XGTRX

If you are running semi then 5 to 8k is fine. If u drive I hard most of the time then 5 rather than 8

Ha ha my bad. Missed that part.

sorry not quite clear. so the whole cam trigger assembly is aluminium? If so how is it going to trigger the hall effect pickup?

What material are u making these out of

I think I bought it for $150 from rhdjapan 6 months ago so how does $90 sound. Let me know or make an offer.

nice!! subscribed

I have one of these if you are interested. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Apexi/Exhaust/Exhaust_Silencers/ATS/7030

Sold

Nope makes no difference the only thing to check is the signal voltage, you just have to make sure you use the correct signal wire off the cas if you want to use the factory loom and the other wire off the cas for your tdc cam trigger. That's it and done

I regards to the 12 trigger wheel I was involved with some bench testing of a hall effect 24 tooth wheel as opposed to a 24 tooth using the stock cas optical sensor and concluded that the optical sensor was the issue rather than the 24 tooth resolution. We spun it up to 6000 rpm on a drill and rev synch captured on a motec, halech and microtech and notice a significantly cleaner signal and square waveform rather than the pyramiding pattern that we saw on the optical sensor. There were also no changes in edge order(skipping triggers). Using a 12 trigger would be no issue based on the observations as the 6000 rpm on the 24 wheel would he equivalent to spinning a 12 trigger wheel at 12000 rpm. Hope this helps.

Have you considered a 12 tooth trigger. There would be advantages going to a higher resolution.

No doesn't top ultimate team but the game play is so much better, much more enjoyable to play, forces you to set up plays rather than long ball everything, and those stupid defenders and goal keepers are non existent. Thank god for that

Got pro evo soccer 2015 Best soccer game I have ever played. Played fifa for 2 months and was bloody hopeless. Pro evo has great game play and team set up options. Online is not too bad either.

Price and pics would be nice

http://www.newaywheelrepairs.com.au/ 11 Beatrice Avenue, Heidelberg West VIC 3081 (03) 9457 3141 Know a few guys that used them. They were happy

What ecu

Yep, me and all the many others with the same issues. It is still a great ecu but there are issues that's all, new customers need to be aware that they exists as mentioned above.

They dont want to know about it, its not a problem with the haltech, put a crank trigger setup, then they dont return your calls, Like any business in australia, Oh for those of you that are dissing alfas shame on you..... go and drive a gtv or an alfetta. when it all works the engine is sweet and the gearbox is the best I have ever used. And the exhaust note is brilliant. and all you do is smile from the time you see it to get in to the time you look back at it when you park it..... :yes: :D

The GTVs are beautiful looking cars. I feel your alfa pain though, I am restoring an alfa 33 at the moment with my son. Sharing the daily duties with the gtr, electrics are hopeless, build quality is rubbish and so on, but just when you think you have had enough they pull you back in and always put a smile on your face. Something about alfas....cant explain it. If you have a pic post it up would love to see it.

Couldn't have said it better myself... awesome post. What alfa did you have?

Ha ha. Always used it since an old school panel beater that fixed my HJ back in 86 who had all these old valiants, I said to him about the rust problems they have and he said to me in broken English, ' where there is oil there is never any rust, fish oil everything' ha ha. He used to paint the chassis in engine oil and fish oil everything else. I have done it myself ever since with great success.

The answer to your question is yes it is worth while. Thin enough to get in between all your seals and seams and the stuff sold today doesn't smell. Spray it in you engine bay, chassis, door frames then wait 2 hours and look for drips to clean up. It cures to a flexible barrier. Reapply it every year or 2. Where there is oil there is no rust. That's why hotrodders and people that to classic restos use it all the time. They use engine oil too... ha ha. sometimes the old way is the best because it's proven to work and fish oil has been doing its job since the early 1900s to present day to prevent rust on ships.

Thats right. Actually what happens is the edges of the home triggers and the cam position triggers cross over as the engine revs rise and fall, Therefore you get spark and fuel firing at the wrong time. Either you go lean or rich. The variance can change from day to day too. As what happened with my mates pretty much stock vl with a 35/40, one week it was fine the next thing it retarded by 15 degrees. at the time he was logging and we saw the events change in the rev sync log.Basically the home signal was changing its position by 6-7 cam position pulses. Interestingly he got an old motec from a mate that was obviously a slower ecu and it worked with no issue even close to what he was experiencing except for a few acceptable variations up top.

Just do your homework before u make the investment. Being through it all myself and knowing of many others with the same issues, and hearing the same thing across the world, if I had my time again I would have kept the pfc. No point having all the bells and whistles if the the basic stuff like air, fuel and spark can't be managed properly and consistently, especially if they market something as a plug n play ecu and then recommend a crank trigger to solve the issues.

Not at all, it's just there is a problem that exists with all modern ecus and the rb cas. So as a result they are not plug n play as marketed, where the pfc is. So the buyer needs to be aware of the issues and potentially need to invest in a crank trigger. That's all