BuuBox

I never worked this out for sure, but what's the first few numbers of the engine number? Helps work out if it's *not* the original engine, e.g. RB26-042xxx would be from a 1994 according to: http://www.webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47:engine-number-register&catid=42:engine-number-registers&Itemid=2

The Chinese made Ryco filters seem to be better quality than those sourced from other countries: http://www.repcotrade.com.au/go/news/important-quality-message-from-ryco They haven't been made here for years. I personally use a K&N oil filter (made in the USA). If the anti- drainback valve in the filter isn't particlularily effective (or completely missing, as is the case in cheap generic filters), oil will have to first flow through the filter before it gets to the engine. This momentary lack of oil isn't good, and can explain cold start noise.

My cooling system is 100% stock R32 GTR so it still has the oil/coolant heat exchanger. Therefore the oil gets up to temperature quite quickly - around 10 minutes with light throttle (depending on the ambient temperature). Oil pressure is obviously very high on a cold start but settles down within a few minutes. Amongst others, I tried a 10W40 (noisy on a cold start, lowish oil pressure) as well as a 10W60 (noisy on a cold start, highish oil pressure). The 15W50 seemed to be happy medium with little cold start noise (note I only drive the car on some weekends so the car can sit unused for a while) and oil pressure readings through the rev range that were only slightly on the high side of the factory specifications. Oil temperature is fairly stable at just above the 90 degree mark, although it can get up to 100 degrees under certain conditions. Note it is not an appropriate viscosity oil if you jump in the car and give it wide throttle openings straight away! Interesting, they probably build engines with that viscosity oil in mind. I would run a 15W40 if I could get a quality easy to find oil in that grade. I've just sent off oil from the last oil change to be analysed. I'll post the results when I get them if you're interested.

One of the issues of making blanket recommendations is that every engine will be different. A tighter engine will run happily on ‘thinner’ oil such as a 0W30, but if you’ve got an engine with loose clearances then it will reduce bearing life. The engine failure thread is littered with examples of RB engines spinning bearings. This is not scientific of course, but most examples seem to be running oil on the thinner side of the spectrum. Therefore the best oil for the engine in question depends entirely on the engine in question. Where build specs or kilometres are unknown, it is (at least in my opinion) better to go with a ‘thicker’ oil. One also has to factor in drain intervals, ambient temperatures the car experiences, and driving conditions. Those in Western Australia will require a different oil to those in Tasmania. Those driving predominately long stints on the freeway will require a different oil to those with a short run in traffic to work. 10W40 oils are a happy medium but aren’t appropriate for long drain intervals due to the large viscosity range. Perfect for the 5,000km drain intervals that most Skyline owners run though. On top of this, there are other aspects to consider such as additives missing from newer oils that may be necessary for the long term reliability of older engines (e.g. zinc and phosphorus). In my case, based on location, driving conditions and ambient temperatures experienced when I drive the car, as well as the (apparent) build spec of my (Japanese built) engine, I find Nulon 15W50 is the most appropriate after some trial and error. An oil analysis would help confirm this beyond the oil pressure and oil temperature gauges (and listening to how the engine sounds) though.

It sure sounds like that. Edit: didn't realise I was responding to a post from 2 years ago...

I find swearing at it for a few minutes helps. +1 for not doing it crazy tight in the first place.

Might be worth getting a manual radiator, and putting in an external auto trans cooler. Removes a possible point of failure. There seems to be a few on eBay with the inbuilt auto trans cooler: http://www.ebay.com....R-/310427669186

Does it look like this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268134-r33-gtst-active-lsd-information/

How much fuel in the tank? Could be fuel pump related.

Paid a bit over $16k for a fairly clean R32 GTR about 9 months ago. Might have been a bit too much, but it's a 1994, and I haven't really had any major issues... which is better than the "bought a GTR two weeks ago and just spun a main bearing" horror stories.

If you ever hit something, you may regret removing the airbag...

Looks tough with the R34 rims. Thanks. I'm a fan of the stock look. I thought Wheels magazine coined the "Godzilla" title in the July 1989 edition? When did they start racing in the ATCC?

Personally I'd take it back and get at least Syn X 3000. If you're in a pickle, it'll be fine, but I wouldn't use it for an extended period. It'll be better than unknown old oil.

Nismo cap increases the cooling system pressure from 12 psi to 19 psi. Great way to test for leaks...

After a long drive a few months ago, one very dirty R32... Nice scenery though.

The engine won't stall just because of low oil pressure.

The oil at 70 degrees seems a little cold. Mine is stable around the 90 degree mark after a thermostat change (the old one was stuck open).

Picked up some of the Syn X 3000 for the daily, worth a go for $19, but not brave enough to put it in the Skyline...

Just compared the sensor output from a R32 Skyline and a U13 Bluebird (Altima) with climate control and they're the same. I suspect the Pathfinder would probably also be the same.

Unless I'm missing something, none of those examples relate to bearing failure that could be attributed to the oil.

Thanks for the tip. I'll look into the Yellow Jackets (although trying the cheap ones is tempting).

Anyone tried these coil packs: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Performance-Coil-Packs-RB20-RB25-RB26-R32-R33-GTR-/110462393656 Chasing an intermittent miss and wouldn't mind ruling out the coil packs but $600 on the Spitfire ones seems like overkill (fairly stock R32 GT-R).

Any cracks in the clutch fan? Where you located? Cheers.

This might be alright: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-core-aluminum-radiator-shroud-fan-skyline-R32-/290719928455 I had the same issue, but ended up getting new tanks put on the old radiator as the rest of it was in good condition and I didn't want to change the fan. Was relatively expensive at around the $140 mark.

There are a few cars that run the fuel pump off the oil pressure light (so it won't start unless it's already got some oil pressure). Obviously would have to rig something up (or take the fuel pump fuse out... ). KnightRiderR33, what oil filter are you using?