XGTRX

Ha ha ha

It's got to do with the optical sensor. I have seen it with my own eyes. We were bench testing an optical sensor and synch capturing the cas signal on a haltec and it was jumping all over the place. We mocked up a 12-1 hall effect cas and the signal was perfect. As nismoid mentioned it may be the new ecu's resolution or the pfc can some how read the 360 disc with its 6 triggers that are different widths that let it more accurately localise the engine phase and position in the rotation. Given all that I think the optical pick ups is the problem because even the aem 24-1 with the factory optical sensors has sync problems with the haltec

You need to check it with a light off the crank before you do anything. If there is that much variance with a light then it may be the dreaded modern ecu/ cas issue where the only real remedy is a crank trigger. But don't do anything until you test it with a light.

What!? That's insanity, that's madness, that's ridiculous!? How can you possibly drive a 33 without flogging it, that is their purpose and you can't drive them any other way. That's the excuse we all use ha ha

If that's the case

*cough* *cough*

Just lock your timing on the haltec and make sure it's the same as the timing light. The cas shouldn't be the issue it's usually the haltec if the timing is the problem

Sad man. Really sad.

Have you checked your spark plugs, starter motor power cable connected properly, if all ok check your timing to make sure the haltec is reading the same as your timing light. Sounds as though the timing is retarded for some reason.

At least a pfc still reads timing like it should. Other ecus have intermittent issues with the 360-6 cas. That's why people should have funds for a crank trigger just in case.

Total is 209000. All the work was done at about 120000ish

Just clicked on your instagram...nice car mate. Congrats

$80 x2 still under $1000

Used pfc and 2 X new z32 afms... less than $1000

With the average Joe as 90% of us are with a 300 odd kw car with the odd track day thrown in, a pfc or similar with afms is adequate,as it was in the 90s. An engine still needs it's air, fuel and spark managed today as it did 15 years ago.

So you have fork out $300 every 10 years or so... not a great expense. to a certain point they are just as good as maps if the tuner knows what he is doing and there are a few around that do.

The senator had no where near that power to run that mph. Near stock 34and you ripped him, well done mate. Ha ha even the commentator was surprised. Nice time too.

All in all the haltec is a good system. Good functions and options. Just be mindful that it has intermittent problems in processing the cas signal which lead to timing variations of up to 20 degrees. Not the only system that does this either. That's why a pfc is always a safe bet if all the extra functions aren't needed.

Long story short is my rear window washer motor stopped working 6 months ago and then my front window washer 1 month ago. Step by step guide to fix the issue: Time: 20 minutes to an hour, 2 days to completely re-install and operate. Tools: Socket set, test light, Multi-grips, WD40, Silicon sealant, steak knife, tooth picks, cotton buds, scourer, rags Check to see if there is power to the washer motors which are located in the front of the washer bottle. 1. Pull the electrical plugs and use a test light. Ignition on and get someone to fire up the washers from the stalk. In my case had power to both plugs so I cleaned the connectors on the motors plugged them back in and tried again. No luck so the motors had seized. If you have no power with your test light check the fuses i suppose. Removing the motors: 1. Take the washer bottle out with 10mm socket on the 2 screws. Pull the electrical connector. Lift the bottle. 2. Tip the bottle so the pumps are facing up and disconnect the tubing. Don't disconnect the tubing with the bottle in its normal position or water will leak everywhere. 3. Take the bottle out and tip out the water. 4. The motors are held in place by rubber grommets so just pull the motors in different angles to pries them free. 5. Motors are out. Taking the motors apart and getting them to work again So the motors are basically plastic cylinders with a brush electrical motor in it that spins an impeller that pushes water into the washer pipe. So its not spinning, so lets have a look. 1. The plastic case has 2 ends that are removable. I tried to pry it open but couldn't so i just started cutting with a knife and then i could get them off. 2. The bottom of the motor has the impeller (where the water outlet is), the top has the guide for the shaft of the armature. 3. I then tried to spin the impeller with my fingers and it was locked then i gently turned the shaft and impeller and got some movement but there was a lot of resistance. we have found the problem. 4. Use the tip of a knife to take the impeller off (gently). 5. At the other end use multi-grips on the shaft and pull and twist to free the armature from the magnets and take the armature out. 6. So you are left with a pretty dirty motor in pieces. Time to clean 7 If you look in you will see the contacts and at the base is where the armature shaft contacts the guide..... filth. 8. Using tooth picks, cotton buds and WD40 I rubbed and cleaned everything I could see. Especially the magnets, armature coils (use scourer), and other contact points. Use the toothpicks to move the contacts out of the way to get to the bottom support which is usually filthy. A note, dont use steel wool as the filings might attach to the magnets and cause issues with the armature. 9. All clean. 10. Now time to put it back together. Slide the armature back in and carefully slide the shaft in between the contacts, push a bit so it goes into the home position and put the top back on. Make sure the shaft is in the guide and tape the top cover down to hold it in. 11. Put the impeller on the shaft the right way (flat side out and line up the flat edge on the shaft). Spin the impeller with your fingers and admire how freely it spins. Now put the end back on and tape it on. Testing the operation of the motor Now its time to see if it works 1. With a taped up motor go back to the car and connect the motor to the connector and fire up the washers from the stalk. Listen to the music as your motor buzzes away. Just like new. Resealing the motor Need to reseal the motor with bathroom silicon sealant. Just pull an end off at a time and apply some sealant with your finger where the cap mates with the cylinder edge and put it back on. Don't get any inside as it could foul the motor as it spins. Then rub some sealant around the edge it to seal it. Then do the other end. Then let them sit for 2 days and re-install everything. Just a hint with the washer bottle re-installation is that it has a small lip the fits under a little mount on the drivers side edge, so put this in first then do the 2 screws up. Fill it up with water and admire your work. Done Hope this helps....cheers

Price drop $18000. Make an offer as i need to buy my daughter her first car.... ooohhh the pressure. Need it gone before chistmas.....will consider near offers fellas so go for your lives.

I will have a check. cheers

not sure mate it was just a heavy duty single plate that was re-done by a local bloke that owed a mate a favour..... ha ha that may be the problem maybe

nope it was perfect before the clutch install. no whining no noises. Is it possible that the clutch install with old flywheel could be the problem?

backlash as in a hammering of the drivetrain. Back and forth hammering when driving in a carpark. As if the driveline has slack in it. Also notice it when cruising if i come off throttle suddenly.

Just hoping for some light on the subject. Had a worn standardish clutch that was replaced with a single plate heavy duty thing and I have noticed: 1. A fair bit of backlash in the drive train. 2. Hard to put it into 1st when stopped as i have to let the car roll a bit to get it in gently 3. A change from 1st to second is a bit hard 4. Drive train backlash when going slow in a car park where I have to ride the clutch a bit. 5. Noticed backlash when on and off throttle esp in 3, 4, 5th gears. Never had any issues prior to the clutch being installed and I was told the fly wheel (standard) was in good nick so it wasn't changed. Gearbox is perfect. No diff or drive train noises or whines. So asking for advice to remedy the situation. Thanks