XGTRX

Nice and strong. Must be nice to drive on the street and should be a blast on the track. Good stuff mate.

Yeah I might have to check them. The drive train is all good, mounts and rubbers are all good. It's an intermittent thing that happens when there is low load on the drivetrain as gtr joey described as if some slack is introduced and just thinking about it there is a bit of roughness when itt happens. But I will check the engine mounts as there may be a bit of movement. Intermittent stuff does my head in.

Thanks. I will check them then. It has happened since the engine went back in so might be the problem. Thanks again

Thanks mate, so could this lead to potential slop in the drive train the reason is I find a bit of back lash on occasions but not all the time. Was trying to work out why it was intermittent because uni joint, diff, and transmission issues would cause it to be there all the time I assume.

can you explain this?

Just an update. Nearly 2 years and one engine out hoses are all great. No issues. Still look pretty too. Hope this helps someone. Cheers.

(long, short) blinks 1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit 2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit 3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit 4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit 11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit 12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit 13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit 15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit 16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit 17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit 31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit 34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit 41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit 43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit 45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit 47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit 51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit 53,54 Pressure switch and circuit 55 Air bleed switch and circuit 56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit 61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit 62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit 63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit 64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit 65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit 66 Side G sensor and circuit 75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor got it from here https://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rattesainfrormation

Try this Under you rear parcel shelf in the boot there is a contoller (box) driver's side. Get a mirror underneath it and you will see an red led. With the engine running and the dash error light on, check the led. it should flash in sequence. like one long flash and some short flashes. Note them down and look up the error. If its one of the TPS type errors it likely to be a ground or the power cable off your starter motor check that first. Also look at the connector of you gearbox loom that runs above the front drive shaft. cheers

Solution to response in a 26, keep it above 4000rpm. Cost= $0

Well just an update> Did the install and very impressed with the unit so far. Bit of mucking around with the relay wiring and seeing that the rear seats were out I ran a 4G wire from the negative terminal to the engine bay and ran the main earths to it. Mounted the gauge to the dash just above the wiper stalk and the solenoid and map sensor in the engine bay. Did all the programming through the gauge and it was the easiest menu system I have ever seen. Did the free air calibration for the o2 sensor just a matter of switching the ignition with the sensor disconnected and waiting for the prompt, then plugged it back in and powered the unit and the cal was performed, the plugged it into the exhaust...done. Then set up the boost cut to 20psi until i put it on the dyno not that you really need to dyno it. And set 100% cut which means it cuts to sping pressure or 9psi. Then set the spring pressure to 9psi, They recommend 1-2 psi below the actuator spring pressure to prevent boost spikes. Then set the boost cut at afr so I set 10psi at 12.9 afr. What it does is if boost is above 10psi and afr is12.9 or more then the the boost will be cut to spring pressure (9 psi). Slowing increased the duty cycle to achieve about 18 psi. Didnt play with the gain yet. Driving around for a week or so and works very well. Dispay is nice and clear and when solenoid is working it dispays the duty cycle. Noticed instantly that there was a qicker build up of boost at about the 6-12 psi range probably due to the actuator remaining closed. So now going to run the 5V output to the ecu and program it to cut ignition if it goes lean, also set up a warning LED on the gauge that gets triggered by the ecu. Interesting to note to is that the unit has triggered a boost cut a couple of times at about 15psi at wot, So what happens is that the boost drops to 9psi and then builds back up. Suprisingly gently too. So I will see what happens on the dyno and then have a look at the ecu log. Again just played with the settings as I was not really interested in getting it spot on, just wanted to make sure it did what it was meant to do and so far very impressed.

What does your arse dyno say because if it has dropped that much it would be a totally different car to drive.

you sure not comparing hp to kws?

Price drop $19000 Tell your mates Want it gone Make an offer

My much loved Clubby is ready for a new home. Bought in 2006 with 8000km I have been the sole owner and now have done 205 000km. It has been meticulously maintained. Oil and filter change every 5000. The car has been tastefully modified which includes. Engine: OTR Cold air intake Mafeless tune Flowbenched tested Ported head. Crow Cams Heavy Duty valve springs, retainers, pushrods, lifters and valves Crow Cams 227/231 Tuff street cam Extractors, twin 2.5 inch exhaust with varex muffler Drive train: 3000 rpm hi stall converter Transmission strengthening kit with transmission cooler 3.9 diff gears. Exterior is very good, methodically maintained however there are stone chips in the front section due to most of the km being highway kms. Interior is excellent however has driver seat bolster is slightly worn, As mentioned car has been meticulously maintained with new radiator, rear rotors and pads, front shocks all changes less than 3000km ago. Car has hardly been driven lately due to buying other cars but I garaged it for a long term keeper but not driving it enough is not what these cars are about. This car is an awesome car for an enthusiast and lover of HSVs. The cam gives that old-school lumpiness that all V8 fans love. I always get comments on the condition and awesome sound of the car. The car is priced to sell. So make me an offer. PM me. $20 000 ONO. Throw me an offer as I want to sell the car for someone else to enjoy. I will consider all reasonable offers. Thanks.

But that's what the whole topic was about! But now you know how to fix it, you don't want to fix it because now it's not a problem. Hmmmm at least you're consistent. You're funny.

^^^^ nah not important he he he

Hmmmm

Ryco is fine, never had an issue.

The bearing cage on -5s have issues I was told. He showed me the bearing and it was like brand new. He was impressed In theory I suppose but never had an issue on both cars, LS2 is a stock bottom end using this oil for about 100,000 kms, rb26 is forged so I get piston slap when it's cold anyway because of the increased piston to bore clearance, so cold, the thicker oil wouldn't be an issue I suppose. But I never push it until it's up to 70-80 degrees.

Just thought I would give a bit of info on my experience. Fully forged rb26 with 7 or 9 litres sump (sorry can't remember) and oil cooler. 30,000 km on the engine, oil and filter change maximum every 5000. Only ever used Penrite HPR Diesel 15 Engine Oil - 15W-50, 10 Litres for about $78. Had good experience with this oil in my LS2 so stuck by it. Anyway had a noisy turbo bearing so decided to check the sump. I was pretty happy, here is a picture of the crank untouched. I think the oil did it's job quite well and diesel additives kept it nice and clean. I forgot to take a picture of the sump but there were no deposits or discoloration, perfect. Btw turboworld said the turbo bearing cage issue had nothing to do with the oil as the bearings were perfect. Oil pump was also pristine. Hope this contributes to the knowledge base. Thanks

Thanks makes sense.

But then how do they get an accurate reading on a dyno if a car has a cat with the o2 sensor in the tail pipe?

But you do air calibrations on most of them to keep then true anyway.

I have always wondered why not use it after the cat because given that a cat removes some impurities wouldn't the sensor run cleaner?

Oh yeah that's one of the articles I read....20 inches was the consensus with most wideband kits.. not 20cm like I mentioned..sorry for the inaccuracy.