kingscorp

I removed the rear wing of my racecar because I didn't want to carry around the weight

Yeah close but no cigar! The underside of the wing is just as important as the top side. You need both high and low pressure for a wing to work. High pressure on the top and low pressure on the bottom, therfore you get a push/pull effect. A aircraft works on the opposite principle. This is why the wing needs to be high so you get air on both sides. Ash

I bought a Hoytech camera and the footage was very average and the sound is delayed. I sent it back they said it was fixed, but it was still the same. Hoytech ended up returning my money. I now use the POV1, I purchased mine form one of the guys I race against, here is his website http://mgr.net.au/ His name is Mark Greenham, he is very easy to deal with and has the same interest as us, going fast in racecars. Tell him Ashly Barnett gave you the contact details and he might do a bit better! For incar footage from my Series 6 RX7 see these links. You can click watch in high quality and the click full screen. The footage is actually beter than the you tube stuff as you have to compress it for YouTube. The best thing about this camera is how easy it is to download and edit on your computer. Hope this helps ashly

Wing is the last thing I will buy for my race car. I think the money can go into other areas that will give you more return in performance. Also will a wing make up for the loss of straight line speed. They dont take effect unitil very high speeds. It will have to be mounted very high for it to work on a Skyline. Undertray is a must, even rear undertray is good. Ash

The problem with Turbo cars in Improved Production is you have to make big torque to make them go. The turbo restrictors limit HP so the only way to make them perform is lots of boost down low in the revs. Unfortunatly this means you break gearboxes and diffs as torque is the driveline killer. The BSM GTR that won the IPRA nationals would break multiple PPG Gearboxes per year. (there are 2 BSM GTR's, one had OS Gearbox) I think a Rotary is your best Bang for Buck

Sounds like fun, I would love to have a 32 GTR Racecar! We run the A048 as well, not a bad tyre. Full weld in cage should be required if passing is involved, I have seen some too many nasty side impacts. Ash

I not pushing my own agenda and I cant see how it would benifit me? Speaking from experience, 8 years ago I sounded just like you, I wanted to do some Motokahans and sprints, ended up spending heaps of money building a car to do that, then again spent heaps more developing the car to do circuit racing. If I had built the car with the final destination in mind I would have saved big $$$. IP racing is grass roots door to door racing! Its as serious as you want to make it.

Sell the car and buy a race car ready to race! Unfortunatly I dont think a r33 GTST will be quick in any category unless you spend mega bucks and run sports car or sports sedans. In WA Sports Car and Sports Sedan are quicker around Babagallo than the current V8 supercars Not sure if I would call racing a GTR cheap, although you race one and I dont so you would know better than me (I Own a 32 V spec road car) Also not sure if a half cage is safe enough for proper circuit racing! Ash

Glad you got something from it. I dont want to scare people away from motoracing becasue of the expense but i thought you should know what it does actually cost. Having said that the fealing of racing and winning is brilliant. Racing hard and side by side with other people who share the same enthusiasm for motorsport is sensational and really is an adrenalin rush. I highly recommend the Silvia range. I have just built one (S14a) and it will be quick. You cant go wrong, it ticks all the boxes. Give it time and you will find the Silvia range will be very popular on a race circuit not only drifting. I recon you could built a reasonable s13 for about 20 - 25k including the cost of the car, it would mean doing alot yourself, which is what you wanted to do. You could use the Skyline brakes, set of Koni and King springs (Better and cheaper than any Jap coilover kit), china intercooler and manifolds, good rims from Ebay, Standard turbo with restrictor, Nice seat and harnesess $1000, basic guages. Or you could build a quick N/A sr20, that would be cool. Improved Production is not beyond what your capable of, the leval of driving thoughout the category ranges from Novice to up coming and current Australian stars. One thing you will find is that there will always someone you can race with. If you want to see some in car from some of my racing is click these links, you can watch in high quality and then in big screen. The footage is from a 500hp series 6 rx7 with PPG dog Box. I hope you enjoy http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=rvdxGSM09zo http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=InqAC6GtjGA http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=l5wpyEK48fI For more footage search YouTube for IPRAWA or SCRAWA Ash

I agree they are quick for what they are, there are some good drivers in those fields. 6 seconds per lap difference in cars that should be similar shows there is a range of driver talents. I thought you were takling about Commodore Cup cars not Saloon Cars. If you decide to race saloon cars consider that they are all very similar and have many restrictions, so any gain in performance will be small and will cost heaps. Then you might decide to make mods that do not fit within the rules and the car value will reduce. Sorry but racing a VN Commodore V6 would not excite me, but thats my opinon! Spend 10k on your 33 and it will be worth no more, or sell your 33 and spend 10k more than you sell it for and buy a good race car. You can pretty much say that a race car purchased for 20k would have cost upwards of 40k to build. The pic of the cars on the MY105 would n]be that early RX7, it would be that fastest of the lot and the cheapest to run bang for your buck Ash

