Lazy-Bastard

Not sure if it's a GTR or GTST one, it fit perfectly on my GTST though. I bought it 2nd hand of a forum member

LOL....when you have a car that actually runs, then you can comment on the strength of my sauce

Due to work and family commitments, I won't be able to make it

At a guess, I'd say that black 'air filter box' on the drivers side is your charcoal canister (there isn't one in the stock position, so I'd say that is where the compliance shop decided to put it). You are going to have to remove it or relocate it if you want to use the piping kit you have, as you have to cut a hole roughly where it is positioned to feed the piping through.

It will be easier connecting it to the MAP sensor AT the MAP sensor rather than trying to decipher the wiring at the ECU. There are 3 wires at the MAP sensor - I can't remember which one is the signal - PM rio228 as he just installed one recently http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showuser=33168

Yes, they use an AFM, BUT there is still a MAP sensor, whether it be for boost readings only or not, I don't know. 99.9999% sure it's a MAP sensor

Jesus you're a dodgy kent Bryan.....

For R33's (GTST's at least) the MAP sensor is to the left of the brake booster, near the firewall, looking from the front of the car (little black box with a vac line running to the inlet plenum)

Happy Birthday Island Boy

Thanks for the help, problem solved. Stupid leaking cooler join.......Haven't driven it yet but it was literally hanging off I had the exhaust manifold off the other day replacing a blown gasket and mustn't have tightened one of the clamps enough. I will stop bagging the V Power racing now

Fair enough, but if a car is tuned on another fuel is it normal for it to run like crap on V-Power racing?

No offence but........ Garage Defend FTW

Milton, Corronation drive. The annoying thing is I drove all the way there specifically for it, just to give it a go. Filled up 55 litres of the shit too

I just filled up with V-Power racing for the first time (normally use BP ultimate). I don't know if it's a coincidence or what but the car is driving like absolute crap. It started off missing as soon as I made any boost and deteriorated to the point where it is even missing at idle now. The car was tuned on BP ultimate and has never run on anything else since then. Does anyone think the fuel is to blame? I spoke to a friend who is fairly cluey with this type of thing and he said his Bosch 040 didn't like the V-Power racing either and mentioned something about ethanol enriched fuels being thicker than those without. Anyone got any ideas? I advanced the timing a few degrees and that seemed to improve things slightly, but it still wasn't anywhere near behaving normally. Either way, I am going to dump the fuel and go back to Ultimate and see if that resolves the issue.

+1

spotted! Happy Birthday

Most of these kits have 3" outlets from the cooler and use reducers to 2.5"

2.5"

Not sure if series 1 and 2 plugs are different, but I have a series 1 plug if that helps. PM if interested.

I have one in Brisbane. PM if interested.

I have one in Brisbane. One of the eyelets is broken but I was using it like that for 2 years and it was fine. $100 + delivery. PM if interested.

Aren't they ALL warped? I'd say most secondhand ones would need machining anyway. I just had mine machined, and apart from the bow from ports 1 - 6, each port flange was twisted as well. Now I know why I've done 2 gaskets in the last 12 months

Another vote here for the Slide hi-flow When you say your car has "stock everything", does that include exhaust and intercooler? To get the best bang for your buck and semi-decent results, you will at least need a turbo back exhaust and a bigger intercooler (front mount or maybe R34 sidemount), as well as some type of ECU (even a piggyback like an SAFC will get you bye). $1K isn't going to cover it really, as you're looking at that kind of money just for the hi-flow. Cooler and exhaust if you shop around/buy second hand you can probably pick up for another ~$700, ~$200 for an SAFC, then installation (if you can't do it yourself) and tuning (~$200) on top of that. This kind of setup on a lowish boost level (11 - 12psi) should see you around the 200rwkw mark, but a stock clutch isn't going to last long at that power level. Fuel pump, AFM, injectors should be fine until you hit 220rwkw+

Conspiracy theory.......IT WAS YOUR MATE

Pfffffttt Like getting blood from a stone...