BuuBox

It could be as easy as an accessory belt idler or accessory bearing, or as potentially sinister as a timing belt idler or even a worn harmonic balancer. Bit hard to tell with just a video though. They aren't legit, unless you mean 255,000kms.

Unfortunately you can buy mobile network signal blockers online cheaply, so the thieves don't even have to be particularly sophisticated.

A new Clubsport R8 isn't $100k. They're closer to $60k. The new GTS is said to be around that mark, but that is fairly consistent with GTS pricing over the years (the VT II GTS was $95k more than 10 years ago).

I've attached a screen shot of the R32 RB26DETT manual which states that 1.5 kg/cm² (about 21 psi) at idle on a warm engine is spot on. 4 kg/cm² is nearly 60 psi which is very high for a warm engine at idle (might be a gauge or sender issue).

Top it up with water. Demineralised if you're fussy, but anything will be better than nothing. Have you seriously not changed the oil in a turbocharged Nissan engine for 20,000kms?

It's only $9 per 10,000km... Would you mind posting a picture of the GMB impeller when you get the pump? It's very difficult to find a picture of one online and it'd be interesting to compare between the GMB and the genuine Nissan.

Generic water pumps generally make great blenders. No idea how good or bad the GMB one in question is though. What about this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220472911339 Only $90~ more (including shipping) for a proper R33 GTST kit with a genuine water pump and is from an Australian seller that sponsors SAU.

Unless you track the car, I'd only be looking at eliminator kits if you have an issue with the HICAS system.

It's difficult to test the coil packs as they may test alright on a multimeter but still fail under running conditions. That said, it sounds more like a timing issue to me.

I bought a Repco branded one and haven't had any troubles. Not sure the part number, the Repco salesperson found it in their fitment guide. Edit: RC85-90 by the looks of things. http://issuu.com/repco/docs/radiator_quick_reference_guide

Impressive detective work. The story makes more sense now. The $13,500 "paint job" would be as a result of the body damage on the drivers side and rust on the passenger side (and probably elsewhere). The engine was cactus so a rebuild would have been in order. Add all the other bits and pieces and it's doubtful the owner would be making money despite the $10,000 initial cost. The GTR money pit strikes again...

Given the fairly high kilometres (that could be even higher if it's a typical import) and the cost of rebuilding a RB26DETT, I would start with a 10W40 and go from there.

$37k for a non-original R32? That's a stretch. Should have taken the $32,000 especially given you've admitted you didn't pay much for it. You'll struggle to sell it on here if you keep posting these threads just asking to be flamed. Also: "First to see will buy"?

GST and LCT applies to locally manufactured vehicles. The import tariff is only 5% - hardly make or break, even on expensive cars.

The current import tariff is only 5%. GST has more of an impact on new car prices. GMH received $235m in return for $1b of investment (ensuring production until 2022). The demise of the Commodore and Falcon may be inevitable, but given the above and the fact that Toyota just opened an engine plant a month ago (one of two that can make the hybrid engine), tales of the demise of automotive manufacturing all together are a little premature. Ford may be another story, although it's at least 3 years away (their strong engineering base helps). The X Series Falcons were hugely successful. The XF sold 100,000 a year.

This is interesting: http://www.geocities.jp/r33gtruser/usedgtr.html A Japanese owner buying a R32 GT-R new and discussing durability. He put 120,000kms on the car in 4 years...

I'd stick to genuine Nissan. As suggested: http://www.kudosmoto...5det-p-558.html The generic waterpumps I've seen on eBay look like they'd make great blenders.

Blowby is one of the reasons oil needs to contain detergents to 'clean' the engine. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=258648 If ring seal was perfect and combustion was complete, oil would last far longer.

Is it sitting flat? I found even a relatively small incline can throw out the reading by a fair bit.

+1 for the XR6 (or SV6). Cheap, fast in a straight line, comfortable for road trips, and it won't attract as much unwanted attention. Safer too, and it'll help prepare you for the fuel bill of a turbo when you're off your P's. The big back seat could come in handy too... If you could find one with a decent injected LPG system, that would be even better.

I'm sure there is a Skyline owner somewhere ranting about a lunatic in an i30 that didn't keep left, on the Hume Hwy of all roads. Perhaps he even called the local police stating that said i30 created an unnecessarily dangerous situation whilst breaking the law. Being stuck beside a truck is the last place you want to be...

A U13 Bluebird SSS ATTESA isn't a bad sleeper.

Great to see you're restoring the car back to its former glory.

Any more details on the engine build? How did it fail? Cheers.

My used oil analysis came back. http://www.roktex.co...ublished=527460 Nulon 15W50 with around 6 months (April to October) and 3500 km on the oil. Looks alright to me. I'm surprised at the lack of fuel dilution given the generally rich tune. No idea where the titanium would have come from though... One of the downsides of having no idea what is inside the engine.