Funny hey ready to race to the shops! Your right, at the moment there are heaps of great buys Ash

Alloy cage is good because it light, but its not good if you decide to put it on its roof or drive it into a wall! I have never see Commodore cup racing, we dont have them over here in WA, I have seen a Commodore Cup car with a gen 3 5.7ltr v8 in it, it made good hp on the dyno and was doing 67 second lap times around Barbagallo. To run at the front in Improved Production you need to be doing 64's at Barbagallo, the v8 Supercars are doing 58's The Improved Production National championship was help at Oran Park in Novemeber last year, there were 88 cars entered! The guys at the fronnt were lapping Oran Park in about 76 seconds. The V8 supercar grand finale in decemeber the v8 supercars were doing 72's from memory. On MY105 are you looking under circuit cars, then sedans? ash

Sounds like your on your way. Many race cars start out by doing speed events, then they evolve into full on race cars. Some advice!, if you think you will end up ciruit racing, pick a category you think you would like to race in and modify your car to fit with in these rules. example, if you do decide to race improved production, you will have to remove the light weight boot and put the original one on, just an example. Other wise you will spend heaps of $ modifying your car and another heap of $ modifying it again to fit within a category. Ash

Buy on already built for sure, unless you have a big budget to build the car you really want. That Commodore looks very good, however it only has a Alloy cage! This will reduce the value substantually. You can no linger build a race car with Alloy Cage, CAMS have banned them. Have you ever seen a alloy caged race car after a big crash ! If not, check out page 7 and 8 of this post on the IPRA forums http://www.techmasters.com.au/forum/viewto...ge&start=90 Ash

Im glad my post helped some people Yes you can run a R33. Yes you will have to have the 36mm restrictor The rules for 3J change depending on if your car is clasified as a Early Model or Late Model. Early Model is pre 1986 and Late Model is after 1986. Weight limits only apply to late model if you have changed your engine or block or head to another Nissan engine. For example if put a RB30 with RB26 head in your r33 GTST you would have to run a weight limit. Different matter for early model, you can use any engine from the car manufacturer with out any weight limits, example, you can put a sr20 into a Datsun 120Y and have no weight limit. However Early Model have rim/aero restrictions and have to deal with old suspension design. As you would run a RB25 there is no weight limit and you can run on 9" rims on the control Yokohama A048 tyres. Standard arms must remain, including caster rods etc. Nolothane can be used, including offset bushes to increase caster and so on. You can relocate suspension mounting points within a certain radius of the original mounts. There are no restrictions on Brakes , Struts, Gear Boxes (Must be H Pattern and same amount of gears as origial car), Diffs, Shafts, it is essentialy Production based racing, just improved. Not sure how competitve a R33 GTST would be! They are heavy and will struggle to move all that weight when HP/revs are restricted due to the Turbo Restrictor. R32 GTR would be a different story as you have 2 x 27mm restrictors (might be 22mm cant remember), a lighter car and intelligent 4wd system. The big issue with the restrictor is not HP, you will make a genuine 300 rwhp and with massive torque! The problem is the lack of RPM available, a 2.5ltr RB engine would not rev past 6000rpm, maximum power would be about 5000 rpm. The bigger the engine the more air it has to suck thru the restrictor at higher rpm, the smaller the engine the less air it has to suck thou so therfore you can rev more, no more HP, the same 300rwhp, but higher in the rev range. My SR20 DET with the 36mm restrictor makes 307 rwhp at 20 psi boost and revs to 7200 rpm, however max power is at 6900rpm. It makes big torque that pushes you hard in the seat. Torque wins races, not HP! One of my older race cars was a Mitsubishi Scorpion with a 4G63 EVO engine in it. It was stroked to 2.3 litres and made 300 rwhp, It was fast around a track. It took it to the drags to see what she would do. A very bad launch (circuit cars dont get off the line well) 2.3 sixty foot time and it ran a 12.8 at 114 mph and that was with the 36mm restrictor! So they ar not slow with the restrictor, you just cant rev them. I think a Silvia would be a good Improved Production car, they are light, mine is about 1120 kgs, great suspension, great aero, Big 9" rims, good engine and heaps of bolt on performance parts available. I believe you are better off buying a Improved Production car already built with a good racing history. Early RX7's are still the pick of the bunch, very very light, lots of HP with unlimited revs (N/A no restrictors), good aero, heaps of parts availabe as they are very popular race cars, very cheap to run and rebuild. Do a YouTube search for Improved Production racing or IPRA and have a look at some of the racing The racing is fast and they are a good bunch of blokes, you all have a beer at the end of race day! Ashly

