XGTRX

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I find -9s boring, but that's just me. -5s are very good in-between turbo, yes, a bit more lag, and come on nice and strong. I have driven Laggy -5 set ups and more responsive -5 setups like mine and you can improve the response significantly with the correct breathing support to optimise the turbine spool. But anyway it's what ever floats people's boat. When my turbos have had enough I will be going TO4Z or similar because that's what I like. Obviously the op has made his decision with turbo choice and ask a specific question, and the answer to his question is YES, based on his current setup he can improve response by 500 rpm or more with certain changes without emptying his bank account, it would have been nice if he installed bigger dumps when he installed the turbos though. My 2 cents take it as you will.

No worries mate. Yeah the 3.5inch exhaust will make a noticeable difference just get the exhaust place to cut out the 3 inch restriction near the down pipe flange and put a 3.5 inch flange. Also don't worry what people say, -5s are perfect for the rb26, they come on nicely from 3500ish.

You need to upgrade inter-cooler, injectors, dumps, pumps and at least a 3.5 inch exhaust from front pipe collector into good hi flowing system especially for e85 you have too much restriction currently for good response out of -5s at 3500rpm you should be close to 50-70% of full boost Also check your cams are dialed in for response. Its a shame you didnt do the dumps with the turbo change. If you dont want to spend the coin just do the 3.5 inch exhaust from front pipe collector into good hi flowing system..... you should get improved response just from this.

HA HA HA............Priceless

Niiiiice!!!

Thanks guys it all makes sense. I have also noticed and intermittent bang rear passenger side when going over bumps so will have to address that too. But XKLABA's explanation makes sense to me. So gearbox out again I suppose.

It's rubbish mate. Download the pro evo demo and give it a go. You will be impressed

You can always try slick50 with a 50 or 60 weight oil and see how you go. But if you want to half save it then get it done and don't drive it. Good luck.

No foot on the brake and foot on the accelerator for me either, have more fun in a high stalled auto if that's the case. Give me a pick of any high performance/ supercar and I would take the one with 3 pedals every time.

Also a front end undertray will create negative pressure near the sump which has proven very effect in engine bay temps and also reduce turbulence in the engine bay to increase cooling efficiency of the intercooler and radiator. There are a few tests done that back this up. I think autospeed saw up to 10 degree drop from memory.

Yep its a death rattle.

Your setup is all you need. The wrap and blanket will make a huge difference. No need to ceramic coat as the wrap and blanket is much more effective to reduce under bonnet temps especially if you wrap down to the cat. Ceramic coating just looks prettier.

This ^^^^^ and run the trigger through it.

Seriously you just need to workout what u want in a car. If u get an 86 and with all the performance parts available in a couple of years you will probably be in the same boat as what you are in today with your 34. And then you will say to yourself if I put all that money into you 34 I could have had an insane car. It's a sickness ha ha. But Horses for courses really. If you want a rwd 86 type car, go an nicely set up and tuned S15 and never look back, better car in every way.

Looks nice and clean mate. Nice

hey mate t04z setup with dump pm me thanks

Ha ha, but lag makes me happy

Yeah I have seen some T04z dynos graphs where there is 100kws at 3800rpm and 380kws by 4800 rpm. That would be insane. Like a switch. Love it. Ha ha

I have an rb26 and my pockets aren't deep. But I just love waiting a bit longer for boost. Actually been looking at some T04z setups... they look like fun.

Not sure on this only because the cas disc runs both cam (360) and crank (6) so ultimately if the cam belt is slapping away it still wouldn't affect the phasing or referencing of the cam to crank triggers because they are on the same disc. The two triggers are not separated by the cam belt. However by the optical sensor missing counts on the 360 cam triggers then you could see how the rpm trace variations occur. 3-10 missed counts and you have 3-10 degrees timing variations as can be seen on a few traced posted up. If the cam belt was slapping around at extreme levels then you would have other issues, but the rev signal trace itself would not be affected, as in, it would not change the phasing between cam and crank triggers because they are on the same disc

We spun them at varying rpm and rev synch captured the triggering waveforms and saw that the optical sensors missed triggers and also moved the edges, as in the tdc trigger was moved ahead or behind a 24 pulse trigger if that makes sense. With the hall effect trigger on the cas there was no such discrepancy. It was exactly the same events that were occurring on the engine and they were occurring at the same time. So the conclusion drawn was that the optical sensor was the problem, seeing that the same issue is common place with rbs, I thinks its a reasonable conclusion to draw, and to solve the problem any hall effect setup off the crank or even a cam only hall effect trigger will work. I have never seen a hall effect trigger system not work.

I spun em up on a drill and still had the above mentioned problems. So it eliminated the belt theory.

I still think its the optical pickups in the cas that are the problems, because even with a 24/1 aem trigger disc i still saw issues, when we hacked up the cas with a hall effect pick up with 24/1 set up, had no problem.

If you street tune it it's wise to either have an afr gauge so just wait until the new exhaust because it will probably change you tune a bit anyway. That's what I would do anyway. Good luck.

Just advance a bit at a time. Have you got an afr/ wideband gauge?