XGTRX

Foggy day I think.

^^^^^ This man has his priorities right. He knows what's important.. Dosing and skids= Heaven

Don't you have to run these Bosch sensors in the collector just before the cat or they are inaccurate. I think they need to be at least 20cm from the turbo. I will probably weld the bung in the collector, could have one in each front pipe as XKLABA suggested. Might see if I can use the shift light as a lean warning light too. See how I go.

Sorry my bad. I assumed that going a 3L you would upgrade the supporting mods, water and oil pump, timing belt, clutch and at least a dyno tune. Obviously not the case, I apologise.

So who has bought them and not been happy with them.. anyone?

Stock engines weren't designed to rev at 8500 rpm for 10 secs bouncing off the limiter at double the intended boost. Do that to most engines and you will kill them.

So you are saying it is possible with a blown 25 to build a 25/30 on the road for that price? Don't think so. Not even close.

Yeah then he can build a 25/30 for $2-3k

Well I have ordered the unit. I thought it was good value for money for what it does, solenoid is on par with other reliable brands. So I will do a little write up of the install for anyone who is interested and let you know how it goes.

But now the air is going blow past your thermostat and make it colder so it will never get up to temp... So you need a stronger spring.. >_>

????

Agreed, progressive or dual stage are better. I have mine coming in green at 500rpm under and then a red at the shift point which is 500 rpm under the limiter. Here is a video on the abovementioned unit. Innovate Motorsports SCG-1 Electronic Boost Contr…:

Yeah true, But I havent got a ebc or wideband so I suppose its killing 2 birds with one stone, plus I could connect the 5V output to the ecu to tell it to apply the limitter and add fuel if a lean situation occurred. Just thinking out aloud. For about $450 I think its good value. Be nice if it had an analogue gauge though. Any negatives you guys can see?

I was more interested in the boost cut feature if the mixture leans out.

The manual is here SCG-1 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php

Hey people, just wondering if anyone has used this product: SCG-1: Solenoid Boost Controller w/Wideband Gauge Kit (ALL-IN-ONE) - P/N: 3882 Link: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16351&cat=276&page=1 It says: The Innovate Motorsports SCG-1 is a revolutionary approach to boost control that integrates an advanced standalone boost controller with Innovate’s industry leading DirectDigital™ wideband air fuel ratio technology. When we decided to build a boost controller, we knew we had to offer more capabilities than other products available today, while still maintaining the user friendly functionality demanded by our customers. Instead of repackaging the same boost control technology that has been used for decades, we choose to pair our advanced O² sensor control technology with our all-new, proprietary solenoid control that provides superior boost control accuracy, response and safety. We also added a user programmable shift light and housed the entire package in a compact gauge body for ease of installation and use. Looks like a decent product.

dreaming

Something basic for you to read because if you blow something you really wont learn anything. This is from garrett. When discussing engine tuning the 'Air/Fuel Ratio' (AFR) is one of the main topics. Proper AFR calibration is critical to performance and durability of the engine and it's components. The AFR defines the ratio of the amount of air consumed by the engine compared to the amount of fuel. A 'Stoichiometric' AFR has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric, A/F ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. The stoichiometric AFR depends on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesel. So what is meant by a rich or lean AFR? A lower AFR number contains less air than the 14.7:1 stoichiometric AFR, therefore it is a richer mixture. Conversely, a higher AFR number contains more air and therefore it is a leaner mixture. For Example: 15.0:1 = Lean 14.7:1 = Stoichiometric 13.0:1 = Rich Leaner AFR results in higher temperatures as the mixture is combusted. Generally, normally-aspirated spark-ignition (SI) gasoline engines produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric. However, in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine. Let's take a closer look. As the air-fuel mixture is ignited by the spark plug, a flame front propagates from the spark plug. The now-burning mixture raises the cylinder pressure and temperature, peaking at some point in the combustion process. The turbocharger increases the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of knock. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock. This is why it is imperative to run richer AFR on a boosted engine at full load. Doing so will reduce the likelihood of knock, and will also keep temperatures under control. There are actually three ways to reduce the probability of knock at full load on a turbocharged engine: reduce boost, adjust the AFR to richer mixture, and retard ignition timing. These three parameters need to be optimized together to yield the highest reliable power. Can be all due to retarded timing No, Fix this first before this

I think he is trying to be helpful by stopping you from blowing up your engine.

What the

Because then you might muck around with something else, make it a bit lean and BANG... For this critical stuff you are paying a workshop for labour that includes knowledge, wisdom, and a system of doing things properly. One of your mistakes might cost you your engine, a good workshop won't make that mistake.

Sigh. :mellow::mellow:

Wheel diameter and tyre profile has a lot to do with it to... My 2 cents

So you want to fix the problem without doing what you really need to do.. that is log data... Interesting