Brick

We probably should all go remove our front mounts and instead heat up our Intakes for all the powaz

The guy is a mad jibberer. MozzMann strikes again.

There is a few good mods to drop those Temps and keep them more stable. Scottys cooling mod will help with stability, there are thicker core radiator options. And the nismo thermostat. Grab all those and it should drop into the 80s

Yes it is normal

I saw one doing this the other day on the m1, dumb thing was he was doing 90 in the left lane slowing everyone down and forcing slow cars into the right lanes..

Nice ride mate. On the handling front I can't recommend chassis bracing enough. Daleo on here makes a front brace and OX in Japan make a rear bar. Makes a huge difference to the way the car sits thru the corner.

Scotty is the resident expert though and probably worked on more of these m35s than anyone else in the world.

I am not saying I am the resident expert, but I have spent a hell a lot of time and money modding my M35. So I may have a little knowledge. What I do know for a fact is that what you have said in this thread regarding changing viscosity of oil will affect the variable cam as it has a major part to play in the way they work. I also know as dale has said above that the stock turbo is listed as a replacement part for the 100k service as a directive from nissan them self. So unless these cars are only meant to last 100k I am pretty sure they aren't designed to last the life of the vehicle. This along with some of your other comments regarding how the 4wd system works which was very very wrong shows me that you have no idea and should probably learn about what you are talking before going on crazy rants and giving out terrible advice.

Just saw you profile pic. So m35? Could be two issues. The dash lights and rough sounds like water in the battery box. Common issue when the drain bung gets blocked from years of build up

What model stagea?

Pay me the $1000 and I'll drive to Melbourne next week and collect it from Scott and bring it back for you.

Drove behind a tidy Bayside blue c34 around 1130 this morning on parramatta rd.

9 grand would actually be worth thinking about if someone had the spare cash.. would make the car just about perfect.. that's if it includes the gearbox

Is that the actual price? That is cheaper then I expected

The moshimoto is not a stagea dedicated model. It is actually g35 model, hence it needing some trimming to the shroud etc.

As daleo has said you have proven to have no knowledge about this car, your post in this thread plus the other threads you have attempted to display your almighty knowledge apon have shown you may need to sit back and read for a while before trying to hand out your miss informed information

What these aren't just like an rb? Sheeiiitt

Yellow is what I have, they were a nissan factory option that lowered the car 2" from stock. I would say your issue is more the shocks the springs, but if you are doing shocks you may as well do it all.

best ever.

Looks awesome ! still running AWD or just rear wheel drive?

Changed the o2 sensor in the m35 today. For anyone interested you can do this from above. I have included a few pics to show the access, first picture is how it looks from above. Second is with the stupid bracket removed which I should have done straight away. Third is the combination of sockets and extenders I used. 4th picture is for part number reference New sensor was $125 Inc shipping from amayama

One day I would like to do the same

Exactly, old solder in a place with lots of vibration

That is exactly what a dry solder joint is. Just resolder it like Scotty has said and it is fixed.

If you are an electrician you should know better and maybe go back to tafe. . I am an electronic technician by trade so I also know about pcbs etc. Firstly you are correct in saying that it may help, but it won't fix the issue. All it may do is minimize the intermittent issue you are having. That being said if you drive a long a bumpy street you will most likely have signal drop in and out as the joint moves around. Secondly the issue will return quickly. For the cost of a $5 soldering iron why wouldn't you just actually fix it. Thirdly you were recommending people adjust the pots on the pcb. This is the really dumb thing. It is obvious that they would be set to the correct settings from factory. And adjusting them will only make it read incorrect. So opt simply your original recommendation will not fix the problem and then when the person adjusts the pots they will ruin it all together so I stand by what I said in it being the dumbest post ever.