XGTRX

I am sure you mentioned this on page 2 of this thread....

28 pages of information condensed into one simple action plan...this is all that you need to do before anything else.

As mentioned previously you need a LOG if you want to find out exactly what is happening.

Is this a tune or log?

So this is your tune?

Because you really don't know what your exhaust pressure is. If you are venting to atmosphere you do know what the pressure is. Also by an additional venting point you are equalizing the engine pressure and not relying on one point of relief. At the end of the day whatever you have now isn't working very well. So maybe just try what has suggested and see how it goes. Sometimes you just have to do what's been proven to work and not get into the paralysis by analysis trap which sometimes we are all guilty of.

Try this, cam cover vent to catch can

You need to relieve the pressure from rocker cover breather to the catch can to stop it breathing through your dip stick.

Yeah but if both valves are closed when the car is on boost, where is the positive crankcase pressure going, the only way out is through the dipstick, yes? It can't be scavenged through the exhaust because the exhaust gasses would causing positive pressure compared to the crankcase. Or have I got this totally wrong?

beat me to it ha ha ha

So when on full boost if the pcv will close, the venturi system is closed because of positive pressure from the exhaust, where is the positive crankcase pressure going, only way out is through the dipstick isn't it?

This may be your problem. Where is the coolant coming from and where is it going.

Agreed. If it's electrical related check the earths, battery, engine, igniter and cas. Clean, sand and remount. Start here before you touch anything, especially if anything was played with from when the problem started.

Hmmm

Or penrite 15W50 either/or doesnt matter, just dump it after with a filter as suggested

This may help: the relays under the steering colum are where i would start if you can't find any blown fuse on the boards with the panel near the steering wheel. You may hear them clicking when you lock and unlock the doors.

Reverberation issue, that's why I assume.

Only recommendation I have is if you want to manage it yourself is buy a afr kit for $200 that way you know exactly what your mixtures are, and also log a real-time graph on your ignition to see if there is variance when it is on boost. Knock sensors are good but not perfect and if you have a noisy gates belt or cam/bearing type noise it could be triggering knock or you could be detonating and not hearing it. Your tune maybe out because you had it tuned with boost leaks and now it is running lean at wot but dumps fuel when off throttle because of the reverberation problem. Or the gates belt is causing variance in timing, might have to do the aem mod to the cas to stabilise timing. So many things it could be. Maybe get an afr kit and see how it reads. Or maybe bring it back to your tuner.

This may be a stupid question but did all these issues exist when you took it off your tuner? Are you running the same boost level that it has been tuned for?. Did your tuner know of the knocking problem? What you are describing does not make sense at all.

Does it blow black smoke when it comes on

I have an energy depolerizer from a vl brocky. It may help all your problems in one hit.

^^^^^^^ This!^^^^^^Don't ignore the elephant in the room. I think as a thread consensus this is the thing causing all your issues. As people have already fixed similar issues by addressing reverberation problem you might too. Don't you think? Seems logical. Doesn't it?

Wow.. well said

Didn't someone reposition their afm somewhere near the intercooler to solve a similar issue? Can't remember exactly.

Yep just dose it and enjoy