Badgaz

Check to make sure your plugs get wet on cranking... the injectors if they have been sitting for a while can fowl up....i had this with my 850cc ones.

i'm comparing the link g4+ plugin vs the haltech ps1000 plugin. i didn't think the timing was hugely wrong i just thought the fuel map looked like the tuner was in a hurry.

yeah I only used a baked bean can because it was all I had on hand the time. a proper tool for a proper job is always preferred.

get a baked bean can. disconnect your intake pipe(the one that goes into the front of the turbo to the air flow meter) from the air flow meter and hose clamp the baked bean can into it tightly where the airflow meter used to connect... now unplug your line that goes from your intake pipe to your boost solenoid. grab some other hose that will fit on there and make it fit with some brass fitting or similar to a air compressor tyre pump...good idea to make sure it has a gauge on it. Then put a brick on the gas pedal.....then slowly put air into the intake....don't go too fast....if the pressure is dropping on the gauge quickly then you should hear it hissing.....this will be the first obvious leak....once you've tightened that....then start again....don't go over 1 bar of pressure in the intake otherwise you can risk injuring yourself like i nearly did when i pressurized it up to 2 bar and shot the baked bean can out.....if you don't have and air compressor then use a bike pump....might take longer though

i thought with a restrictor its the same air pressure but at a higher velocity...which gives a greater range for the boost controller to bleed....i have no idea to the science lol.

checked your intercooler piping connections?....

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanicals/48287-restrictor-pill-what-why-you-need.html here is a link to what i think you need....

did you use the start ya bastard to start the car or look for vacuum leaks?

the haltech is about $400 cheaper than the link here. but based on what you say sounds like the difference might be worth it.

good kiwi company. what are the haltech's like? am looking at one for my mates pulsar GTIR.

there are no problems that can't be fixed ...or used as an excuse to upgrade

still think you should try an air restrictor its like a $2 item that could fix it...make it the same size as the intended boost controller size.

i'm thinking of getting that turbo next...but with the bolton flange for factory down pipe.

what turbo and injectors are you running.... couple of degree up top difference between mine and yours.

found this interesting read which helped a bit. http://www.masterenginetuner.com/TUNING__Engine_Knock.html

everyone starts somewhere....just like you did...not sure how you are coming across these are typed words after all. for volumetric efficiency its a calculation between tps and maf voltage right?

umm just curious but why would it being a stock turbo make a difference? unless he's running smic? i would've thought timing and fuel would be his main issue here.

I would certainly not put this tune on your repaired or replaced motor....definately factor in a tune to your fixing equations.

^^agree with superben here....you'll be suprise where air will escape from! mine even had leaks from seemingly good bolt clamps.

thanks for all your advice guys i appreciate it. i just wish dyno's werent so costly to rent.... i'm doing my best to learn to tune on my own car. i'm tuning my wifes GTR next...however thats quite another kettle of fish the factory ECU she has was tuned by Torque performance, i'm going to tune up her powerfc the best i can and then dyno compare both ecu's....its my new hobby and i'm really enjoying it.

it doesn't look like much attention has been given to your fueling on wot either.

^^ what he said

so how do i shorten the ramp rate?

to be honest its been a very long time since i checked it....i will check it that way....i was having trouble with my idle the other day and noticed that the map shows 20 but the actual logged timing was 15 degrees so i just set those first cells to 15 anyway. previously i had just set them to 20. i will definately check it before going on the dyno.

base timing is set to 15 degrees. thats a lot less timing than is used to have...stock they are up around 20 at wot. i hear what you are saying gtsboy.....the knock ears will be a great help..... i think all cars need a happy meter.