I have built 2 race cars and owned a fer others. I am talking race cars not track day or time attack cars. 2 of them were road registered (Class B). Class B is designed for rally cars, however it is designed of any race car thar needs to be driven on the road for purpose of transport to and from events. The offical wording is: This vehicle is to be used for transportation to and from events, place of display or mechanical repair. My last race car had a full cage, side pipes, screamer pipes and no speedo, a full circuit car that I drove to the track and mechanical repair, this car blew flames out the side on overun whilst driving on the road!. I strongly suggest you buy a car that someone else has built and developed, becasue most of the money in building as race car is spent developing it to be fast. There is no such thing as a cheap race car, so dont fool yourself. If you do decide to buy a car, buy one that has been CAMS Log booked for popular category or has been built to the rules of a popular category, that way you are guarenteed that the car will always be worth good money. There is nothing worse than owning a car that can not be raced as the category it has been built for no longer exisits and therfore it is worthless! One of the most popular categories in Australia in Improved Production (CAMS know it as 3J) Have a look under MY105 for Improved Production 3J and see what is available. Remember vehicle weight, suspension, brakes, gearbox, cage, seat, log book are every but as imporatnt ads the motor if not more, so dont get carried away with turbo size or HP. If you do decide to build your own, here is an idea of what I just spent building my s14a Improved Production Car: Cage $6000 Brakes $6000 Suspension $6500 Brake Pads $1000 Engine $8000 Turbo, gate and Manifolds $4000 Rad and Intercooler $2000 Rims $2000 Tyres $2000 ECU $2000 Diff $1000 Gearbox (RB25) and adapter plate $2000 (need PPG dog box to win $12000) Clutch $1500 Paint $2000 Seat $1000 Harnesess $600 Helmet $1000 Suit etc $1000 Welding Fabriacting etc $2000 Braided hoses fittings $1000 Fuel pumps, Surge tanks $1000 CAMS Licence, Club fees $750 Entry fees $1800 Fuel $Heaps And the cost of the car $15000 (minus what ever you sell the parts that you removed for the car) I would have missed heaps of things, this list is just what I can think of whilst watching TV. Its a modest car, but by no means the best, you could easily tripple the total if you wanted the best gear! Now the expensive bit will be making it go fast by developing it. So you can see why I suggest buying a car already completed. Here are a few http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=10241 http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=10861 http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=10763 (I have seen this car, very very fast) http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=10679 http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=10557 (looks very good) http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=10482 http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=11179 Here is the Improved Production Forum (IPRA), there are cars for sales and so on http://www.techmasters.com.au/forum/ or do a search for IPRA and your state, e.g. WA is IPRAWA or http://www.iprawa.com Send me a message if you need any help! Ashly

Hi All Thanks for the info on this subject. I have had a few issues with the climate control. At first I couldn't control the temprature, I removed the control module and opened it up and re-soldered the wires. It still didn't work. Now I have performed the systems check as per this topic and the control module works! The only faults were the 25 (normal as it was in my workshop) and the code 30 came up when it was doing check number 3 The air conditioning compressor dosn't engage, it did work up until this morning and the air was very cold, however now it dosen't. I had an auto electrican fit and imobiliser this morning and I also asked him to check out the temp control module while he was there, I could hear the a/c compressor running OK at the time. Could he have knocked an a/c wire or something? I have had the dash apart trying to get the a/c to engage but it wont, I have tried 2 other climate control units, I have even tried crossing the relay in the fuse box in the engine bay. Is there a fuse or something I have missed? Please help

The R comps have a much stiffer side wall, hence they are crap for drag racing but great for cornering

Dont stretch the tyres! Get the right tyre for the rim. I will be using a 255 on my 9" rims on my Silvia racecar. So with 10's I would say you will need the 265's all round. My RX7 racecar runs 225's on a 7" rim and that works fine. You need some sidewall flex in the tyres, if you stretch the tyres you will find the tyres will tuck under and roll on the edges. The slip angles will also be reduced making hard to balance the car on the edge of grip and slide Ashly

Wanneroo (Barbagallo Raceway) Long Track 61.4 Short track 52.9 (From Memory) Those times are on 225/50/16 Bridgestone RE55's R Comp tyres

More dangerous driving to the track! Too many mods to list them all but here are a few. RX7 FD Series 6 13B Bridgeport Rotary(500 hp) T04 Turbo (19psi) 5 Speed PPG Dog Box Spool Diff AP, Harrop and Alcon brakes Bilstein Suspension + heaps of other things to make it go fast around the track ash

Hi All I am having fun playing around with editing and youtube, so I decided to do another video. Night Masters Feature Race from Novemebr 2008, its the 3 x 3 lap rolling start race. Look for the dodgy gear changes into 4th, I think we have a damaged dog ring making selecting 4th hard. (I think I damaged the dog ring at the Wanneroo 300) Anyway enjoy Ash

Hi All This is my first attempt at editing and hosting a video. I hope its not too bad. I will put some more up over the next few days Its race 1 of Street Car/Improved production from the Wanneroo 300 round Ash

Yes

Thanks, we had a good year. Dont worrie, I got my fair share dings from that same car and others. Not one straight panel on the car!