BuuBox

It's a nice earner for the unethical. The auction sheet shows that R32 has corrosion, accident damage, lots of changed parts - the bad news goes on and on. It's barely good enough to be a half cut.

"Honest" was the wrong word, but it looks like an acceptable car (e.g. not R grade and has a clean interior). You'd consider buying it at an appropriate price. Not all that surprised at the R32 auction sheet. Can you see how much it sold for?

At least it looks like a relatively honest car from the auction sheet, just significantly overpriced given the kilometres. Look at this example: "Unmolested" and "mint" aren't words that immediately spring to mind when viewing the video...

Just ordered one of your checks JOC. Fingers crossed you can search that far back (I think I've asked you previously about searching for a car sold in 2007). Just out of interest, why are you on eBay UK?

The fact that the Nissan dealer is directly involves makes it even more likely that they just fixed the transmission in my eyes. It gives them access to the required parts at a much reduced cost with effectively free labour, or they could even have put it through as a "goodwill" warranty claim... If they rebuilt or put a new 'box in, the "launch control not used" claim is defensible. The response by the dealer isn't exactly a surprise either. What are they going to say... "We fixed the gearbox for a few grand and made $40k on your trade-in". Hopefully the above is true for the sake of the new owner. Out of interest, what did you trade for? An FPV GT?

I noticed the ad was from six months ago. Do you have proof the Ford dealer didn't just get the transmission repaired? After all this is why they would have accepted the car as a trade in (i.e. to repair and sell). As this forum shows, there are a number of workshops around the country that can repair R35 GTR gearboxes for substantially less than $47,000. JustJap have new replacements for $18,999. On what basis?

Agree to start with basic checks on the chassis first. No point doing everything else first and then find out the chassis isn't viable. It's best to break it down into manageable steps - both in terms of finances and time - so you don't give up (like most people do).

Good to hear. The S15 is pretty much bullet proof, especially being a ADM (and avoiding Japanese roads in winter). A decent compromise. If I had to drive my R32 daily, it'd send me nuts... and probably broke. Still for sale 10 months on which is a bit of a worry.

A common problem is a small air leak on the inlet manifold. A pain to replace the gasket on, and if your car has been tuned with the leak, you'll have to get it re-tuned.

MCM lost me when they started spruiking Edward Lees.

I was just going to suggest a leak down test. 140psi compression test result isn't brilliant, especially if that was after cranking for a while. Do you have a catch can fitted? Valve stem seals?

Glad to hear. This sort of blatant rubbish has to stop at some point.

The standard R32 GTR tyre is 225/50/16.

Good to see your build is progressing. It's a bit of a shame that you didn't end up trying a 1.5mm top ring. The results would have been interesting. I can't help but think there's a reason Nissan specified a 1.5mm top ring for the factory engine.

130 psi oil pressure on a cold idle sounds very high to me. Depends on the oil pump, pressure relief valve, ambient temperature and oil viscosity though. Filtration can be at the expense of flow.

It's great to see it was actually a misunderstanding, and to see the other cars on the Xtreme Motorsports lot are legitimate. Kudos to Joe for clearing it up, and running a trustworthy business. My earlier posts were rather cynical to say the least, but it's disheartening to see so many examples of odometer tampering especially on R grade vehicles. It decreases the value of our imports, puts the SEVS import scheme into a negative light due to rorting, and puts poor quality vehicles on Australian roads.

Did you have the heater on when you were bleeding the system? Did you put the thermostat in with the bleed jiggle pin the correct way up? Did you replace the radiator cap? The stock thermostat is 76.5 degrees so you've put a hotter one in. I would recommend using a genuine Nissan thermostat.

So Joe from Xtreme Motorsports tried to get this thread locked or deleted, rather than explaining the "misunderstanding"? Interesting. I noticed that this thread is on page one of a Google search for Xtreme Motorsports.

At some point this needs to stop being nothing more than a bunch of forum threads, and move to the prosecution of those who routinely and systematically engage in this fraudulent activity. It's even more ridiculous when it stops being a odometer haircut on an otherwise reasonable car, and moves to accident grade examples with forged service histories and dereg certificates. Anyway, this looks like another rubbish accident grade example tarted up and flogged off as "very clean". Hopefully Joe from Xtreme Motorsports can come and clear up what must be just a misunderstanding...

You better call Ford and let them know they're wrong then. http://www.ford.com.au/commercial/new-falcon-ute/specifications/spec-options

The auto XR6 Turbo has a towing capacity of 2300kg. The mere thought of an 8 year old diesel X5 is enough to give me nightmares...

The cold weather makes the car lethargic on a cold start not the oil - particularly when you're comparing similar grades. There may be a difference if someone snuck in some 40W70...

Interesting. If this thread is correct, they've tarted up a $5000 accident grade example. Nice of them not to wind back the auction kilometres though I suppose... dodgyimports, how far can you look back? My car was imported a few years ago. It would be interesting to see the history.

It's probably not a bad car, but it sure doesn't look like an "immaculate" 53,000km example from the pictures...

I noticed the Autobarn catalog with $40 Gulf Western 5W40, but they never seem to have any Gulf Western in stock (apart from the price leader 20W50). Oil will play no part in cold starting issues.