Badgaz

won't that just mean it will return more fuel to the tank? doesn't the regulator open above 43.5psi?

wha? its gonna get much louder with more boost by the way...

some water and liquid soap in a spray bottle works mint too.

are you running stupid amounts of rear camber?

he could turn gain down on the boost controller to make it spooler slower couldn't he?

did you use an crc product or wd40 or silicon's or anything around the intake/exhaust manifold...this can take a while to burn off and create's smoke at the same time....the fact its not idling properly is a bit of a worry...check your intake piping for improper connections and or splits in piping etc.

i read from your OP that you have from the down pipe completely off the car....i think we assumed that you weren't going to bolt a straight pipe on.

its just lost a fair bit of back pressure thats all...probably why your idle afr's may have taken a dive...what were they before?....don't cook the underside of your car....or gas yourself out though.

ummm how often are you under your car!

had to double take your avatar superben....got used to seeing the pekachu or whatever it was.

i haven't checked the new plugs yet to see if they are getting a clean burn....it does burble away after its been idling for a while....starts out ok though. i occasionaly run Gull force 10 which is 10 % ethanol 98 octane fuel.

these are denso type I believe. I have the voltage lag times. I don't intend to run e85 yet.

Hi Everyone, i'm trying to figure out how to calculate the optimal cranking time for my 850cc injectors. Since i've changed them i haven't adjusted the settings in my powerfc for the cranking time...which makes its not a quick start on cold start. any help is appreciated. cheers Gaz

run some big zip ties around the middle of the rubber hose to stop it expanding so far....

can't you test them with an oscilliscope?

cool thanks for that. seems odd that apexi put them as two different selections on the powerfc.

a mate of mine did it for me. he used to work at deisel services in auckland rebuilting turbos & injectors. he's moved to australia now. Steve murch can rebuild the factory turbo for around the $1000 mark.

Hi there, i'm trying to identify physically the difference between the bnr32 afm and the bcnr33 afm. i've searched around and can't find it...even using paul's powerfc guide. or are they exactly the same just differing model number? cheers in advance. Gaz

it should be pretty obvious when they don't work....the one we were using that was faulty would only read down to 11's before giving no reading.... you should be running around the low 12's to low 11's on boost....strangely your car is quite like my wife's car...bnr32 with bcnr33 motor.

i'm only getting to load points of 15-16 and i'm keeping within a 7100rpm rev limit...so maybe he does mean to rescale to get greater resolution. On the current turbo i'm at its limits. 16psi.

^^ me too lucky bastard!

the wide band sensors can crap out too not just the gauge. hard call there....if you are worried i'd say stay off boost and you should be ok....but in the end its up to you. I'd re-check your afr's if you can...seems weird you'd be 14's and have fouling plugs...check your breathers and make sure your intake isn't all gummed up with oil vapour residue etc.

my tuner has talked about increasing the resolution of my map, i figure its something to do with this calculation....does that sound right?

don't they have twin turbo's already?

Check out RBparts.co.nz if you haven't already. Candice is a good chick to deal with and they specialize in skyline parts...and they are cheap...picked up my rear genuine strut brace for $50. Parts in Australia will probably be around the same prices.