunnel, and how do you plan on hiding the loom? Personally I don't like DIN mounted gauges. You have to shift your focus too far from your normal field of vision to check them. I have mine mounted on the steering column and it's a quick glance down, as you normally would when checking speed/revs etc. I can still see all my factory gauges apart from oil pressure, which isn't accurate anyway and I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. If you get a DIN pocket with the flap on the front, then the ECU can be hidden from prying/theiving eyes as well.
  21. I use the method described by Bonkers in the above link. Remove the 2 screws on either side holding the bar to the guards Remove the 2 14mm nuts/bolts on either side holding the reo bar to the chassis rails Disconnect electrical connections to fog lights Slide bar and reo off in one piece It's a <10 minute job once you've done it a few times
  22. No idea on a 32GTR but I had a similar problem when replacing a power steering hose on a 33GTST. I just cut the old hose off the metal pipe with a stanley knife. I presume the hose in question is the one being replaced so damaging it isn't an issue. The hose I was using as a replacement was much more flexible than the perished factory one, so getting it back on was easy. Check yours first before cutting I guees.
  23. I don't have a lot of faith in the factory oil pressure gauge but your readings sound normal. I have an aftermarket gauge and it shows completely different readings to the factory one. I've had an electrical and a mechanical gauge both showing the same readings, so I'm pretty sure it's accurate. When at normal operating temp. my oil pressure is about 30psi (~2 bar) at idle and about 80psi at 3000rpm, on the aftermarket gauge. Don't take too much notice of the reading when the engine is cold as they will always be higher until your oil warms up and thins out a bit. And, yes it is also normal for oil pressure to rise and fall as the engine revs do. Do an oil change so you know what you have in there ( I'd suggest a full synth 5 or 10W 40) and then relax, it all sounds normal.
  24. If the car was fitted with an airbag from the factory and you wish to replace the steering wheel, the new wheel must have an airbag as well.
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