Lazy-Bastard

I know how you feel...I think I'm getting old Glenn was in the black Integra typeR....VTEK YO!!!

I got half a session on the clubman (very messy), I think I got a 1:08.xx, and 1 session on the sprint (1:04.xx) before I blew an exhaust manifold gasket There was a bit of carnage in the SAU group..... edit: Boo to the people who said they'd come and didn't. Those spots could have been filled by people who actually did want to race....

boo - doesn't really give a chance for comparison IMO - It's only 2 extra parameters (which make a big difference)

1 more sleep

Car: R33 GTST Turbo: Slide high-flow Tyres: Federal SS595 255/40/17 @ 18psi Date: 16-05-07 Time: 5:39pm Output in rwkw: 215 according to the Allstar dyno...... Track: Willowbank Air Temp: 21 degrees Track Temp: 29 degrees Humidity: 1018mB Reaction time: .782 60ft: 1.73 ET: 12.58 MPH: 111.3

what about tyre type and NOS or no?

Car: R33 GTST Turbo: Slide high-flow Tyres: Federal SS595 255/45/17 @ 18psi Date: 16-05-07 Time: 5:39pm Output in rwkw: 215 according to the Allstar dyno...... Track: Willowbank Air Temp: 21 degrees Track Temp: 29 degrees Humidity: 1018mB Reaction time: .782 60ft: 1.73 ET: 12.58 MPH: 111.3

Death to clutch?

Not if you use the method I just outlined. You are talking about removing the bar and leaving the reo in place (makes life harder). It is much easier to remove the bar from the reo with the whole lot (bar and reo) removed.

Pull the engine and repaint the bay

Remove inner guard from each wheel arch Remove 2 screws on each side (in wheel arch) that attach front bar to front guard Undo electrical connections to front bar indicators Remove one nut and one bolt on each chassis rail that attach front bar reo to rail Slide bar (with reo attached) forward Done

Happy Birthday DEFECTOR!

LOL, I hope that was a joke.... I don't launch in 2nd, I do my burnout in 2nd.

From memory about 70-80psi @ 3000rpm

Can't comment on the pressure before the cooler was installed as I didn't have an aftermarket gauge and my factory ones is crap. When the autometer gauge reads 70psi the factory one is on or about the 3 mark

Yes. I will have to get the oil up to full temp ~80 degrees and check the pressure then. It's a bit hard though because with the cooler it normally sits at about 70 degrees unless I am thrashing it

thanks for the tips....much appreciated

I fitted a generic oil cooler about 6 months ago and have been a bit worried about my oil pressure. On cold start at 3000rpm it is at, or over, 100psi (aftermarket pressure gauge) Even when warm I am seeing around 70psi at just over 3000rpm and it's starting to worry me. I thought it may have been the oil I was using (Motul 8100 - 5w-40) as it was getting to its 5000kms change time, so changed to a 0w-40 but the pressure is still the same. Does anyone else have high oil pressure with one of these kits? I'm starting to think maybe the cores are a bit restrictive causing the rise in oil pressure. i have checked all the lines and there are no kinks or anything and it is all plumbed correctly. With a track day coming this thursday I want to sort it out beforehand if it IS an issue. Any advice would be appreciated.

LOL Hope it doesn't rain :S

Big Kev style! That is all.

In before the lockdown

Now you're trying to sell it on ebay? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-300k...1QQcmdZViewItem Dodgy kent! I pity the fool who gets sucked in....

LOL, I'm not really complaining, just wondering if there is any improvement to be made with a big burnout. If not, I'll just keep using the same method.

I have a pair. 1 clip is missing. PM if interested

Did you just buy the car recently? Maybe the previous owner was known to police? Do you look like a dodgy farker?