XGTRX

Brand: NISMO Product: Super Coppermix Single Plate Clutch High Power Spec SR RB SPECIFICATIONS: Kit Contents: - Flywheel bolts - Release bearing (OEM) - Sticker - One COPPERMIX clutch disc - Aluminum clutch cover - Lightweight flywheel - Aluminum center plate Damper: No Disc Outer Diameter: 240mm Allowable torque Nm (kgfm): - Kinetic friction: 530 (54) - Static friction: 794 (81) Allowable output kW (ps): 309 (420) Clutch cover: - Pressure N (kgf): 9807 (1000) - Type: Push Brand: NISMO Product: Super Coppermix Twin Plate Clutch R34 BNR32 BCNR33 SPECIFICATIONS: Kit Contents: - Flywheel bolts - Release bearing (OEM) - Sticker - Two COPPERMIX clutch discs - Aluminum clutch cover - Lightweight flywheel - Aluminum center plate Damper: Spring Disc Outer Diameter: 225mm Allowable torque Nm (kgfm): - Kinetic friction: 785 (80) - Static friction: 1334 (136) Allowable output kW (ps): 471 (640) Clutch cover: - Pressure N (kgf): 9316 (950) - Type: Pull Weight: - Super Coppermix: 16.54 - OEM: 18.62 Brand: NISMO Product: Super Coppermix Twin Plate Competition Model Clutch R32 R33 SPECIFICATIONS: Kit Contents: - Flywheel bolts - Release bearing (OEM) - Sticker - Two COPPERMIX clutch discs - Aluminum clutch cover - Lightweight flywheel - Aluminum center plate Damper: Spring Disc Outer Diameter: 225mm Allowable torque N- m (kgfm): - Kinetic friction: 912 (93) - Static friction: 1540 (157) Allowable output kW (ps): 544 (740) Clutch cover: - Pressure N (kgf): 10787 (1100) - Type: Push Weight: - Super Coppermix: 16.76 - OEM: 18.54

http://www.examiner.com.au/story/1453193/manions-nissan-skyline-in-a-targa-class-of-its-own/ "We built the car for about $40,000 over 18 months and it hasn't cost a lot since - the motor and gearbox are only worth about 500 bucks each," Manion said. 'That resulted in the 23-year-old Nissan clocking the third-fastest time of the entire Targa field over the final four stages and finishing the Tarraleah stage just two seconds slower than outright winner Jason White's Lamborghini.' RESULTS 2014 RDA Brakes Early Modern 1. Ben Manion/Julie Winton-Monet, 1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-t 2. Peter Nunn/Keith Johnstone, 1990 Porsche 944 S2, +58s 3. Richard Perini/Chris Perini, 2000 Porsche 911 GT3, +3min 27s 4. Stephen Thatcher/Kelly Handley, Nissan ATTKD Select R SP, +3min 42s 5. Liam Howarth/Larry Howarth, 1995 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec, +4min 35s Got to laugh

Sounds perfect.

Out of interest Roy, how do you go with the other cars on the track.A lot of people lose sight of the fact that everything you have mentioned is so true, however relative to other cars and engines of various capacities, how does your total package go and what are the things people should do to improve their RB20 skylines?

Does the noise continue after the engine is turned off

Love it Roy.

Didn't they sell it back to the same bloke they bought it from, or is that another episode?

Ha ha love this show. Ed is a legend. That snake skin crap ha ha even the guy wrapping it nearly vomited, funny episode. some great cars on there though.

I think u are a bit delusional Lethal26. You got sound advice and yes the previous owners were dickheads and didn't look after the cooling system, all too common. You need to calm your farm as no one was insulting you. Also with that in mind, have you done all the other fluids, diff, gearbox, brakes fluid etc, because if not I would be changing all of it seeing the coolant was that bad. Just a bit of advice that's all, good luck.

Don't think he is being a dickhead as he is stating why the seal or heat exchanger corrodes. You say you had to flush the coolant a few times and the radiator was stuffed so its fair to say coolant maintenance wasn't performed for some time before you purchased it. So if comp is good I would be looking at what GTSBOY suggests, good luck.

Non adjustable then?

Have you got any specs on the coilovers. Can you go into more detail?

Yeah pretty likely its a head gasket. Just do a compression test to confirm it, but its likely a gasket failure between the oil and water gallery. Had the same thing happen. How does it start and idle cold?

Incorrect

Yeah it's nice when you see your AFRs spiking to 15-16 when it decides to advance the timing 4 degrees more than it should. I suppose that's why its so important to have AFR feedback on a Haltec, to hide all its stuff ups.

Did it consistently for me, it just advanced my timing when ever it wanted.

Ha ha

PFC purchase, install and tune was on par with the cost of selling my M84 with the loom and accessories that I didn't need anymore.And no more T T T T Timing jitter. If I wanted to keep the haltec or M84 I would have spent another 2k for a crank trigger. So massive saving and car runs the best it ever has. And have my $350 Innovate SCG1 looking after boost and AFRs which cuts boost if I go lean, and has a 5V output to supply signal to FC edit software if I want to log it all. Can't see a problem at all TBH

$700 for a second hand D-Jetro with all accessories.... Pretty good value I recon.

Exactly. With the power he is quoting he should be up around 140mph, even with a crap run he should be trapping 135+ regardless of his ET. Even when running mine I got my best MPHs when I eased off the line with a 2.8ish 60 footers. A GoPro and time slip is all he needs to prove any of his out of the ordinary claims..... 700 whp from -5s on a 26, pffft, rubbish!

Its a known issue that they have difficulty reading the cas signal which is hit and miss, just call haltec or Motec and they will clarify your error. Where is a nistune or PFC half arsed? You just don't get the wank factor bells and whistles that you really don't need in a street car if the tuner knows what he is doing.The only real choice to make is to stick with the AFM or go MAP. Apart from that Nistune or PFC will manage a 400kw+ car easily and perfectly.

Had a Haltec then a Motec M84 and went back to a PFC D-jetro. The car has been running faultless ever since, no more timing issues and its a real plug in ecu. Unless going a crank trigger I would stick with Nistune or PFC. They just work.

I forget now but I posted it up in some thread here about 1 year ago. From memory it was on par with every other -5 98 RON setup, nothing out of the ordinary, dyno was about 350awkw and it ran about 125mph (from memory) with a slipping clutch and stuffed transfer case. So yes, it back up my dyno figure there or there abouts. I haven't had my TO4Z setup stretched to a full tune yet due to little niggly issues, so I haven't run it down the strip but I have played with a few of my mates VLTs and BarraTs pushing 130+ mph and my little 26 was more than capable up until my cooler pipes blow off. Anyway, the thing is I am old school so apart from a dyno graph being useful to the tuner for tuning purposes, to me I don't give a fk because mph is where its at. To me, when a dyno sheet is used to brag about numbers it is just wank factor, unless it is used to compare a previous setup for the purpose of analysing and discussing mods, but even that is less reliable than comparing before and after mph to measure engine power output. There is a thread somewhere that people talk about setups and ETs and mph. At the end of the day if you have the power you say you have, post up your slip and if the mph backs it up I will applaud you and shut the fk up myself.

Its all about the headlights man.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1110311534Pop up headlights for you, I am sure I can negotiate 7k for it.