XGTRX

I must be a retard then coz I would consider buying it if I could afford it. Epic car. Just epic.

Sugar cane product + water + heat = toffee.

Wow wow and wow, a white unicorn amongst stallions. So beautiful. Good luck with the sale...:-)

Read through all that, thanks for posting the link. As I said about the general issue of 5 and 6 in my previous post that if you are tuning at 11.5 afr then even a 5% variance will still keep your afrs at 5 and 6 safe (12.1 or so). As long as as you stagger your higher flowing injectors from back to front then you should be fine. As GTSBoy said you really need to make sure you are not dumping fuel in when it's not needed or you will have other issues to deal with. Do you really need to do it? That's the question I would be asking.

Umm yeah basically what I was saying.... You just said it a whole lot better... Out of interest how lean does cylinder 5 and 6 get with a standard plenum.

also RHD Japan are very good. I bought a lot of little bits and pieces, real cheap. and they usually have diagrams of where the parts go. found it useful anyway

Depends on what afr you are running at above 50% max boost. If you are on the conservative (richer) side, then wouldn't worry about it as 0.4 leaner or so wont make a huge difference, But if you are running closer to mid 12s afr then it may be worth considering.

the more i look at this car the more i like it.......... what is happening to me!

Maybe.... I suppose it depends on the application. Obviously Mines thought it's was essential for their setup for Tsukuba, so there must be some advantage there don't you think? Did not bad at willow springs either. I think Mine's did the modification for a reason and I am sure they did enough r&d to support their decision based on the r33 experience. The 34 was only one sec faster and you can see the 33 labouring on a few of the corner exits. I am sure with shorter gearing the 33 would have been faster. Anyway if you want to see the difference gearing makes, just have the 33 and 34 videos running side by side. Not saying it's better just different and maybe be an advantage in the correct application.

Or possibly change gears less depending on your situation as you can afford to hold a higher gear instead of gearing down..... how long is a piece of string... it just changes the characteristic of the car.... some advantages and some trade offs.....

Performance is delivered differently. Much better response. As described in the rest of the vid. So yes, shortening diff ratios will be a good mod to do if your goal is a car centred around response.

Put some GT12s on it while your at it.

Nah I won't put the gears in or my -5 26 setup will be as responsive as a -9 or 26/30 setup, way too responsive. I need lag to keep me happy.

Nah sorry mate the theory is correct and I have also seen it first hand. And on the road they are a lot different. Nothing to do with dyno plot either it's just used to illustrate torque to wheel speed difference. Rate of acceleration is night and day when comparing to standard gears. Obviously your experience is exactly the opposite to what many others have experienced, don't know how though.

Because the torque at the wheels is higher at a particular rev point. So even though the engine characteristics have not changed directly the torque at the wheels have so therefore you will come on boost at a lower speed. As a result on a dyno you will see the torque curve plotted against wheel speed shifted to the left and even though the torque against rpm will be similar, it will be seen to ramp quicker against time because of the torque multiplication factor of the diff. But the torque against wheel speed and rate of acceleration is where it is at and that's what matters really.

Spreadsheet is here

This is a good little basic article to explain the effects of diff gearing. From WALLACE RACING. http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm Rear End Gear Selection As most Pontiac fans realize, changing rear gear ratios can yield a tremendous performance increase. Three questions sometimes arise when considering a change in rear end ratio: How will the change affect top speed?, How will the change affect fuel economy?, and How will the change affect exhaust emissions? A change in rear gear ratio can be one of the most satisfying modifications you can make on your Pontiac, and it can be one of the most cost effective. For instance, changing from a 2.41:1 ratio to a 3.73:1 ratio will provide a rear wheel torque increase of 55%. Figure I below is a chart of rear wheel torque increases; to find the torque increase for a proposed gear ratio change, find your present ratio in the left column and move across to the column that is headed by the proposed ratio, the percentage shown is the torque increase (negative percentages are torque decreases). Providing you can get it to the ground (have sufficient traction) the 55% torque increase should substantially improve your quarter mile E.T. and push you back in the seat a lot harder! On the street,the drivability and responsiveness will be greatly improved. There are some interesting points to ponder in a rear gear change. For instance, a 1978 Firebird with -the standard 400 (non T/A 6.6) engine originally equipped with 2.41:1 gears. With this combination the torque peak occurs at about 52 mph and the horsepower peak occurs at about 118 mph. The same gear with 3.73:1 gears reaches the torque peak at about 34 mph and the horsepower peaks at about 76 mph. The 3.73 gears convert this car from a "Freeway Cruiser" into a "Surface Street Stomper" that would have tremendous response at around town speeds and would probably get the best fuel economy at city speeds of 30-40 mph. Now, consider a 1978 Firebird with the T/A 6.6 engine. When using 2.41:1 rear gears the torque occurs at about 92 mph and the horsepower peak occurs at about 131 mph - With 3.73:1 gears, T/A 6.6 car reaches the torque peak at about 59 mph and the horsepower peaks at about 85 mph The 3.73:1 gears convert the T/A 6.6 car from a "Freeway Flyer" into a good highway or multipurpose car. On both examples above the cars and gears considered were identical, the only difference was the engine, yet the peaks and most practical uses for each car varied greatly. The point of these examples is that a gear ratio that is perfect for one car could be a disaster in another car aiming for a similar performance goal, so you must consider the engine combination carefully when choosing the rear gear ratio. Another point that became obvious in the first example, is that the non-T/A 6.6 400 is woefully undercammed for high performance use. As you can see from the road horsepower graph (figure 2) below, the maximum vehicle speed is influenced by the rear gear ratio. The graph shows increasing horsepower and torque on the vertical axis and increasing vehicle speed on the horizontal axis. NOTE: All curves shown in this article are arbitrary but representative of actual relationships. You see five curves on the graph, two torque at rear wheel curves (for 2.41:1 and 3.73:1 ratios), two horsepower at rear wheel curves (for 2.41:1 and 3.73:1 ratios), and one horsepower required to maintain road speed curve. The two rear wheel torque curves show that increasing the gear ratio both causes the torque peak to occur at a lower road speed and increases the peak torque value. This is the primary explanation for the performance increase. The two rear wheel horsepower curves show that increasing the gear ratio causes the horsepower peak to occur at a lower road speed but the peak horsepower value is the same. The single "horsepower required" curve indicates the amount of horsepower required to maintain vehicle speed. The respective maximum vehicle speeds are indicated where the rear wheel horsepower curves intersect the "horsepower required" curve. Taken as a whole, the graph shows that a torque increase of 55% can be had while reducing maximum vehicle speed by only 8 mph,only a 6 % loss.

Nice interior

Sad to hear mate. Just a few things I would suggest before doing anything extreme. Have you checked the your cat isn't blocked. Another is while your exhaust is dropped switch the car on and see if anything is different, like if it smokes and what color it is and give it a bit of a rev and see what happens. Just an idea.

Not confusing at all really. I would say you have diagnosed the issue yourself. Do the diy fix on the ICV and I think there is a high probability the issue will be solved.

Changing back to a standard airbox is not going to improve response. Waste of money if you had to buy one.

wish they weren't staggered..... Free bump.... Nice rims, good luck with the sale

Don't worry about it, people don't listen, people would rather spend $380 than follow a diy that would take them 30 minutes and $30 on an iron and solder. It's such an easy fix for such a common problem. I just don't understand.

You can always put a stock 3l in it and see if that is satisfactory for you.

Solder the joints it takes 30 minutes