Badgaz

use the bolt holes at the back of the engine on the exhaust manifold side at the back....thats where we put one....i think that is usually for the engine bracket for lifting the motor out.

those are pintle caps. I'd get them cleaned and flow tested before using those....most places that service those will replace the pintle caps and filters as part of the service.

yes its running low 11's on WOT it was richer(9's) prior to tuning it as we'd previously tuned it with the hand controller (urgh) however it was running lower boost. 1bar. i now run it at 1.15 bar.

for sure...shows you how disconnected the exhaust note is from the engine sound.

do you have a programmable ECU? the stock r33 rb25det ecus are not programmable.

i should mention i had the missfire with both sets of plugs....both are gapped to 0.8mm

had a set of pfr6g-11 in before those. i've changed the dwell and also uploaded a tidied up version of my fuel and ignition map. took it for a drive and its going good....the misfire is intermittent and has been happening when practicing a few launches...getting her ready for a run down the strip.

i think what i'm really saying is ...when factory items break thats when you should improve/modify them.....in this case the factory ECU is broken because he wants to modify his car

doing this improperly could result in unlimited boost as your wastegate won't open if it doesn't get the pressure it needs to open.....so just be careful...

from memory the size of the actuator pipe is too large to run a bleed valve properly you need a restrictor i think.

could i use the GTR factory IGN Dwell vs RPM times? i'm looking to change this as i've got an intermittent missfire on WOT @ 17psi i've changed plugs to BKR7ES 0.8mm gap and i run split fires. GTR factory settings (internet sourced) rpm adjust 10000 107 8000 86 4000 46 2000 25 1000 15 480 10 my current settings 10000 101 8000 82 4000 43 2000 24 1000 14 480 9

as superben says...connect the wastegate actuator directly to the intake pipe where it would normally go....this will give you factory boost (without the solenoid) messing with boost can be bad...if you don't know what you are doing plumbing the boost controller in then i'd recommend getting someone to help you...like a performance car shop or tuner shop.

are you typing on a phone....? plum back bov is fine so long as the lines are all connected. when you turn the boost up that sound will get louder by the way.

i have to say driving around with the headphones on is a completely different experience! even though this probably couldn't input to an aftermarket ecu its better than nothing and could be sold to heaps of other applications e.g stockcars etc.

since when do you have to get it sorted before modding it? why not upgrade when a factory item fails?.....well... i'd put money on a failed coil...test those i reckon.....when you get those working correctly...the next thing you'll be limited by is the AFM....

I wonder if they forgot to switch the vtc back on our something like that....there could be a simple reason for the low power...I would ask the tuner again to tee check power again. get the turbo measured so you know what you are working with. as others have said a t2 flanged turbo with the right housings can make the power. do you have the dyno graph?

wanting some advice on mufflers here... currently i have 3 inch from the downpipe all the way back to a cobi resonator and then out an RPS muffler at the back. I've been thinking about changing the cobi to another muffler instead of a resonator so i've been looking at those. a couple of questions has anyone used a borla, vortex or a flowmaster muffler on an RB before? is there any reason why you wouldn't use these? n/a vs turbo muffler etc?

might do this course. http://www.learntotune.com/

i'm keen to make this my hobby so don't want to rent anything....or blow anything up.

cool thanks for all your inputs appreciate it. Given this i think i'll save my money and get the proper innovate kit with the innovate exhaust probe and just run it through boot along the side of the car and in the window. does anyone have any other knockblock recommendation. I've been looking at the link knockblock....they are about $800

Hello again, I'm wondering what is required to fit a wideband o2 sensor in place of the factory narrow band? i have a powerfc... if this is not the ideal location for a wide band...what is? thoughts? i'm tossing up buying an innovate wideband kit but trying to decide between a permanent install with gauge and input into the fc datalogit or..just go for one that i can move between cars with.

Thats where my confusion lay...i thought it must've been a turbo i hadn't heard about...i'm so glad there are such good knowledgable trolls on this forum.

excuse my ignorance...but can you clarify what a t2 is? i was thinking its the one smaller than a t3?

i'd think thats not possible. t2? what sort of t2? anymore information? its hard enough making 400bhp with a highflowed t3.....

cool thanks.