Badgaz

lol yeah why not.... "just put the jandle into it and f**k yeah!"

if i'm to guess i'd do a leak down test next....make sure piston seals are good.

16-17psi perhaps its already optimal then....... i'm going to take it to the dyno to do a power run shortly.

whats the optimal AFR up the end of the map? is 12-12.5 still optimal?

i agree, its not accurate but its all i've got at the moment. i'm saving for a knocklink.

as rpm increases the time between spark is reduced...which is why i advance the ignition as the rpm climbs.

no problem just trying to get maximum efficiency. can you not get detonation with too much fuel? conversly with too much ignition? seeing as this is at the high end of the rpm scale i tought perhap a degree more timing might help.....this is where my thinking was going on both.....might have to do what gtsboy suggests

lol...i'm stumped...maybe you've changed your Idle?

couple of questions...i'm sitting here going through some logging i did the other night in my car...here is the scenario and i'm wondering what is the best option...being first time road tuning. on wot i'm running 11.4 afr's in p15 n17 with a knock reading of 18. my question i'm pondering is ....should i pull fuel or add a degree of timing? timing in this cell is 18degrees @6100rpm my mods are in my signature any advice would be great thanks.

did you put a brick on the gas pedal to open the throttle butterfly?

use some CRC or 'start ya bastard' spray to locate the vacumm leak..the idle will change if you hit the leak. spray around the areas where surfaces meet or where gaskets are used....also any vacuum hoses.

82? wow... my sbc is set to 60 for 16psi. the set figure is a ratio 0 being stock and 100 being maximum boost. i have my gain set to 25. 5 is the blitz recommendation for rb26dett.

I'd suggest contacting apexi support and seeing if they can shed any light on it. Otherwise finding someone who can actually check/repair any circuitry that might be wrong with it (not quite so easy)

umm just one thing i had to have on my blitz sbc was a restrictor....if you look at the size of the pipe on the actuators and the size that the boost controller required...then you usually need a restrictor.

i had really bad lifter noise a while back and fixed it with some proma MLB8.

its all good! going R + R is good motivation to get the ECU upgraded.

run any fuel injector cleaner or octane booster or anything like that?

they could probably work together if you can work out what affect having the BeeR take control of ignition away from the powerfc, you'd probably have to set the powerfc fuel cut to be higher than the BeeR one....like a two stage cut i suppose.....

mine use to stall a fair bit too..i run a greedy type rs bov and i've tightened it up a fair bit...before that i had some taiwanese bov and i could watch the piston stay open too long which would cause the car to nearly stall..then pickup again. having the spring pressure set correctly and the right size piping feeding your bov seems to be the right combination...also put zip ties or hose clamps over your airline to you bov.

its on there website.

you have to use a r32 ecu (lose the VCT) or a z32 ecu (keep the VCT) if you can find one of those cheap enough....otherwise just get a powerfc.

have you set your idle correctly? get the car up to temp stop the car...unplug the tps....start the car...turn the idle screw on the aac valve till you have it idling at 750. turn car off...plug the tps back in.....if it still runs like shit after that it could be your tps.

i'm thinking of getting one of these ones, could be a nice option. http://www.adrenalinr.com/productdetail.php?productID=511

i mean that in regards to the OP not the crank collars.

wouldn't it be better to put $ into a decent harmonic balancer?